Have you ever been to the hotel that time forgot? Where it feels like walking into the home of your bohemian great aunt – the one who entertained all the poets and artists of her day, who even had Jean Cocteau and Charles de Gaule around her dinner table.
The vibe at the Palmyra Hotel
When you visit Baalbek, you’re there to see the Roman ruins of Helipolis, the city of the sun and one of the greatest Roman cities of its day. And when you visit the Palmyra Hotel, you can feel the sense of the elegant travellers of the 30s and 40s, who passed through on their grand tour of the Middle East. It’s a little like walking into an Agatha Christie novel, where you expect elegant ladies with picture hats and gentlemen in linen suits to wander in, followed by their driver with a pile of crocodile leather suitcases.
Welcoming guests at Palmyra Hotel
But sadly the elegance of the past is now rather fraying around the edges, the handsome doormen are now aged retainers who sit tired at the door, waiting to open it for the occasional guest. As I passed through and murmured ‘Choukran’ the elderly doorman returned a long, croaky ‘Weeelcome’.
The manager welcomed us into his ornately tiled office, complete with leather blotter and old fashioned telephone and not a computer in sight. But this is not stylish retro, it’s the real thing! At the suggestion of a hot bath, he looked a little doubtful but eventually the boiler was cranked up in time for us to bathe before bed-time.
The lobby at Palmyra Hotel
In the lobby there are old velvet covered chairs, a few ancient artefacts that might have been pinched from the Roman remains, before that sort of thing was frowned upon, and the framed drawings of Jean Cocteau on the wall. They’ve obviously made and effort to spruce up the bedrooms, and I actually like that faded Persian rug, velvet curtains and dark-wood furniture look. But the bathrooms, really did look as if they hadn’t been touched since the 40s!
The hospitality of the waiters
We had to laugh at breakfast when my friend asked for an omelet, as an extra to the bread, jam and olives on offer. The waiter was extremely accommodating and actually popped out to buy the eggs especially for her! Although we were there mid-week, there appeared to be barely anyone there, and I suspect that most Lebanese visitors would turn their noses up at it in favor of something with more glitz and shiny marble.
It really is waiting for someone to throw some money at it and turn it into a gorgeous boutique hotel with plumbing that works. I can’t help smiling affectionately when thinking about our stay at the Palmyra Hotel – it’s a lovely relic of the past, but only for one night!
This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com
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Paul Fitz
Monday 12th of January 2015
Stayed at the Palmyra Hotel about 5 times between 1994 and 2003 and loved it. a hotel with history and atmosphere of the ghosts of the past. Loved the two old boys (almost certainly dead now) who were always on duty. Who cares if it is ' a bit frayed at the edges ' still beats the sterility of modern hotels....oh, and for Romanists the view is quite good too!!!
Heather Cowper
Monday 12th of January 2015
@Paul - for sure it was atmospheric, would stay there again
Selina
Tuesday 15th of March 2011
Uh i found you looking for charms but nice reading never the less :)
Alex fr. Luxury Kuala Lumpur Hotel
Sunday 21st of November 2010
Hi Heather,
I agree to you. That kind of service wasn't bad at all. They are quite friendly and sincere in my opinion. The place is pretty nice in my opinion (probably I never been to this kind of hotel). If I were there, I'll probably take a shot to spend some time there instead of those normal hotel I stayed most of the time during my travel.
Heather Cowper
Wednesday 10th of March 2010
@ Rima
Although I did think the Palmyra was a little past it's prime, I don't think I intended to imply that the service was poor - I felt that all the staff were most charming and eager to help, and were particularly accommodating in finding us parking nearby.
My friend booked for us and I don't think that either of us realised that there was a newer annexe which might have suited us better, but I would certainly seek it out if I return to Lebanon.
I can quite understand your dilemma in whether to invest in an old hotel, as tourism has taken a knock in Lebanon in recent years with political instability. Now that the situation is much more calm, I hope that more people will visit and enjoy the beauties of Lebanon and the amazing ruins at Baalbek. Then perhaps the old hotel will be restored to it's former glory.
Please do contact me by the e-mail you can find on my contacts page and send me any pictures of your new hotel annexe.
Heather
Rima Al-Husseini
Wednesday 10th of March 2010
Dear Heather, I was saddened to read your review about your stay at the Palmyra Hotel in Baalbek. Sadly, I agree with your opinion and impressions about the hotel. But I am also disappointed that you were not shown the annex--which is actually the “boutique hotel “ of which you speak in your speak.
The Palmyra Hotel has been in my family for 20 years and I have been overseeing it’s upgrade and upkeep for that long against all odds. It has been my aim to maintain it as a destination for cultural tourism which has been non-existent , at best, in Lebanon for decades--especially in comparison with the glitzy glitter of Beirut hotels.
All of this, obviously, does not excuse the bad service you experienced during your stay. This is especially frustrating to me since there is a boutique hotel, fully equipped; an integration of traditional Lebanese architecture and artifacts with the service and comforts of a modern hotel--only two doors down the road from the old hotel where you stayed.
Deficient service does not only effect clientele. For me, and especially with the lack of sufficient tourism in Baalbek, it is a difficult choice between keeping an old, though relatively sub-standard staff, or a new professional, but unknown staff.
I would like to take the liberty to send you, and your readers, some pictures of the new hotel--the annex--and I hope that you will be able to make the trip once again to Baalbek.
Regards, Rima Husseini