We started Day 4 on the Tour de Mont Blanc (and the first walk of this year) at the spot where we had come down from the mountain last year: the top of the Flégère chair lift above Chamonix. Last year we had descended in brilliant sunshine but now there was a light drizzle that we hoped would soon pass.
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We’d already persuaded a passing stranger at the bus stop in Chamonix to take our ‘before’ photo looking fresh and keen. At the top of the Flégère chair lift we posed again for photos to mark the start of our three days in the mountains.
This was our second year hiking on the Tour de Mont Blanc, which I undertook over four years with a friend. As we were both working, we only had a few days to spare each year for our walks. But we proved that long and arduous trails like the TMB can be possible for the average walker, if you break them into smaller stages.
Read about the previous section on the TMB Trail: Tour de Mont Blanc Day 3 – Refuge Flégère to Lac Blanc
Leaving Flégère – a damp start
We skirted the hillside, the weather getting increasingly misty as we climbed until we met an impressive cascade of waterfalls with a few wooden bridges to cross. My friend was ahead of me, making good time as I stopped to take photos and a bit of video, so I had to run a bit to catch up with her.
By the time we reached a cairn and small hut which marked a crossing of ways, she had sensibly put on her waterproof trousers. I was still resisting, hoping that the rain might pass over.
At this point a decision was to be made over the route. Either to take a more direct path which would descend a series of ladders down sheer rock faces. Or take a longer route that skirted further up the mountain to bring us down at the bottom of the ladders.
With the rain showing no sign of abating we decided that wet and slippery ladders were too much of a risk and continued onwards and upwards.
The trail from Flégère to Tré le Champ
Our choice of route was still challenging. It took us up to 2000 metres then steeply down through rocky terrain, clambering over rocks, that was hard on the knees. Then a steep descent on easier paths where we could look down on a busy road below with toy cars passing along the valley.
We wished we did not have to descend again, only to lose the height that we had punished our legs to gain.
On reaching the road we passed the information centre for the Aiguilles Rouges Nature Reserve and walked a little further down the path into the pretty hamlet of Tré le Champ.
Here was a charming Alpine scene, with brightly coloured geraniums at every window and neatly stacked wood piles waiting for winter fires.
The Auberge at Tré le Champ
We stopped for lunch at the Auberge la Boerne, which offered accommodation for walkers. It felt so civilised we rather wished that we could be staying the night here.
I ordered a warm slice of quiche with salad, while my friend tried the Tarte aux Mytilles washed down by a cup of strong black coffee. Not being used to the French style she had to go back to ask for a “grande café aux lait’ to get something more suited to English tastes.
After lunch we walked out of the gate of the Auberge, past some small tents pitched on grassy terraces beside the stream. The path took us up through the forest, past a couple of old houses and a small chapel. By now the rain had cleared and we were enjoying some sunshine in between the clouds.
We climbed up again, regaining height. After 45 minutes the trees started to thin out and we could see something of the view.
My friend had not been feeling great as we climbed up throughout the morning. She was fine over lunch, but now climbing up again she was finding the going tough. We concluded that the altitude might be affecting her.
Continuing, we soon reached a sign, marking a further 1.5 hrs of walking. It pointed us to the highest point of our walk that day at 2200 metres, the Aiguillette du Possette.
The climb to Aiguillette du Possette
The climb was steady, then once the Aiguillette came in sight, the path climbed higher and higher in front of us. Just as I reached what seemed like the top, another crest and yet another would appear.
Finally I reached the final crest and waited for my friend. She was having to walk at a painfully slow pace but was still managing to keep going.
At the top we celebrated the long and difficult climb with some photos. We took some time to drink in the views in all directions with a look down to villages in the valleys on both sides of the crest.
Views of Lac d’Emosson
Ahead of us and to the left we could see the blue water of the reservoir, Lac d’Emosson hanging above the valley. An enormous dam prevented the water from spilling down the mountain and cascading into the valley.
I reflected how scared I would be to live in one of those houses immediately below the reservoir, in case one day the dam burst and washed me away.
We now descended gently along a ridge past small pools reflecting the sky. In some the water was crystal clear and while others were filled with weed.
Below us was an undulating meadow with numerous ski pylons, which would become a ski piste in winter. It was around 6.30pm when we reached the bottom of the meadow. The clouds were starting to close in, blown by the wind along the crests of the mountains.
Approaching Refuge Col de Balme
The sign now indicated a further hour’s climb along an easy path up to Refuge Col de Balme where we had booked to stay that night.
My friend was by now on her last reserves of energy, just about able to put one foot in front of the other. If only we could just reach the Refuge before the mist and cloud turned to darkness.
As we turned a corner we faced another delay. A herd of large cattle with sharp horns and alpine bells clanging barred our path. They were going one way and we the other and somehow we would have to pass each other.
