It’s probably a bit of a joke to talk about all the things to do in Paxos, the smallest of the Ionian islands in Greece. The joke is that most people come to Paxos to do absolutely nothing. Like the nothing of enjoying the view, swimming in the crystal turquoise sea, eating great food and hanging out with friends and family.
Above all Paxos is a place to relax. I came here to stay in the amazingly luxurious Villa Glaros, but should you want to stir yourself from your sunbed on the terrace, here are a few things to see in Paxos that we enjoyed.
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1. Along the Gaios waterfront
Your first stop when you arrive in Paxos is likely to be Gaios, the island’s capital. It’s a pretty town on the sheltered eastern side of the island that’s protected by two large islands of Agios Nikolaos and Panagia.
The channel between them makes an extended waterfront for yachts to moor up. You can get a great view, looking down the channel towards the town from the viewpoint on the road from the New Port where the ferries arrive.
If you arrive by ferry and don’t have transport, there is also the option of the pleasant 15 minute walk along that channel. It could take a lot longer if you enjoy looking at all the boats, from the colourful traditional fishing boats to the sleek modern yachts!
The waterfront stretches quite a long way and makes a great walk lined with bars and restaurants.
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2. Wander around Gaios streets
One of the charms of Gaios is wandering around the narrow streets and soaking up the atmosphere. The heart of the town is pedestrianised with plenty of pavement cafes and restaurants. Pretty bougainvillea filled views are available whenever you turn a corner or walk through an archway.
The small folk museum on the harbour front is housed in an old school building. It contains artefacts found on Paxos and rooms furnished in local style, showing costumes and furniture. Apart from that you might come across the pretty bell tower and archway of the church of Agia Triada and explore the local neighbourhoods for some great photographs.
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3. Gaios – Analipsi church and main square
Most of the action in Gaios centres around the main square. This is where you’ll find the much photographed Analipsi Church, painted in terracotta with an imposing bell tower. It’s surrounded by cafes and restaurants, and this is the hot location to watch the world go by from one of the cafe terraces.
The church was closed when I passed, as Greek churches tend to be shut except when there’s a service. But if you are there on a Sunday it would be well worth a look inside. The square looks out onto the busiest part of the harbour where many of the island tour boats start. It’s a good place to enquire about boat trips at the agencies around the square.
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4. The statue of Georgios Anemogiannis in Gaios
If you wander along the harbour front you’ll soon spot the statue of Georgios Anemogiannis who stands with his back to the sea. He was born in Paxos and became a hero of the Greek war of independence against the Ottoman Empire in 1821.
At the age of 23 he was skipper of a fire ship that attacked the Ottoman ships. During the attack he was captured at Lepanto and later executed. The statue in his birthplace of Paxos showing him with torch in his raised hand, was put up in 1966, and welcomes the yachts as they come into the sheltered harbour of Gaios.
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5. Shopping in Gaios, Paxos
There are plenty of small souvenir shops and galleries down the side streets in Gaios, where you’ll find pretty things to take home as a souvenir of your holiday. I popped into the glass gallery where the owner makes colourful stained glass objects all winter to sell in the summer months. We collect fridge magnets on our travels so I bought one of those to bring home.
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I also found plenty of pretty designer accessories at the Koo Concept Store on the waterfront. Bags, swimwear and sunglasses are displayed downstairs with clothing upstairs, all featuring the work of Greek designers.
There are lots more shops and galleries to explore where you can discover pretty things in Gaios. They tend to be a bit more upmarket, to cater for the yacht and villa crowd that come to Paxos.
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6. Where to eat in Gaios, Paxos
There are no shortage of places to eat in Gaios, especially on the main square and along the waterfront. We had a great dinner at Carnayo, a taverna that’s set a few blocks back from the water as you head out of town. There’s a cosy restaurant interior for cooler evenings and plenty of terrace space outside for hot summer nights.
