From a trickle of water at its source, the Thames meanders through the Cotswolds in verdant fields and water meadows, transitioning from stream to navigable river. The Thames Path National Trail follows the river’s course, but at this stage it’s far from the mighty Thames that flows into London. On this first 4 day hike between Kemble and Oxford, the path offers a taste of English rural life, strolling through fields and small villages.
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Days 1-4 – Kemble to Oxford
I walked the whole 300 km, 15 day Thames Path National Trail in sections with my sister. We normally walked 2 sections at a time with an overnight stay, although not always consecutively, since bad weather and flooding affected our plans.
It took us around a year to complete the whole trail, starting and ending in the autumn. We chose to start from the Thames Source and walk towards London, but this four day leg from Kemble to Oxford or any part of the trail can be walked in either direction.
As the Thames Path is 15 days long, I decided to break my articles into 4 sections, each covering 3-4 days walking on the trail. This is so I can give detailed information for walkers on all the practicalities such transport and accommodation, as well as what to see on the trail. You’re reading the first of the 4 articles describing our walk on the Thames Trail, with more to be published soon.
Be aware that logistics for Days 1-4 of the Thames Path Trail can be tricky unless you choose to walk it consecutively in a 4 day section. Public transport between these smaller riverside locations is limited, as is accommodation in places. So if you are not walking the four days in one go, be sure to plan your logistics carefully, using the transport tips provided in this article.
Essential planning for Days 1 – 4 Kemble to Oxford
If you are keen to walk these 4 days of the Thames Trail in one go, here are the planning essentials:
Book the train to Kemble for the start of the walk – It’s a stop on the direct line from London Paddington to Gloucester. We recommend Trainline for easy rail bookings.
Book accommodation: For the night before starting the walk at Kemble (if required) –Thames Head Inn | Day 1 Cricklade – The White Hart Inn | Day 2 Lechlade – The Riverside Inn | Day 3 Newbridge – The Rose Revived | Day 4 End of walk in Oxford (if required) – numerous options, check these Oxford hotels.
Book the train from Oxford at the end of this 4 day section – There are direct trains to London Paddington, or you can change to other lines at Reading. We recommend Trainline for easy rail bookings.
Guidebook – buy the Trailblazer Thames Path Guide – this is the one we used and found it excellent for walking in either direction. A guidebook is not essential, but recommended since it adds a lot of useful information and context to your walk.
I’ll be publishing more articles in this Thames Path series very soon. In the meantime, if you have questions about our walk on the Thames Path National Trail, feel free to email me at heather(at)heatheronhertravels(dot)com
Day 1 – Thames Source to Cricklade
In an unremarkable field near Kemble in the Cotswolds, a spring bubbles up from the ground. This is the source of the Thames, at this point little more than a muddy ditch marked by a few stones. Still we duly took our photos, to mark the start of our walk on the Thames Path National Trail. A few fields later and the ditch became a shallow stream, babbling and clear in parts, choked with weed in others.
Briefly passing through the village of Ewen (meaning source of the river) the trail skirts south of Somerford Keynes and through the Cotswold Water Park. Here some old gravel pits have been flooded to create 133 lakes for leisure and wildlife, with a collection of holiday homes around Lower Mill Estate.
With the path passing close to so many lakes, we had envisaged picturesque vistas across the water. Disappointingly, most of the lakes are fenced off, so we only caught the occasional glimpse of them on the walk.
One highlight was the pretty village of Ashton Keynes, set in the midst of the area of lakes, where we stopped for a drink at the White Hart Inn.
From there our walk continued across the muddy fields and water meadows into the attractive old town of Cricklade.
Day 1 – Distance and timings
Thames Source to Cricklade is aprox 12 miles / 20 km. It took us around 6.5 hrs to walk, including a couple of short picnic breaks and 30 mins for a pub drink at lunchtime.
Day 1 – Where to stay
Kemble – if you need an overnight stay before starting the walk, the Thames Head Inn is a short walk from Kemble station and the Thames Source.
Cricklade – we stayed at The White Hart Inn for a comfortable no frills stay. Other options in the centre of Criclade are the slightly more luxurious Red Lion, or The Old Bear Inn.
The White Hart Hotel – located in the heart of Cricklade with comfortable, modern rooms
Day 1 – Where to eat
Kemble – At Kemble Station there’s a station cafe and pub nearby. Lunch and dinner are served at The Thames Head Inn close to the Thames Source.
Ashton Keynes – halfway through the walk, we stopped at the friendly White Hart Inn.
Cricklade – At the end of the day’s walk, there are a number of restaurant and pub options, where you can also stock up on picnic provision.
Day 1 – Transport for this stage
Kemble – has a railway station, which is a 25 minute walk to the source of the Thames.