I was relaxed but my friend was terrified. She told me later that she had once been chased by a herd of cows as a young girl. We moved off the path and gradually the cattle moved past in pairs, bells clanging loudly.
Finally at nearly 8pm we rounded the mountain and Refuge Col de Balme loomed out of the mist. What a relief – it had been a long day!
Read about our next day’s walk in which we crossed the border with Switzerland and ended in Champex: Tour de Mont Blanc – Day 5 – Col de Balme to Champex
Watch my Tour de Mont Blanc Video
This video from our second year of walking on the Tour de Mont Blanc covers Days 4 and 5 of the walk.
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Resources for walking the Tour de Mont Blanc
We used the Cicerone Tour of Mont Blanc guide by Kev Reynolds. It’s an excellent guide for both the clockwise and anti-clockwise route. There’s a detailed route guide, maps, accommodation information and points of interest along the route.
At the start of our walk, we stayed in Chamonix – check out all the hotel options here. Chamonix is a good base for summer walking, with many chair lifts available to take you to the higher mountain paths on the TMB route.
At the end of this day’s walk we stayed at Refuge Col de Balme. The cost included dinner and breakfast in a 6 bed dorm room.
Bookings for some refuges can also be made on the Mon Tour de Mont Blanc website. To avoid disappointment and a long walk, you should book your place in all refuges. You can normally do so a day or two before, or from the previous refuge.
We booked our transfer from Geneva airport to Chamonix through Alpy Transfers. They run an efficient airport to hotel service.
The Autour du Mont Blanc website has useful information to help you plan and prepare for your Tour de Mont Blanc walk.
Need a guide book for the Tour de Mont Blanc? We recommend the Cicerone Trekking the Tour of Mont Blanc by Kev Reynolds
Read Next
Read about our next day’s walk: Tour de Mont Blanc Day 5 – Col de Balme to Champex
More tales from the Tour de Mont Blanc
- Tour de Mont Blanc Day 1 – Les Houches to Refuge la Bellachat
- Tour de Mont Blanc Day 2 – Refuge de Bellachat to la Flegere
- Tour de Mont Blanc Day 3 – Refuge Flégère to Lac Blanc
- Tour de Mont Blanc Day 4 – this article
- Tour de Mont Blanc Day 5 – Col de Balme to Champex
- Tour de Mont Blanc Day 6 – Champex Lac to Ferret
- Tour de Mont Blanc Day 7 – Ferret to Rifugio Elena
- Tour de Mont Blanc Day 8 – Rifugio Elena to Rifugio Bonatti
This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com
The Tour de Mont Blanc Diaries – Champex Lac to Ferret and a walk in the woods_Go Time Travel Blog | Go Time Travel Blog
Saturday 27th of October 2012
[...] building below the path, but thankfully no cows blocking the way as we had experi.... As the forest cleared, we walked down to [...]
The Tour de Mont Blanc Diaries - Champex Lac to Ferret and a walk in the woods | Heather on her travels
Friday 26th of October 2012
[...] cow bells warned us that there was a dairy farm in the building below the path, but thankfully no cows blocking the way as we had experienced last year. As the forest cleared, we walked down to the road at the village of Issert, which was full of [...]
Podcast about the Tour de Mont Blanc | Heather on her travels
Sunday 11th of March 2012
[...] Julia was suffering from altitude sickness and had to go slowly but finally we reached refuge Col de Balme in darkness. At first I could not spot any signs of life, but seeing a car parked there I know there must be someone inside. As I skirted around the refuge, I finally saw an old man through the window who asked what we wanted and finally let us in. Inside a warm stove was burning and we were served an Omlette Jambon with bread and local cheese. After we’d eaten a couple of other Italian men with a teenage boy arrived, but there were no other guests. We all had to sleep in one dorm despite the fact that other rooms were available but Madame told us that they were all shut up. She gave us three blankets between the two of us – giving Julia an extra one as she had not been feeling well. When I asked whether I too might have another blanket she told me it wouldn’t be necessary as with 5 people in a room it would be warm enough. I spent the first half of the night feeling cold and trying to put on extra clothes to keep warm without disturbing the others in the room. After our restless night, we were up at 7.30 and after a breakfast of bread and jam we were on our way again. Read my diary of Day 1 on the Tour de Mont Blanc – Flegere to Col de Balme. [...]
Video diary - Tour de Mont Blanc | Heather on her travels
Tuesday 11th of October 2011
[...] Read my account of Day 1 – Flegere to Col de Balme At the end of our walk in Les Houches [...]
My Tour de Mont Blanc diary Day 2 - Col de Balme to Champex | Heather on her travels
Sunday 11th of September 2011
[...] awoke to bright sunshine and blue skies at Refuge Col de Balme and the dramas of the day before, our exhausting walk and the encounter with a herd of sharp-horned mountain cattle, were all but [...]