Tour de Mont Blanc – Day 4 – Flégère to Refuge Col de Balme

We started Day 4 on the Tour de Mont Blanc (and the first walk of this year) at the spot where we had come down from the mountain last year: the top of the Flégère chair lift above Chamonix. Last year we had descended in brilliant sunshine but now there was a light drizzle that we hoped would soon pass.

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We’d already persuaded a passing stranger at the bus stop in Chamonix to take our ‘before’ photo looking fresh and keen. At the top of the Flégère chair lift we posed again for photos to mark the start of our three days in the mountains.

This was our second year hiking on the Tour de Mont Blanc, which I undertook over four years with a friend. As we were both working, we only had a few days to spare each year for our walks. But we proved that long and arduous trails like the TMB can be possible for the average walker, if you break them into smaller stages.

Read about the previous section on the TMB Trail: Tour de Mont Blanc Day 3 – Refuge Flégère to Lac Blanc

Leaving Flégère – a damp start

We skirted the hillside, the weather getting increasingly misty as we climbed until we met an impressive cascade of waterfalls with a few wooden bridges to cross. My friend was ahead of me, making good time as I stopped to take photos and a bit of video, so I had to run a bit to catch up with her.

By the time we reached a cairn and small hut which marked a crossing of ways, she had sensibly put on her waterproof trousers. I was still resisting, hoping that the rain might pass over.

At this point a decision was to be made over the route. Either to take a more direct path which would descend a series of ladders down sheer rock faces. Or take a longer route that skirted further up the mountain to bring us down at the bottom of the ladders.

With the rain showing no sign of abating we decided that wet and slippery ladders were too much of a risk and continued onwards and upwards.

The trail from Flégère to Tré le Champ

Our choice of route was still challenging. It took us up to 2000 metres then steeply down through rocky terrain, clambering over rocks, that was hard on the knees. Then a steep descent on easier paths where we could look down on a busy road below with toy cars passing along the valley.

We wished we did not have to descend again, only to lose the height that we had punished our legs to gain.

On reaching the road we passed the information centre for the Aiguilles Rouges Nature Reserve and walked a little further down the path into the pretty hamlet of Tré le Champ.

Here was a charming Alpine scene, with brightly coloured geraniums at every window and neatly stacked wood piles waiting for winter fires.

The Auberge at Tré le Champ

We stopped for lunch at the Auberge la Boerne, which offered accommodation for walkers. It felt so civilised we rather wished that we could be staying the night here.

I ordered a warm slice of quiche with salad, while my friend tried the Tarte aux Mytilles washed down by a cup of strong black coffee. Not being used to the French style she had to go back to ask for a “grande café aux lait’ to get something more suited to English tastes.

After lunch we walked out of the gate of the Auberge, past some small tents pitched on grassy terraces beside the stream. The path took us up through the forest, past a couple of old houses and a small chapel. By now the rain had cleared and we were enjoying some sunshine in between the clouds.

We climbed up again, regaining height. After 45 minutes the trees started to thin out and we could see something of the view.

My friend had not been feeling great as we climbed up throughout the morning. She was fine over lunch, but now climbing up again she was finding the going tough. We concluded that the altitude might be affecting her. Read how to avoid altitude sickness on the Tour de Mont Blanc.

Continuing, we soon reached a sign, marking a further 1.5 hrs of walking. It pointed us to the highest point of our walk that day at 2200 metres, the Aiguillette du Possette.

The climb to Aiguillette du Possette

The climb was steady, then once the Aiguillette came in sight, the path climbed higher and higher in front of us. Just as I reached what seemed like the top, another crest and yet another would appear.

Finally I reached the final crest and waited for my friend. She was having to walk at a painfully slow pace but was still managing to keep going.

At the top we celebrated the long and difficult climb with some photos. We took some time to drink in the views in all directions with a look down to villages in the valleys on both sides of the crest.

Views of Lac d’Emosson

Ahead of us and to the left we could see the blue water of the reservoir, Lac d’Emosson hanging above the valley. An enormous dam prevented the water from spilling down the mountain and cascading into the valley.

I reflected how scared I would be to live in one of those houses immediately below the reservoir, in case one day the dam burst and washed me away.

We now descended gently along a ridge past small pools reflecting the sky. In some the water was crystal clear and while others were filled with weed.

Below us was an undulating meadow with numerous ski pylons, which would become a ski piste in winter. It was around 6.30pm when we reached the bottom of the meadow. The clouds were starting to close in, blown by the wind along the crests of the mountains.

Approaching Refuge Col de Balme

The sign now indicated a further hour’s climb along an easy path up to Refuge Col de Balme where we had booked to stay that night.

My friend was by now on her last reserves of energy, just about able to put one foot in front of the other. If only we could just reach the Refuge before the mist and cloud turned to darkness.

As we turned a corner we faced another delay. A herd of large cattle with sharp horns and alpine bells clanging barred our path. They were going one way and we the other and somehow we would have to pass each other.

I was relaxed but my friend was terrified. She told me later that she had once been chased by a herd of cows as a young girl. We moved off the path and gradually the cattle moved past in pairs, bells clanging loudly.

Finally at nearly 8pm we rounded the mountain and Refuge Col de Balme loomed out of the mist. What a relief – it had been a long day!

Read about our next day’s walk in which we crossed the border with Switzerland and ended in Champex: Tour de Mont Blanc – Day 5 – Col de Balme to Champex

Watch my Tour de Mont Blanc Video

This video from our second year of walking on the Tour de Mont Blanc covers Days 4 and 5 of the walk.

Resources for walking the Tour de Mont Blanc

We used the Cicerone Tour of Mont Blanc guide by Kev Reynolds. It’s an excellent guide for both the clockwise and anti-clockwise route. There’s a detailed route guide, maps, accommodation information and points of interest along the route.

At the start of our walk, we stayed in Chamonix – check out all the hotel options here. Chamonix is a good base for summer walking, with many chair lifts available to take you to the higher mountain paths on the TMB route.

At the end of this day’s walk we stayed at Refuge Col de Balme. The cost included dinner and breakfast in a 6 bed dorm room.

Bookings for some refuges can also be made on the Mon Tour de Mont Blanc website. To avoid disappointment and a long walk, you should book your place in all refuges. You can normally do so a day or two before, or from the previous refuge.

We booked our transfer from Geneva airport to Chamonix through Alpy Transfers. They run an efficient airport to hotel service.

The Autour du Mont Blanc website has useful information to help you plan and prepare for your Tour de Mont Blanc walk.

Read Next

Read about our next day’s walk: Tour de Mont Blanc – Day 5 – Col de Balme to Champex

More tales from the Tour de Mont Blanc

• Tour de Mont Blanc – Day 1 – Les Houches to Refuge la Bellachat
• Tour de Mont Blanc – Day 2 – Refuge de Bellachat to la Flegere
• Tour de Mont Blanc – Day 3 – Refuge Flégère to Lac Blanc
• Tour de Mont Blanc – Day 4 – this article
• Tour de Mont Blanc – Day 5 – Col de Balme to Champex
• Tour de Mont Blanc – Day 6 – Champex Lac to Ferret
• Tour de Mont Blanc – Day 7 – Ferret to Rifugio Elena
• Tour de Mont Blanc – Day 8 – Rifugio Elena to Rifugio Bonatti
• Tour de Mont Blanc – Day 9 – Rifugio Bonatti to Courmayeur
• Tour de Mont Blanc – Day 10 & 11 – Courmayeur to Chapieux
• Tour de Mont Blanc – Day 12, 13 & 14 – Chapieux to Les Houches

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com

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