The Cotswolds in winter show a different face of England, with fresh air and countryside walks, gardens that are full of spring promise and cosy places to stay. You’ll find luxury country house hotels, to boutique bed and breakfasts.
For those seeking a taste of the English countryside, there are endless things to do in the Cotswolds. This region in the west of England features rolling hills and honey stone villages, spread over 800 square miles and five counties.
This article may contain affiliate links that provide commission on purchases you make at no extra cost to you. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
We took a romantic short break to explore the southern part of the Cotswolds around Tetbury, Malmsbury and Nailsworth. This is perhaps less well known and not so touristy as the northern Cotswolds where the pretty towns can be packed with coach parties in summer.
This is an area that’s perfect for short breaks in the Cotswolds. Read on to discover what we enjoyed and plan your own mini-tour of the Cotswolds.
Whatley Manor Hotel – 5 star luxury Cotswold Hotel
Our Cotswold break started at the fabulous Whatley Manor Hotel near Malmesbury. This luxurious country house hotel is surrounded by green countryside. The manor house took its current form in the 1930s when an 18th century farmhouse was extended and the ornamental gardens laid out around the house.
Whatley Manor is now owned by a Swiss family. The decor manages to combine the warmth and luxury of an English country manor (rich velvets and open fires) with a pared back elegance that felt quite Alpine (leather and mellow wood) and a hint of the Oriental in the rugs and Chinese vases.
Stay at stylish Whatley Manor Hotel nestled within the picturesque Wiltshire countryside
This 5 star luxury hotel is the kind of place that you could check in on a Friday night and be tempted to stay and relax for your entire weekend in the Cotswolds. There’s the Aquarius spa, Sunday cinema evenings, and 12 acres of garden. The three restaurants are headed up by executive chef Niall Keating, who has gained two Michelin stars for The Dining Room restaurant.
On our arrival in the afternoon, we were shown to our huge suite with views over the gardens. It was one of the 23 rooms that are furnished with a refined elegance of pared back luxury. The beds are like a cloud, with embroidered silk curtains and soft velvet furnishings.
Commitment to sustainability
The hotel’s commitment to sustainability was evident in the wood and marble bathroom. Molton Brown toiletries are supplied in ceramic pots to avoid single use plastics. The tea, coffee, fresh milk and biscuits are presented in glass kilner jars or bottles.
We headed down for drinks and dinner in the drawing room. The wood panelling, open fires and oriental rugs gave a cosy feel.
Groups of chairs and sofas were arranged for guests to gather and enjoy a drink and a chat. There’s a smaller bar adjoining the drawing room, where you can also sit with a cocktail or drink before going into dinner.
Dining options at Whatley Manor
We were dining in Grey’s Brasserie, but took the opportunity to peek into The Green Room. This is a more intimate restaurant, serving small plates that are created by the chef in the open kitchen. There’s a touch of theatre as you sit watching the culinary action at the horseshoe bar.
Grey’s Brasserie where we dined, has a relaxed yet sophisticated feel. The menu of updated classics featured mainly English flavours based on local and seasonal produce.
We shared a starter of smoked salmon on rye bread with dill mayonnaise and pickled cucumber. I followed with a perfectly cooked pan fried cod, with leeks in a white wine cream sauce.
My desert was a frangipane tart with strawberry sorbet. Guy, who has a more of a savoury than sweet tooth, enjoyed the selection of British cheeses with crackers, grapes and pickled walnuts.
For those looking for a truly gourmet experience, there is of course The Dining Room. Executive chef Niall Keating achieved his second Michelin star here in October 2019 and still in his 20s is considered a rising star of the culinary scene.
For breakfast we returned to Grey’s Brasserie where there was an varied selection of fruit, pastries, cereals and juices available. Hot breakfast dishes were also available, such as my favourite eggs royale with soft poached eggs and smoked salmon. Yummy and all so elegant with lovely glassware and elegant china!
The gardens at Whatley Manor
If you get the chance, do spend some time in the gorgeous gardens at Whatley Manor, which are worth a visit in themselves. There’s twelve acres of garden, box hedges, herbaceous borders and tranquil water features.
It’s also worth checking out the events calendar for tours with head gardener Andy Spreadbury. Some events include cookery demonstrations with Michelin star chef, Niall Keating, or herb planting with house florist Emily Hepsworth.