The restaurant is run by chef owner Spyros Tranakas, a Paxos local who trained in Germany and offers a contemporary twist on local Greek dishes. I loved the way that the traditional stone has been used around the courtyard which offered a very pretty setting for dinner.
On a Friday night we tried the Greek tasting buffet, which is a great option if you want to get to know some of the local dishes and taste lots of different flavours. I’m greedy and always look with envy what anyone else is eating, so this was the perfect way of eating for me!
Buffet style service
We were invited into the kitchen to serve ourselves buffet style from a range of salad plates and some hot vegetable dishes, each carefully labelled with the name of the dish. Outside, the BBQ meats were roasting on a spit and we were served slices of roasted chicken, lamb or pork with the hot side dishes in the kitchen.
There were deserts too, like the Loukoumades, tiny deep fried doughnuts that were freshly cooked for us then soaked in honey and sprinkled with sesame seeds. If you go to Mongonissi Bay, look out for the Carnayo Gold waterfront bar and restaurant which you can easily get to by boat, which is also run by the same family.
More info: Carnayo Restaurant Website | The restaurant is open March to November for lunch and dinner service
Where to stay on Paxos – Paxos Villa Greece
If you are looking for a beautiful luxury villa to gather with friends and family, Villa Glaros provides the ultimate retreat. It’s set on the hillside with 7 bedrooms, swimming pool, tennis court and mesmerising views over the ocean.
If you want to have a complete break, the services of a concierge and private chef can be arranged and the villa is so well equipped it’s almost like staying in your own private resort.
The stone built villa is stylish and luxurious, filled with the owner’s personal collection of artworks and sculptures, and available to rent when he is not on the island. Villa Glaros is built on multiple levels on the hillside, so that all of the bedrooms have sea views and there are lots of terraces to relax, sunbathe and unwind.
The bedrooms have a pared down luxury, each with a marble en suite bathroom, with finest quality bedlinen, hardwood floors, luxurious detailing, and colourful artworks.
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Clean lines and architecture
The luxury of this spacious villa in Paxos is expressed in the clean lines, the architecture of the villa, the play of lines and shadows as the light changes throughout the day. Walking down through the garden, you reach the long pool with a sunbathing terrace. There’s also a shaded area for dining and a gym within the pool house.
Further down still and you walk through the garden gate to a secluded beach, a private place to swim and play, using the kayaks and paddleboards that are available to guess at the villa. There’s a boat too for the use for guests and a skipper can be arranged to take you around the island.
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At Villa Glaros you have all the services of a 5 star hotel with the privacy and seclusion of one of the most spacious luxury villas in Paxos – the best of all worlds if you are looking for a complete break.
Read my full review of Villa Glaros – Paxos Villas for Luxury Lovers
To make an enquiry for booking and availability, go to the Villa Glaros website
7. Loggos in Paxos
Nowhere is very far away on Paxos and a 15 minute drive north from Gaios will take you to Loggos (Longos in Greek.) This is one of the three main towns on the island.
Like Gaios, the peach and terracotta painted Venetian style houses are clustered around the harbour. There are places to tie up your small boat or park your yacht. Paxos is an easy place to get around by boat.
Pedestrianised narrow streets that lead down to the harbour. Small squares and the views of the boats. These are the main attraction of Loggos.
Come for lunch and you might easily find that a few hours have drifted by as you drink a coffee here, order some fresh fish there, stop in a pretty craft shop or two.
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Delicious luncheon
We had lunch at Vassilis which is a family run restaurant with a prime position on the harbour front. There’s a pretty dining room inside and a terrace to the side. We arranged ourselves at a shady table overlooking the harbour. But, we soon realised that what we thought was a pedestrianised street was actually the road through town.
Despite the odd car driving within a foot of our table, we decided to stay put because of the view. This is a family business with Greek and Mediterranean inspired dishes and plenty of seafood. It will please the gourmet while feeling casual, stylish and unpretentious.
