Tour de Mont Blanc – Day 5 – Col de Balme to Champex Lac

We awoke at Refuge Col de Balme to bright sunshine and blue skies, excited to start Day 5 of our hike on the Tour de Mont Blanc. The drama of the previous day’s encounter with a herd of sharp-horned mountain cattle, was all but forgotten. This was our second year of hiking part of the Tour de Mont Blanc, a 170 km circular route that passes through France, Switzerland and Italy.

Read about the previous day’s walk: Tour de Mont Blanc – Day 4 – Flégère to Refuge Col de Balme

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Rather than take the route to Trient as advised by our guidebook, both Monsieur from the Refuge and the other walkers there strongly advised us to take a different route to Col de la Forclaz, which they assured us would be shorter and easier.

We skirted around the edge of the mountain keeping the height, with views onto the rooftops of Trient in the valley below. After a couple of hours we came around the bend and caught sight of the Glacier du Trient in front of us, hanging above the valley.

Crossing into Switzerland

From here the path ran downhill, past another small refuge where the Swiss flag was flying, to confirm that we had crossed the border into Switzerland. It was tempting to lie in the sun or buy a drink on the terrace. But with long walk ahead to reach Champex, we pressed on, deciding to stop once we reached the valley.

The path zig-zagged downhill through the forest, beneath a cliff of rock where there were chains attached to the rock to help us get down safely. The sound of rushing water reached us from the valley bottom. As we descended, we could also see the cafe beside the river, which we assumed would be the hotel at Col de la Forclaz.

Arriving at Chalet du Glacier

We had already been walking for 3 hours, but I was slightly suspicious that I could not see the road marked on the map.

On reaching the river we crossed the bridge and consulting the map again I realised that we were at Chalet du Glacier. The sign indicated a further 50 mins walk to Col de la Forclaz.

My friend was suffering from the altitude and finding the going tough. So we collapsed in the shade by the cafe with a cool drink to assess our options.

Options to reach Champex

As it was nearly 2pm we realised that a further 5 hours walk to Champex would be impossible and that our best option was to get to Champex by public transport.

After a picnic lunch we set off in the direction of Col de la Forclaz along the flat path, with Sunday afternoon walkers passing us, heading for the picnic spot beside the river that we had just left.

On reaching the bar beside the busy main road at Col de la Forclaz, we consulted the bus timetable and established that the next bus to the rail station at Martigny would not pass by until 6pm, which would be too late to make our connections to Champex.

We enquired at the hotel but were told that a taxi to Martigny would cost us 75 Swiss Francs, so we decided that there was nothing for it but to hitch a lift to Martigny.

Hitching a lift to Champex

This was a completely alien concept to me, never having hitch hiked in my life. However, my friend was an old hand from her student days.

We stood at the edge the car park, while my friend confidently stuck out her thumb at any likely cars. I tried to fade into the background from embarrassment.

Within a few minutes a car pulled over, a Frenchman with his two teenage daughters in the car. As my friend asked him if he might give us a lift to Martigny, he looked rather taken aback. I wondered afterwards whether he had just pulled over to take a photo of the view.

Fortunately he agreed to give us a lift. On the way we chatted amiably to him and his daughters about their visits to their family in the area. The father had spent some time in Norwich as a student to improve his English.

After being dropped at Martigny station we joined the very efficient Swiss transport system. Two changes later, by train and then bus, we reached Champex Lac at 7pm. This was probably not much earlier than if we had walked it, but a lot more relaxed.

Staying at Chalet Bon Abri in Champex Lac

It was a relief to arrive at Chalet Bon Abri, where our first sight was of a tipi in the flower-filled garden. A couple of campers were playing table tennis on the outdoor table. As soon as we entered, we realised that this was a very different proposition to the basic facilities at Refuge Col de Balme from the night before.

Read my reflections on the different experiences we had in refuges on the Tour de Mont Blanc: A tale of two refuges on the Tour de Mont Blanc

We found ourselves in a traditionally built Swiss chalet that felt modern and stylish. There was a dining room and bar at the front.

The reception was around the back, where we could take off our rucksacks and boots. We put on the plastic clogs provided and left our boots in the basement.

Madame showed us to our dorm room with cheerful red checked duvets. As dinner was about to be served we went down straight away for homemade soup and chicken in a wine sauce. We examined the map and planned next year’s leg to continue on the Tour de Mont Blanc to Courmayeur.

Relaxing at Champex Lac

The next morning we took a short walk around the lake at Champex and chilled out in a cafe. Soon it was time to take the bus and train back to Chamonix where we had started 3 days before.

This small resort town was altogether more tame than the high mountain paths we had been on. Most of the visitors appeared to be retirees taking the mountain air without any strenuous exertion.

The lesson we had learned was that next year each day’s walk would need to be shorter. We’d need plenty of time for resting our legs and admiring the mountain scenery.

However efficient the public transport system, we would much rather be high in the mountains. With views of glaciers and toy-town villages in the valley, it was easy to kid ourselves that we were real Tour de Mont Blanc walkers!

Watch my Tour de Mont Blanc Video

This video from our second year of walking on the Tour de Mont Blanc covers Days 4 and 5 of the walk.

Click here to get the FREE Tour de Mont Blanc Packing guide

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Resources for walking the Tour de Mont Blanc

We used the Cicerone Tour of Mont Blanc guide by Kev Reynolds. It’s an excellent guide for both the clockwise and anti-clockwise route. There’s a detailed route guide, maps, accommodation information and points of interest along the route.

Before starting our walk, we stayed in Les Houches, a village in the Chamonix Valley – check out all the hotel options here. Les Houches is well placed for summer walking opposite the start of the anti-clockwise TMB route.

At the end of this day’s walk, we stayed at Gite Bon Abri in Champex Lac, which we highly recommend. They offer private rooms and 6 bed dorm rooms with dinner and breakfast.

Gire Bon Abri and some other refuges can be booked on the Mon Tour de Mont Blanc website. To avoid disappointment and a long walk, you should book your place in all refuges. You can normally do so a day or two before, or from the previous refuge.

We booked our transfer from Geneva airport to Les Houches through Alpy Transfers. They run an efficient airport to hotel service.

The Autour du Mont Blanc website has useful information to help you plan and prepare for your Tour de Mont Blanc walk.

Read Next

Read about my next day’s walk: Tour de Mont Blanc Day 6 – Champex Lac to Ferret

More Tour de Mont Blanc Tales

• Tour de Mont Blanc Day 1 – Les Houches to Refuge la Bellachat
• Tour de Mont Blanc Day 2 – Refuge de Bellachat to la Flegere
• Tour de Mont Blanc Day 3 – Refuge Flégère to Lac Blanc
• Tour de Mont Blanc Day 4 – Flégère to Refuge Col de Balme
• Tour de Mont Blanc Day 5 – This article
• Tour de Mont Blanc Day 6 – Champex Lac to Ferret
• Tour de Mont Blanc Day 7 – Ferret to Rifugio Elena
• Tour de Mont Blanc Day 8 – Rifugio Elena to Rifugio Bonatti
• A Tale of Two Refuges – on the Tour de Mont Blanc

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com

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