You may also enjoy: A luxury stay in luxury Cotswold Cottages at Bruern Cottages
The Aquarius spa at Whatley Manor
Whatley Manor also has one of the best spas in the Cotswolds. Before breakfast we wafted around the Aquarius Spa, which is a great place to book for a luxurious spa day experience. As hotel guests we padded down from our bedroom in robes and slippers and were able to make use of the indoor hydrotherapy pool with bubbles and water jets.
A relaxing spa break must be one of the most romantic things to do in the Cotswolds. As we swam into the outside pool, the sky was still early morning pink and the air fresh on our faces as we enjoyed the warm water.
At the spa entrance there’s a display of the products for purchase, from Natura Bissé and Gaia who use plant extracts and aromatic oils in their products. The waft of fragrance coming from the sample of their oil under a glass dome was divine!
If you want to combine your spa visit with a fresh juice or a light lunch, you can adjourn in your robe to the spa lounge overlooking the hydrotherapy pool. It would have been sublimely relaxing to unwind on those heated stone recliners or get steamy in the sauna. However, we were keen to get out and explore all that the Cotswolds has to offer.
Website: Whatley Manor Website | Easton Grey, Malmsbury, Wiltshire, SN16 ORB | More hotels in the Cotswolds
Painswick Rococo Garden in the Cotswolds
After our all too short stay at Whatley Manor, we drove to Painswick Rococo Garden on the western edge of the Cotswolds, near Stroud. I’d heard a lot about this garden which is something different to the typical English garden of blowsy blooms and overflowing borders.
Instead, this is a reconstruction of a romantic 18th century Baroque garden. It was intended as an outdoor pleasure ground, for the entertainment of guests at Painswick House. It’s definitely one of the places to visit in the Cotswolds that’s a little unusual and unique.
Within the hidden valley, surrounded by woodland there’s an air of formality, with lawns, box hedges and parterres. Punctuated by follies and pavilions where you might arrange a secret tryst with a lover or survey the gardens from an elevated viewpoint.
Painswick Rococo Gardens were restored in the 1980s, based on an 18th century painting of the original gardens. They are worth a visit at any time of year.
In January when we were there, we were treated to the famous snowdrops that clothe the garden slopes and woodland floor. Scattered throughout the garden are romantic pavilions with seats modelled on Greek temples. At the top of the garden, the gothic Exedra which is a crown like structure provides a decorative focus for the garden.
Snowdrops in the Cotswolds at Painswick Rococo garden
Wandering past the fish pond at the bottom of the garden we entered the woodland area. In January it’s covered with swathes of snowdrops, their delicate white bells gently shuddering in any hint of breeze.
The clumps of snowdrops pushing their fine green leaves through the carpet of leaves seem to herald the hope of coming spring. They sit beautifully among the slender trunks of trees that rise up above them.
It’s such a romantic place to walk among the snowdrops on a bright winter day. Make sure you are suitably booted with wellies or hiking boots, as the paths through the woodland can be muddy. It this time of year, with the snowdrops in full bloom, this must be one of the best places to visit in the Cotswolds for winter displays.
Read more: 15 things to do in Stroud in just one day
After visiting the garden, we warmed up in the cheerful garden cafe. I enjoyed a tasty bowl of red pepper and tomato soup of the day, with a crusty wholemeal roll.
Website: Painswick Rococo Garden | Open daily mid Jan- end November from 10.30am | Adult tickets £9 | Address Painswick, Gloucestershire, GL6 6TH
Woodchester Valley Vineyard – wine tasting in the Cotswolds
After lunch, we continued to nearby Woodchester Valley Vineyard just south of Stroud. This relatively new vineyard and winery has been winning awards for its white and sparkling wine.
Established in 2016, the winery is proof that you don’t need to be established for centuries to make excellent English wines. We gathered in the winery’s traditionally built tasting barn, where they hold regular wine tasting tours throughout the year. A £25 a head fee enables you to taste five wines including a sparkling wine.
Once settled with a wine glass in hand, our guide Ben ran us through an introduction to the vineyard. The winery is well suited to producing cold climate wines. It’s especially good for white, rosé and sparkling wines, as well as a few red wines which are produced in warmer years.
We walked through the vineyard slopes (quite briskly since it was starting to rain) and saw how the grapes are trained to wires. They are hand picked at harvest time due to the slope of the three different sites where the grapes are grown.