I tried the Kritharoto (tiny grains of pasta cooked like a risotto) with giant prawns. My friend Amanda had the seafood linguini, which was also delicious. After lunch we wandered around the harbour to the bakery to find a tempting array of sweet pastries, ice creams and traditional Greek nougat.
On another day we returned to sit with a coffee in the popular Roxi Bar. This seemed to be a favourite with the expats and sailors who can moor up nearby and has a roof terrace overlooking the harbour.
8. East Coast beaches of Paxos near Loggos
The east coast of Paxos is the sheltered side of the island. Here you will find plenty of lovely beaches, which are quite secluded and often with not much in the way of facilities.
You need to be aware that the beaches on Paxos are pebble rather than sand. Greeks actually prefer this as it makes the water crystal clear for swimming.
On our boat trip around the island we saw lots of beaches along the east coast. Although we didn’t get a chance to visit them all, you can easily find them on a map.
Look out for Kipos, Marmari and Levrechio south of Loggos and Orkos, Lakkos and Monodendri to the north of Loggos. Monodendri is a favourite beach with the well known Ben’s Bar, a stylish beach bar where you can rent sun beds and water sports.
9. Lakka – wander around the town and harbour
Let’s continue north to Lakka, the third of the towns on Paxos. It is a little larger than Loggos and set around a beautiful bay where the yachts love to moor with crystal turquoise water. There are plenty of restaurants which are clustered around the waterfront, with easy access by boat for the yachts coming in for lunch.
We had a salad and sandwich lunch at the Fanis Bar, which has a prime position surrounded by water. They serve coffee, drinks and meals throughout the day.
On another day we ate at the excellent fish restaurant La Rosa di Paxos which is also on the harbourfront and displays the catch of the day in an ice cabinet.
I ordered some red mullet lightly battered and fried with salad. Set back from the water there’s a square which also has several restaurants which would be nice to eat in the evening. We were recommended Taverna Nionios which serves traditional Greek dishes.
10. Lakka – the beach and bay
From Lakka town you can walk around the edge of the bay along a path to reach Lakka Beach, a long pebble beach with a beach bar. We actually parked the car above the beach and walked down to it. The views from the road and from the footpath over the bay are stunning.
It’s a favourite spot for the yachts to drop anchor as the water here is a striking shade of turquoise and crystal clear. On Lakka beach there are sun beds to rent at the beach bar and some kayaks if you want to get out on the water and explore.
11. The Lighthouse at Lakka
On the headland to the west of Lakka Bay is the Faros or Lighthouse which you can see from outside the gates. Unfortunately you can’t go inside the walled enclosure.
The original oil powered lighthouse was built near this spot in 1825 when the island was under occupation by the British. But after the ground subsided it was rebuilt in 1919 on the current position.
The lighthouse was unused during WW2 but came into operation again in the 1950s and was powered by electricity from 1979. Sitting at the most northerly point of Paxos, it gives a warning light as boats round the point from the sheltered east coast to the wilder west coast of the island.
12. Plani beach near Lakka
Close to the lighthouse you can walk down to another sheltered and unspoiled beach called Plani beach. There’s not much parking, so you have to just park by the side of the road.
Although the road leads almost down to the beach, it’s quite rocky so probably better to walk. When you get down there it’s a lovely secluded pebble beach to swim with some rocks that are nice for snorkelling.
13. The Sarakinos Cisterns in Paxos
Before I visited Paxos I’d read about the stone cisterns at Sarakinos. I thought it would be fun to find them on our drive around the island. We found them just off the main road that runs from north to south through the centre of the island, on the turning to Erimitis beach.
If you head as if to the beach you should see a signpost for them and then you drive as far as you can. Park near a cluster of houses, then walk along some farm paths between the fields.
The stone chambers are for storing rainwater, presumably for drinking or irrigating the crops. They are carved underground out of the bedrock and are covered with small stone buildings.
