Here we go again on the Tour de Mont Blanc! This was the fourth (and we hoped the final) year that my friend Julia and I were back in the Alps, walking a section of the Tour de Mont Blanc. The TMB is one of the great mountain hikes of the world that takes you over 10-12 days on a circular route around the Mont Blanc Massif through France, Switzerland and Italy.
We’d really enjoyed our walks in previous years, with bright sunny days and glorious mountain views. The final leg in early September would take us from Courmayeur in Italy where we finished last year, around to Les Houches in the Chamonix valley where we started 3 years before.
We had mixed feelings as we set off from our hotel in Courmayeur; excited to be back in the mountains with the forecast for sunshine, combined with relief at knowing that our Tour de Mont Blanc would finally be complete this year.
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Day 1 Courmayeur to Rifugio Elisabetta
The day’s walk took us up out of the Courmayeur valley, up through the pretty hamlet of Dolonne and zig-zagging up through forest on a dry dusty path that finally followed the line of the cable car up the mountain.
After the first cable car station at Plan Checrouit, the vista opened up and forest gave way to open meadow, with a scattering of chalets.
Further up the hill we passed the second cable car station at Col Checrouit and came over the crest to see Refuge Vielle Maison, set in a bowl between one valley and the next, known as the Fauteuil des Allemands (the German armchair).
The path now rose again behind the Refuge until we found ourselves on a long balcony path along the Val Veni with mountain peaks to our right across the valley, rising finally to Mont Favre, the highest point of the day’s walk at 2430m.
From here it was downhill through meadows and beside a rushing stream down to the milky blue Lac Combal and along a flat, marshy valley until finally the path rose again up to Rifugio Elisabetta at 2195m.
Need a guide book for the Tour de Mont Blanc? We recommend the Cicerone Trekking the Tour of Mont Blanc by Kev Reynolds
Highlights of the day
- We enjoyed our night in Courmayeur at the very comfortable and elegant Hotel Villa Novecento, beautifully furnished in traditional Alpine style with plenty of antiques and interesting local objects.
- Seeing what we thought was a helicopter rescue below Plan Checrouit, as mountain rescue teams abseiled down from the helicopter onto the cable cars and then down from there to the path. Although it looked like they could be shooting a James Bond movie we concluded that it was just a practice for the coming winter season.
- A very welcome drink at the jolly Refuge Vielle Maison which appeared suddenly as we came over the crest, like a mirage, with flags flying and cheerful red and yellow sun umbrellas and deck chairs.
- The easy, undulating balcony path of the Val Veni with wonderful views of the mountain peaks and hanging glaciers, where we found a great picnic spot near one of the small green lakes.
- The final walk of the day along a pleasant, flat path through the beautiful but deserted valley of Vallon de la Lee Blanche with streams and lakes running through it but virtually no habitation as we headed for Rifugio Elisabetta.
Lowlights of the day
- Climbing up the dry, dusty path through forest from Dolonne, the reverse of what we had experienced coming down to Courmayeur last year – hours of climbing but only glimpses of mountains through the trees.
- The relentless climb to the high point of Mont Favre at 2430, with endless false crest after false crest to trick you into thinking you’re nearly there. Luckily all the French walkers coming down from the peak were very encouraging and everyone we passed told us “you’re nearly there!”
- The sinking feeling as we reached the valley at Lac Combal at the end of the day and realised we had at least another hour to walk to Rifugio Elisabetta, when we were quite ready to stop for the day and enjoy a cold beer.
- The final climb up to Rifugio Elisabetta at the end of a very long day nearly finished us off and we only arrived just before dinner at 7pm, having been on the path for over 10 hours.
Day 2 Rifugio Elisabetta to Chapieux
The path took us just below Rifugio Elisabetta and past the ruins of the old military barracks. It then followed a level track along the Vallon de la Lée Blanche.
Gradually we climbed uphill past the Casermetta information centre and up to the Col de la Seigne. This yielded fabulous panoramic views at 2500m.
Over the pass we now crossed the border from Italy into France. We descended on endless winding grassy paths to the bottom of the Vallée des Glaciers. Here we stopped for a picnic lunch at Refuge de Mottets.
Now it was across the river, through the hamlet of Ville des Glaciers. Then along the small road above the river for an hour or more until we reached the village of Chapieux at the other end of the valley.
We were thankful that we’d chosen to shorten the route outlined in the guide book. It would have taken us on a further arduous climb up to Refuge Bonhomme. Instead we had a pleasant afternoon sitting in the sunny garden of the Auberge de la Nova, where we spent the night.
I hope you enjoy this short panorama video I made at Col de La Seigne
If you can’t see the video of Col de la Seigne above, view it on my blog here or on YouTube here
Highlights of the day
- The walk from Rifugio Elisabetta took us past the Casermetta information centre. It is housed in the old Italian border post that has now been restored. We loved the view from the balcony with a board naming all the mountain peaks in view. There’s information displays inside about the history, flora and fauna of the area.
- The view from Col de la Seigne at 2500m with panoramic views. Down the valley towards Valon de la Lée Blanche on the Italian side. The end of Vallée des Glaciers in sight on the French side. We sat beside the rocky cairn at the peak in the sunshine and looked at all the peaks marked on the metal viewing table. This Col forms the border between Italy and France. It saw fierce fighting between the Alpiniste troops of both countries during the Second World War. It was wonderful to pass so freely and peacefully from one country to the next.
- A pleasant lunch at the picnic tables outside Refuge de Mottets. We enjoyed a view down the valley while a galloping white horse and farting donkey entertained us with their antics.