As we passed through the winery, Ben explained the wine making process. He pointed out the huge stainless steel vats and the French oak barrels, used to add a more complex flavour to some of the wines.
The white wines such as Bacchus, Culver Hill and Pinot Rose that we tasted were fresh and aromatic. Their flavours of apple, gooseberry and elderflower work well with seafood, vegetarian or lighter meat dishes.
Accommodation among the vineyard
Do you want to enjoy all those lovely wines without concerns about driving? You’ll be pleased to know that Woodchester Valley winery also offers a range of accommodation among the vineyards.
They offer en suite guest rooms that are ideal for couples, to holiday houses sleeping from 4-12 people. You could even combine wine tasting and an overnight stay here with walking on the Cotswold Way that runs close to the Vineyard.
Website: Woodchester Valley Vineyard | Tours run throughout the year 4-5 times per week, reserve in advance for the Classic tour £15 per person, Sparkling wine tour £20 |Address: Convent Lane, Woodchester, Stroud, GL5 5HR | Places to stay in the Cotswolds
Forthay Bed and Breakfast – a luxurious Cotswolds bed and breakfast
After winding our way through narrow Cotswolds lanes (beware the sat nav which may take you on the most direct but not the easiest route) we arrived at Forthay Bed and Breakfast. This lovely Cotswold farmhouse started as a B&B around a year ago, offering three luxurious and comfortable bedrooms.
Parts of this honey stone farmhouse date back to the 17th century. You can still see the bread oven that was used to bake bread for the whole village. The owners Charles and Debs are extremely welcoming.
They have gone to great trouble to furnish their boutique Cotswolds bed and breakfast with family heirlooms and antique furniture. Everything such as mattresses, bedlinen and toiletries are of the highest quality.
One of the best things about staying in a top quality Cotswold bed and breakfast such as this, is a homely feeling of staying with friend. There’s the quirky charm of old beams, winding staircases and individual artworks that reflect the owner’s tastes.
Stay at the luxurious boutique Forthay Bed & Breakfast set amidst the Cotswold countryside
Each of the three guest bedrooms at the Forthay Bed & Breakfast has its own adjoining high quality bathroom, decorated in the English style, full of marble and nice toiletries. Downstairs, the snug lived up to its name. The drawing room is for the use of guests with comfy sofas, fresh flowers, books to browse. There’s a cosy wood burning stove in the inglenook fireplace.
A traditional English breakfast
In the morning we took breakfast in the dining room sitting at the polished wood table. We were surrounded by antiques and old family portraits with another wood burning stove in the fireplace.
This is your chance to try the famous cooked English breakfast of bacon, eggs and all the trimmings which will be cooked to your request. I enjoyed my veggie version with eggs from the Forthay chickens, along with hot toast with marmalade and some muesli, yoghurt and coffee.
Although we had arrived to the Forthay Bed & Breakfast in darkness, in the morning we could see the beautiful countryside setting in the midst of fields. We saw the working farm behind, and views of the Tyndale monument on the hill.
This would be a romantic place to base yourself for a day or two. Play a game of croquet on the lawn in summer, perhaps walk up to the monument and follow the Cotswold Way along the edge of the escarpment with views across the Severn Vale to Wales.
Forthay Bed and Breakfast is becoming a popular place to stay for wedding guests and bridal parties who are getting married at some of the nearby wedding venues.
Dog owners will also be welcome as Charles and Debs have three dogs of their own. They’ve even installed a heated dog shower and will dog-sit by pre-arrangement, to allow you to go out in the evening. Although evening meals are not available here, there are two pubs that serve food within walking distance of Forthay Bed and Breakfast. Check out The Black Horse and The New Inn.
Website: Forthay Bed and Breakfast | Address: Forthay, North Nibley, Dursley, Gloucestershire, GL11 6EA | More places to stay in the Cotswolds
Thornbury Castle for dinner in a Tudor Castle
While staying at Forthay Bed and Breakfast, we drove for dinner that evening at the lovely Thornbury Castle, a luxury hotel with excellent restaurant. Here you could dream of being a Tudor lord or lady.
The fortified 16th century manor house really does have the look of a castle, with towers and turrets, surrounded by landscaped gardens and a croquet lawn. King Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn stayed here for ten days on their honeymoon tour in 1535. The castle remained Royal property under the ownership of Queen Mary I.