In the past these would have been closed off with a door to prevent them being polluted and stop anyone falling in. Now the cisterns are empty of water and there are no doors. You can look into most of the buildings and into the cisterns themselves.
14. Mongonissi Beach in Paxos
Another lovely beach that we visited, this time sandy, is Mongonissi in the south-east of Paxos. On our first visit we parked at the car park for the Mongonissi Beach Bar and had lunch there.
This overlooks the beach and is popular for families as there is accommodation nearby. There’s a sheltered bay here and the beach is technically on a large island that’s joined to the mainland by a bridge for the road.
We returned by boat on another occasion on our boat trip around the island and stopped at the Carnayo Gold Restaurant. It was a beautiful spot to leave your boat and have lunch, with lots of delicious small plates and seafood.
15. A Boat trip around Paxos
Taking a boat trip around the island is one of the top things to do in Paxos. This is easily accomplished in a day, since the island is not large. You can hire your own boat, although unless you are very comfortable on the water I think it’s easier and less stressful to find one of the expert skippers who can take a private group.
If there’s just one or two of you then you can join a group boat tour. They are sold in many travel agencies, bars and boat rental offices in Gaios, Lakka and Loggos. Be sure to enquire about the size of the boat, how many people will be in your group and the facilities on board. All of these details will affect your experience.
It’s fun to go in a smaller traditional boat as we did. However, there’s no WC on board and if it gets windy it may be a bit rough. A bigger commercial boat trip will have a bigger boat but likely to be more people on board.
16. The blue caves and wild west coast of Paxos
Our boat trip took us along the sheltered eastern coast of Paxos, which I’ve already mentioned. Then along the wilder west coast, which is a stunning landscape of cliffs and sea caves.
There are quite a few notable spots which your captain or tour guide will point out to you. The blue caves are probably too tricky to enter if you have hired your own boat, as you do require some advanced boat handling skills.
Inside the sea caves you’ll see the clearest and bluest of water which sometimes seems as if a torch is shining through it. You can even swim here from the boat if you wish. The pinnacle of rock known as Ortholithos also makes a nice picture framed by the mouth of the cave.
17. The Tripitos Arch on Paxos
As part of the boat trip you’ll pass the famous Tripitos arch of Paxos, a sea arch that you can actually walk across. From the sea it is not so easy to see since the channel was too shallow and rocky for the boat to pass underneath the arch. We returned on another day to explore the arch from the land side.
With the rough location of the arch marked on our map, we drove up an increasingly rough and narrow farm track. At some point we left the car by the side of the road and continued on by foot along stone walled farm tracks between the fields.
There were a few rough signs along the way directing us to the arch. We eventually found it after a bit of exploration along different tracks. You need to walk down a steep cliff path, which is fine if you are fit and agile. I wouldn’t attempt it with young children.
Although the path across the arch looks as if it’s a knife edge, it’s actually several metres wide. Not quite as hair-raising as it appears, although still you should take great care.
We took it in turns to walk over the arch and get some fun pictures from the cliff path above. The coastline here is really beautiful. From the cliff and the arch you can see right over to Antipaxos, the smaller sister island of Paxos.
18. Erimitis Beach on Paxos
Another of the most beautiful beaches along the wild west coast of Paxos is Erimitis beach. We spotted it from our boat trip and we decided to return by road on another day.
The cliffs here rise sheer and rugged from the water. There’s a huge pile of stone and boulders next to the beach which has fallen down from the cliffs.
The best way to get there is probably to park at the lovely Erimitis Restaurant. There’s a reasonable sized car park and then you can walk down the hill to the beach. The road does lead down to the beach and there are a couple of villas at the bottom but no-where to park.
We had to leave our car by the road halfway up the hill. It’s a gorgeous spot for photos or to relax and swim if you like your beaches wild and untamed.
19. Sunset at Erimitis Restaurant
If you are looking for a picturesque setting overlooking the sea to watch the sun go down, I’ve heard that Erimitis Restaurant is the place. It’s set on the cliff top looking out over Erimitis Beach and the wild west coast.