Lowlights of the day
- The walk along the quiet road towards Chapieux was pleasant but unremarkable after the high mountain passes we’d come across. There’s a local bus that runs up and down the valley in July and August. It is worth taking to save your legs, unless you’re following the high route directly up towards Refuge de la Croix de Bonhomme.
- All along the Vallee des Glaciers I had no phone signal. Auberge de la Nova had no wifi which as an internet addict I found a little difficult. However, some of you may relish the freedom of being out of touch with the world. As the owner at Auberge de la Nova put it, when I approached hopefully with my iPhone in hand; “No Mobile, no Internet, Juste la Liberté!”
Coming soon.. the next stage of this year’s Tour de Mont Blanc
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Resources for walking the Tour de Mont Blanc
On this part of the Tour de Mont Blanc we stopped at the following hotels and mountain refuges;
In Courmayeur we stayed at Hotel Villa Novecento. This beautifully decorated 4 star hotel features elegant, traditional furnishings and antiques. We paid for an en suite twin room with excellent breakfast and very friendly service.
Rifugio Elisabetta is one of the nicest and best run refuges, in an isolated position at 2200m. It has wifi but limited phone signal. You can pay per night for half board (dinner and breakfast) in a 2 bed private bunk room. Book by e-mail [email protected] or Telephone +39 0165 844080
In Chapieux we stayed at Auberge de la Nova, a friendly inn at one end of the valley at 1550m. They offer private and dorm rooms and a large restaurant and garden. You can purchase a half board (dinner and breakfast) in a 12 person dorm. Book by e-mail [email protected] or Telephone +33 479 89 07 15 or via the TMB website.
Need a guide book for the Tour de Mont Blanc? We recommend the Cicerone Trekking the Tour of Mont Blanc by Kev Reynolds
Mountain clothing
My waterproof North Face jacket and walking trousers and Leki Micro Vario walking poles were provided* by outdoor clothing specialist, Ellis Brigham. They have a wide range of mountain clothing and walking gear you might need for a trek in the mountains. These are available both through their website and UK stores.
My Berghaus Explorer Light Gore-Tex walking boots were provided* by Blacks. They offer online shopping and high street stores in the UK. They specialise in outdoor clothing for walking, hiking and trail-running as well as camping and travel gear.
We used the Cicerone Tour of Mont Blanc guide by Kev Reynolds. It’s an excellent guide for both the clockwise and anti-clockwise route. There’s a detailed route guide, maps, accommodation information and points of interest along the route.
To reach Courmayeur, we flew to Geneva and took our pre-booked airport transfer to Chamonix with Chamexpress, who we recommend for their super-efficient service. In the winter ski season they also operate a direct transfer from Geneva to Courmayeur through AostaExpress, but these do not run in the summer.
From Chamonix SNCF station we took the bus service operated by Altibus for the 45 minute journey through the Mont Blanc Tunnel to Courmayeur. During the summer until the beginning of September there are 6 services per day.. After 1 September there may be less frequent departures, so check the SAT website for details.
Last Year on the Tour de Mont Blanc
Walking the Tour de Mont Blanc – my video diary 2012
Avoiding altitude sickness and staying healthy on the Tour de Mont Blanc
The Tour de Mont Blanc Diaries Day 4 – Rifugio Bonatti to Courmayeur, the Italian stage ends
This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com
Read Next
Read my The Tour de Mont Blanc Diaries – Chapieux to Les Houches
Alexandra Roşu
Friday 15th of November 2013
Oh Maybe you'll go to the Dolomites next next year :) Mallorca is also amazing, it's a great choice! I haven't been there myself, but I have friends who have, and they were thrilled! I hope you have a really great time! :)
Alexandra Roşu
Wednesday 13th of November 2013
Hi Heather! I've come across your TMB videos on vimeo and I was so happy to see some of the places I've seen on the TMB. My husband and I did the Tour of Mont Blanc last year, on our honeymoon. It was so amazing!
If you'd like to see some of my pictures, let me know! I also have a travel blog, but it's in Romanian :)
As for next year, I strongly advise you to go do some hiking in the Dolomites, in Italy! I think they are the most beautiful mountains in Europe, you are going to love them! Let me know if you go, I could help you with tips if you'd like!
Heather Cowper
Wednesday 13th of November 2013
@Alexandra so pleased you enjoyed the videos - I have one more to post from this year's 2013 trip once I get round to editing it. I'd love to try the Dolomites, in fact it was on my short list to go next year with my friend but in the end we have decided on Mallorca as it's a combination of mountains and coastal views, which will be a change.
Mark H
Tuesday 17th of September 2013
Congrats on completing one of the world's greatest hikes. Your articles have bought it to life.
Heather Cowper
Tuesday 17th of September 2013
@Mark Thanks, it was quite a relief to finish after 4 years - now we just need to decide where to go next year
Sand In My Suitcase
Monday 16th of September 2013
Looks like this is quite the hike! And the scenery was probably worth being "disconnected" from the electronic world.
Heather Cowper
Monday 16th of September 2013
@Sand in my suitcase- when you're used to having phone signal at all times it's a bit disconcerting to he totally out if contact in Europe - but I suppose an Internet detox is healthy once in a while.
Lauren Meshkin
Thursday 12th of September 2013
I would really like to participate in the Tour de Mont Blanc in the nearby future! The video and photos are breathtaking. Also, that first hotel looks ideal, and that picnic as well ;) Looking forward to the next post!
Happy travels :)
Heather Cowper
Thursday 12th of September 2013
@Lauren - If we can do it anyone can - you just need to be moderately fit and love the mountains! If you decide to go let me know and I can help you with the planning - it's easy to plan the route & book all the accommodation yourself.