After dark the hotel courtyards are lit up by coloured lights. We were greeted on arrival by a suit of armour in the doorway. We were shown into the wood panelled Tudor hall, where we ordered pre-dinner drinks.
The hall, where no doubt the lord and his household would have eaten, is now filled with comfortable velvet sofas arranged around the stone fireplace decorated with heraldic emblems.
Stay at historic Thornbury Castle where King Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn once slept
Dining at Thornbury Castle
The restaurant is arranged in two smaller rooms and we were seated by the fire, to order. The menu seems to draw inspiration from both French and English cuisine. Use of excellent local produce is in evidence, with Gloucestershire pork and beef. Also, trout from the chalk streams of the South West and halibut from the coastal waters of Devon and Cornwall.
We shared a starter of Gloucestershire beef served pink and meltingly tender with a delicate garnish of watercress and salsify. For my main course I ordered a delicious fillet of John Dory with artichoke, leek and sorrel garnished with clams and mussels.
My dessert was a caramel parfait with poached rhubarb, a fruit (or is it vegetable?) I love to try rhubarb as soon as I see it on spring menus as it’s such an English flavour.
We could see why Thornbury Castle is such a popular wedding venue. It’s the perfect place for a special occasion lunch, dinner or afternoon tea, perhaps combined with a walk around the gardens. Dining here really was a memorable experience, with the Tudor heritage, royal connections and fine dining using the best of English produce.
Website: Thornbury Castle Hotel and Restaurant | Dinner menu: 2 courses £42, 3 courses £50 plus drinks | Address: Castle Street, Thornbury, Gloucestershire, BS35 1HH | More places to stay in The Cotswolds
Westonbirt Arboretum
On our second day exploring the southern Cotswolds, we spent the morning exploring Westonbirt Arboretum. I’d visited not so long ago for the Enchanted Christmas trail through the woodland.
On a bright, crisp day it was (literally) a breath of fresh air. I decided to explore the Silkwood Trail, heading left from the visitor centre across the STIHL Treetop walkway.
This 300 metre wooden walkway winds through the tree canopy, with views through the treetops and the woodland paths below. We could also look down on the Westonbirt Woodworks, a yard with several timber framed barns. Visitors can watch craftsmen at work on traditional wood crafts, using woods that have fallen or been felled at Westonbirt.
You may also enjoy: 10 things to do in Cheltenham in just one day
Along the way, I stopped to read a few of the interpretive panels which brought to life the richness of life in the trees. Did you know that every year trees produce many more buds than they need that may lie dormant as an insurance policy against bad weather? Or, that tree roots are relatively shallow but may extend outward twice the height of the tree?
At the end of the walkway I followed the seasonal winter trail through Silkwood, past wooden sculptures made from fallen trees. Children’s play areas of tree trunks rested on a soft beds of leaves, just waiting to be climbed and walked along.
Silk Wood Barn shelter
We passed the Silk Wood Barn, an open timber shelter for outdoor picnics. Each pillar is carved with words describing wood: adaptable, tolerant, sensuous, forgiving, graceful, dependable, eternal.
In the clearing was another wooden sculpture of a wolf, a playful interpretation of the children’s game “What’s the time Mr Wolf?” and beside the path, the gruffalo sculpture that is part of a family trail through the wood.
Read more: Spectacular autumn colour at Westonbirt Arboretum
Following the winter trail map I’d been given at the entrance, I circled back to the Cafe and learning centre. I passed the cute cottage beside the tree nursery where the trees of the future are being grown. Here you can learn about all the exotic trees that were brought to England by plant collectors over the centuries.
I also recommend that on arrival you ask at the visitor centre for one of their WOW maps. The Window on Westonbirt guides are produced each week and help you find any trees and shrubs of seasonal interest.
It was with the help of the WOW map that I found the beautiful pink Rhododendron “Christmas Cheer.” This early flowering variety was in full bloom behind the Westonbirt café.
Website: Westonbirt Arboretum | Open daily 9am – 4pm | Adults £10 (Reduced in low season) | Address: Westonbirt, Gloucestershire, GL8 8QS | Places to stay in The Cotswolds
Visit the Market town of “Royal” Tetbury
Our final stop of the day before heading home to Bristol was in “Royal” Tetbury. This pretty market town was given its title because it’s so close to Highgrove, the home of HRH Prince Charles and the Duchess of Cornwall.