When we visited it was in the daytime and the restaurant was setting up for a wedding but I’d love to go back and eat there. The ambiance here is relaxed but sophisticated. There’s a bar and a restaurant and of course if you visit for lunch you can afterwards walk down to the beach for a swim.
20. Take a boat trip to Antipaxos
Antipaxos is the smaller sister island to Paxos. It’s about a 20-30 minute boat ride to get there from the southern coast of Paxos.
If you hire a boat you can easily go there on your own, but it’s included in most boat trips. The island is not really lived on, with only a few summer houses and a beach bar. It’s a place you’d go for a swim and spend a few hours.
The thing that makes Antipaxos so special is the impossibly turquoise water. It makes you think that someone has ramped up the colour saturation, but that intense blue colour is all real.
When you arrive by boat, most people will go to the first beach called Vrika. The beach is sandy here, unlike the more normal pebble beaches. There’s a convenient landing stage for boats and a beach restaurant that’s open in summer.
The second bay is Mesovrika, where there’s a pebble beach but no landing stage, so most yachts will drop anchor for a while to allow you to swim from the boat. A little further there’s another pebble beach Voutoumi which also has a summer beach bar.
We enjoyed an hour or so on Vrika beach which was a perfect swimming spot. Later we followed one of the paths that lead up the hill. However, we were not sure where it would lead so we turned back.
There are no cars on Antipaxos, only these small tracks that would allow you to walk across the island if you wished. Visiting Antipaxos for a swim and lunch at the beach bar is definitely a highlight you wouldn’t want to miss if you are staying on Paxos.
Where to stay on Paxos
At Villa Glaros you have all the services of a 5 star hotel with the privacy and seclusion of one of the most spacious luxury villas in Paxo. It’s the best of all worlds if you are looking for a complete break.
Read my full review of Villa Glaros – Paxos Villas for Luxury Lovers
To make an enquiry for booking and availability, go to the Villa Glaros website
Villa Glaros booking includes;
- 6-7 en-suite bedrooms which can be arranged as doubles or twins
- Heated swimming pool with pool house and gym
- Floodlit tennis court
- Treehouse, table tennis, table-top football
- Direct access to a secluded beach
- Kayaks, paddleboards, small sailing boat for use of guests at the beach
- Villa’s own boat and skipper by arrangement to take you on boat trips
- Live in concierge and private chef
- Daily maid service cleaning
Map of Paxos
Take a look at this map of Paxos showing all the things to do in Paxos
How to get to Paxos from Corfu
The main route to reach Paxos is via the neighbouring island of Corfu, which being a bigger island offers flights from many international destinations.
From Corfu there are a few routes to reach Paxos. Private boat or helicopter transfers can be arranged for guests at Villa Glaros who want both speed and privacy.
The ferry to Corfu to Paxos
Most people arrive on one of the two ferry lines from Corfu, each of which offers sailings of around 3 times a day in the high season.
Kamelia Lines – This ferry line runs from Corfu to Paxos and back three times a day in the summer season. The ferry line operates two different vessels and depending on which you take the journey time is 60-90 minutes. There is WiFi, a toilet and a small selection of snacks on board. The Kamelia Lines ferries carry between 75 and 96 passengers. Advance bookings can be made via email [email protected] or by travel agents.
Ilida II (no website) – This ferry line operates a hydrofoil service from Corfu to Paxos and back 2-3 times a day in the summer season. Journey time is 60 minutes and there is WiFi, a toilet and a selection of snacks on board. The Ilida II boat is larger than Kamelia lines but otherwise there is little to choose between them (I tried both). Advance bookings can be made via email; [email protected] or by travel agents.
How to buy tickets for the ferry from Corfu to Paxos
You can buy tickets in advance for both services by email although this is quite laborious. There is no online payment system so you may have to ring through your credit card details. If you are using a travel agent to plan your holiday, it is better to ask them to make your reservation.