Cricklade – the nearest station is at Swindon, then take the No 53 bus to Cricklade.
Options by car – If parking at Cricklade you could book a taxi (20 mins) to take you to the start of the walk near Kemble. As we had 2 cars, we left one in Cricklade, then drove the second car towards Kemble, parking in the layby (space for around 6 cars) at the point on the A429 where the footpath and River Thames cross the road.
Day 2 – Cricklade to Lechlade
The first town bridge in Cricklade was built by the Romans and until the 1820s this was the highest navigable point of the River Thames. Goods arrived here from all over the Cotswolds and were transported downriver to London.
This small Cotswolds town offers many attractive old buildings, including St Sampson’s Church with a landmark square tower rising above the tree line.
Leaving the town behind, the path crosses water meadows alongside the river, which at this stage is a broad stream, filled with reeds and green weed.
The path between Cricklade and Castle Easton was very muddy and the meadows flooded, requiring us to take long detours or wade ankle deep in water. We were walking in autumn after heavy rain, so we recommend tackling this stretch in the drier summer months.
The village of Castle Easton provided a welcome drink at the pleasant Red Lion pub, which also serves food. From here the path skirts away from the river course, passing through light woodland, before rejoining the river again close to Inglesham.
Inglesham to Lechlade
The approach through old Inglesham was our favourite part of the day’s walk. A family of swans drifted on the river, which broadens and becomes more clear as it approaches Lechlade. At Inglesham we paused to look around the 13th century church, once the heart of a long lost village.
At the point where the Thames and Severn canal joins the River Thames, there’s a footbridge and a Round House where the lock-keeper once lived. Just a short stroll further along the now widening River Thames and we reached Lechlade at the old stone Ha’Penny toll bridge.
Day 2 – Distance and timings
Cricklade to Lechlade is aprox 10 miles / 17 km. It took us around 5.5 hrs to walk, including a couple of short picnic breaks and 30 mins for a pub drink at lunchtime.
Day 2 – Where to stay
Lechlade – the Riverside Inn or New Inn Hotel or The Swan Inn are all good options for a pub stay in the centre of the town.
The Riverside Inn – set by the river in Lechlade with a restaurant serving British cuisine
Day 2 – Where to eat
Cricklade – At the start of the walk, there are food shops in Cricklade to buy picnic provisions.
Castle Easton – We enjoyed a lunchtime drink stop at the Red Lion pub in Castle Easton, which also serves food at lunchtime.
Lechlade – At the end of the walk in Lechlade there are several pubs and restaurants as well as food shops.
Day 2 – Transport for this stage
Cricklade – the nearest station is at Swindon, then take the No 53 bus to Cricklade.
Lechlade – the nearest station is at Swindon, then take the No 64 bus. To travel between Lechlade and Cricklade there is no direct bus, so you’d need to order a taxi (30 mins).
Options by car – As we had two cars, we positioned one in Cricklade and one at Lechlade. Park in Lechlade at the Riverside Car Park by the A361 on the south bank of the River Thames and the town. From here you can easily access the Thames Path or walk across the bridge and explore the town of Lechlade.
Day 3 – Lechlade to Newbridge
This is one of the longest legs of the Thames Path walk, so it’s best to start early. The pretty town of Lechlade, with its old stone bridge, is the place to stock up on provisions, since there are no shops close to the river until you reach Oxford. It’s a very rural stretch and was overgrown in some places, which were not my favourite parts of the walk!
Visiting Kelmscott Manor
One highlight to pass an hour after leaving Lechlade is Kelmscott Manor, owned by the artist and manufacturer William Morris. If it’s open, try to visit the house, gardens and surrounding barns, which are full of Morris designs that epitomise the “Arts and Crafts” movement of the late 19th century. I was sad that we arrived too late to see inside the house, as I love the richly coloured ‘maximalist’ prints and textiles that Morris was famous for.
From the old stone bridge at Radcot with Ye Olde Swan riverside pub, the river meanders lazily through water meadows. It’s tempting to cut across the sweeping curves where there’s a path to save time.
Both Radcot Lock and Rushey Lock made pretty stops for a picnic, with picturesque plantings of flowers around the old lock-keeper’s house.
Tadpole Bridge to Newbridge
However, the stretch of path on either side of Tadpole bridge was overgrown and at times we had to hack through the stinging nettles. A jungle machete might have proved useful, but we had to make do with our walking poles!
Chimney Meadows is a nature reserve that has been restored as a meadow and wetlands landscape. It’s a haven for birds, and we investigated the bird hide where you can look out for curlew and lapwing.
On reaching Newbridge, we admired the unusual Medieval bridge with its 6 pointed stone arches. Although built in 1250 it was named the “New” bridge because it was built after the Radcot bridge, which was even older.