There are only a couple of main streets, lined with honey stone merchant’s houses that are now filled with antique shops. If you are furnishing a home or just love looking at beautiful old things, Tetbury will be heaven. You can browse the antique shops that each specialise in a different style or period.
You may also enjoy: A weekend in Oxford – our 48 hour itinerary
Look out for the fine 17th century Market House in the centre of town. There’s a store room upstairs and space for market stalls under the covered area below.
You might also like to walk past the pretty weaver’s cottages on the cobbled lane of Chipping Steps. Pop into the Highgrove shop that sells Royal themed gifts inspired by the Highgrove gardens and estate owned by the Prince of Wales.
Need somewhere to stay? Check out these hotels in Tetbury
Although our tour of the Southern Cotswolds was just a couple of days, there’s so much more to see. Rolling hills and walking routes, historic country houses and gardens and cosy pubs to sit with a drink by the roaring fire.
It’s a great time to visit in winter and spring, to enjoy this most picturesque of English regions. You’ll avoid the crowds that seem to descend in summer and get a more authentic feel for the charming Cotswolds.
Plan your trip to the Cotswolds
Find more information to plan your trip on the Cotswolds Tourism Website and also follow them on social media: Twitter | Instagram | Facebook
Need a guide book for the Cotswolds? We recommend The Rough Guide to the Cotswolds
Check out more ideas for luxurious Cotswold breaks and UK getaways from 101 UK Holidays
If you are looking for a guidebook to plan your visit to the Cotswolds, we recommend; The Rough Guide to the Cotswolds
Tours of the Cotswolds
If you don’t want to travel by car or only have a short time available, check out these day tours that will enable you to get a taste of The Cotswolds;
Explore some of the Cotswolds towns and village from Oxford on this small group tour
Explore the Cotswolds from London, with lunch in a country pub and a visit to Blenheim Palace
How to get to the Cotswolds
As much of the Cotswolds is quite rural, we recommend that you use a car to get around and make the most of your short break.
Train: If visiting from other parts of the UK, you can also easily reach the Cotswolds by train from London, Bristol, Wales and the Midlands. The largest Cotswold towns are Cheltenham and Cirencester, although trains stop at many smaller stations.
Walking: There are some excellent walking routes in the Cotswolds including the long distance Cotswolds Way, which can be walked in sections. If you enjoy walking and hiking, why not travel by train and then walk between some of the places we visited on the Cotswold Way or other walking routes.
Airports: If flying in from abroad, you could arrive via London Heathrow or Bristol airport and then travel by train, coach or hire car.
Where to stay in the Cotswolds
We can recommend the following where we stayed or passed by on this trip, or look at all the hotels in the Cotswolds
Whatley Manor – a 5 star luxury country house hotel with spa and Michelin star restaurant
Forthay Bed and Breakfast – a boutique bed and breakfast in a charming 17th century farmhouse
Thornbury Castle – a Tudor Castle turned luxury hotel where you can stay in the same bedroom used by King Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn on their honeymoon
Woodchester Valley Winery – stay in en suite guest bedrooms or their holiday homes sleeping 4 and 12 people
Map of the Cotswolds
Use the map of romantic things to do in the Cotswolds to plan your own holiday.
Pin it
This article was sponsored* by Cotswolds Tourism who arranged the hotel stays and experiences mentioned.
* More info on my policies page
This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com
Click to subscribe to our monthly newsletter, news and reader offers
Butch Taylor
Thursday 9th of April 2020
Someday I will see it and the rest of England
Stuart Forster
Wednesday 12th of February 2020
It looks a lovely place to spend a relaxing few days. The food you were served looks very appealing!
Heather Cowper
Thursday 27th of February 2020
@Stuart Thanks, we had a great time!
Hels
Wednesday 5th of February 2020
How delightful to have small pavilions across the gardens, seats modelled on Greek temples and, most surprisingly, the gothic Exedra. The gardens are beautiful themselves, but the extra decorative elements make this even more special.
Heather Cowper
Wednesday 5th of February 2020
@Hels - It was an interesting garden as quite a different style to the 19th century garden style of herbaceous borders that is more usual in the Cotswolds.