In high season I would recommend making an advance reservation, since you risk not getting the ferry of your choice. You’ll then require accommodation on Corfu or even risk missing a flight on the return from Paxos.
During low season you can buy tickets for both the Kamelia Lines and Ilida II services on the day. In Corfu, tickets are on sale at the New Port, from the travel agents opposite the Setti Venti Cafe just across the road from the ferry terminal.
In Paxos there is a small ticket office at the New Port of Gaios from where the ferries go and also a ticket office in Gaios old town. Ferry tickets are not for sale on the boat but pre-booked tickets may sometimes be picked up from the boat if you find the ticket offices at the ferry port closed.
How to get from Corfu airport to Corfu New Port
From Corfu airport it is a 10 minute taxi journey to Corfu New Port where the ferries go from. Kamelia Lines also advertise a bus that they run directly from Corfu airport to Corfu New Port for their customers in high season.
It’s worth knowing that there’s a left luggage desk at Corfu New Port. We found this useful on the return journey as we had a few hours to kill before our flight. So, we left our luggage to have a look around Corfu old town which is within walking distance.
How to get to Paxos New Port
In Paxos, the New Port of Gaios where the ferry operates from is a little distance along the shore from Gaios Old Town. It’s a 5 minute drive between the old town and the New Port or a 15 minute walk along a flat road that runs beside the water.
If you are arriving by ferry at Paxos New Port, you will be met by the Villa Glaros team. Otherwise you should pre-book a taxi or transfer which can be arranged by your accommodation.
Getting to Paxos from the Greek Mainland
For drivers on the Greek mainland, the alternative route to Paxos is via the port of Igoumenitsa from where you can get a ferry to Paxos. Ferries also connect Igoumenitsa to Italy via the port of Bari.
Other resources for Paxos
Need a guide book for Budapest? We recommend the DK Eyewitness Greek Islands Travel Guide
Even if you are not staying in Paxos, you can enjoy a day trip from Corfu. Check out this boat trips to Paxos from Corfu to see the Blue Caves and Antipaxos with a stop at Gaios
Car rental in Paxos
If you have booked a hire car in advance from one of the car rental companies on Paxos, it will normally be left on the quayside at the Gaios New Port. Your name will be marked on it and the keys left in the ignition.
This relaxed arrangement may surprise you if you are used to completing endless paperwork at larger airports for car rentals. But it’s normal for the smaller Greek islands. The system is that you will then stop by the car rental office within the next day or so to sort out the paperwork and payment.
We used Alfa Car Hire who have an office in Gaios and found their service to be friendly and efficient. You can make a car reservation from them via email: [email protected].
We recommend that you hire a Group B or above car while staying at Villa Glaros. We started with a Group A car and found that while it was fine for most roads around the island. But, it was not quite powerful enough for the steep road down to the villa.
You do not necessarily need a big car in size as many of the roads on Paxos are narrow. However, you do need a car with a bit of power for the steep hills and rough tracks that lead to many places on the island.
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My visit to Paxos was sponsored* by Paxos Villa Greece who provided the villa stay and some of the experiences mentioned.
* More info on my policies page
This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com
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Richard
Sunday 31st of May 2020
Hi, With regards to Antipaxos I can assure you there are cars on the island but up in the village and surrounding countryside.
Heather Cowper
Monday 1st of June 2020
@Richard Thanks for the update, I guess there's a bit more to Antipaxos than just the beach!
Kieran Potter
Wednesday 4th of September 2019
HiHeather, First of all, to write to you about such an important topic!!! Here has an article with brilliant Greece. And I´m waiting for your next trip. Now. I´ll share on social media:) Thanks
John Spear
Saturday 31st of August 2019
Greece is one of the places ones can spend whole vacation without getting bored, especially near the water... kayak, snorkeling and just resting... Thanks for sharing it, it's indeed beautiful :)