As this is the end of the day’s walk, you can try either of the two pubs for some well earned refreshments after your long walk!
Day 3 – Distance and timings
Lechlade to Newbridge is aprox 16 miles / 25.7 km. It took us around 8 hrs to walk, including a couple of short picnic breaks and a 30 mins pub stop.
Day 3 – Where to stay
At the end of this leg, the accommodation options along this stretch are very limited, so be sure to book ahead.
Newbridge – The only place to stay at Newbridge is the Rose Revived, or you could also make this leg a little shorter if you stay at The Trout Inn at Tadpole Bridge.
Rose Revived is a 16th-century inn with original character in the quiet village of Newbridge.
Day 3 – Where to eat
Lechlade – There are plenty of shops in Lechlade to buy a picnic, but no other shops until you reach Oxford.
On the route – There are several riverside pubs for a coffee or lunch. They include the Plough Inn at Kelmscott, Ye Olde Swan at Radcot and The Trout at Tadpole Bridge. Kelmscott Manor also has a nice tearoom.
Newbridge – There is no shop to buy food but two pubs serve food, The Rose Revived or Maybush.
Day 3 – Transport for this stage
This stretch is tricky as public transport is limited. If you don’t have a car we recommend walking from Lechlade to Oxford over 2 days, staying overnight at either the Trout at Tadpole Bridge or the Rose Revived at Newbridge.
Lechlade – the nearest railway station is at Swindon, then take the No 64 bus.
Newbridge – the nearest railway station is at Oxford, then take S6 Gold and X15 bus to Newbridge or a 40 minute taxi ride.
Options by car – As we had two cars, we positioned one at Lechlade, in the Riverside Car Park by the A361 and the second at Newbridge in a lane by the Rose Revived pub. In Newbridge there are two pubs with car parks, but you would need permission to leave your car.
Taxi – If not staying at Newbridge at the Rose Revived, you could call a taxi from either of the Newbridge pubs to take you back to Lechlade (30 mins).
Day 4 – Newbridge to Oxford
In good weather, this is an idyllic stretch of the Thames Path, with pleasant views, pretty stone bridges and locks. It’s a favourite stretch for canal boats and river cruisers, which you’ll often see passing on the river or moored on the bank.
Until you approach Oxford this day’s walk feels quite rural and isolated, so take everything you need with you.
The initial stretch from Newbridge follows the meandering of the river, which curves its way through water meadows, some of which are grazed by cattle.
You’ll also pass a series of locks, such as Northmoor, Pinkhill and Eynsham Locks, which enable boats to navigate the fall of the river as it heads towards the sea.
These locks feel quintessentially English, with their original lock-keeper’s cottages, beautifully kept lawns and cottage style gardens. They are a fun place to stop for a rest or a picnic, to watch the canal boats opening and closing the gates of the lock.
At Bablock Hythe the path skirts around a caravan site, with a rest stop at The Ferryman Inn. A little further, the 18th century stone bridge at Swinford is a curiosity, as a privately owned toll bridge, charging cars just 5p to cross.
Approaching Oxford
Closer to Oxford, the ruins of Godstow Abbey are located by the path, with signs to explain the history of this convent, where Henry II met his mistress Rosamund de Clifford.
On the opposite bank is the Trout Inn which was part of the monastery and featured as a location in the Inspector Morse TV series, set in Oxford.
The stretch as you approach Oxford is charming, with a broad path and views of Port Meadow, where the cows have grazed for centuries. The water is shallow and we saw people swimming in a few places, in case you fancy a dip before you reach the city boundaries of Oxford.
By the end of Day 4 you’ll be ready for a rest day, and there’s a huge amount to see in the ancient university town of Oxford. If you plan to stop here for some sightseeing, read my article on how to spend 48 hours in Oxford.
Day 4 – Distance and timings
Newbridge to Oxford is aprox 13.5 miles / 21.7 km. It took us around 7 hrs to walk, including a couple of short picnic breaks and a 30 mins pub stop.
Day 4 – Where to stay
Until you reach Oxford, the accommodation options along this stretch are very limited, so be sure to book ahead.
Newbridge – the only place to stay at Newbridge is the Rose Revived, or you could also make this leg a little longer if you stay at The Trout Inn at Tadpole Bridge.
Oxford – the city offers a huge choice of pubs, guest houses, hotels and hostels – check these Oxford hotels.
Because we had two cars, we stayed in Faringdon near Lechlade at The Old Crown Coaching Inn. From there we could catch the S6 gold bus to Oxford and walk back to Newbridge where we had prepositioned a car.
Day 4 – Where to eat
Newbridge – There is no shop to buy food, nor any until you reach Oxford. However the two pubs in Newbridge serve food.
On the route – Riverside pub stops are The Ferryman Inn at Bablock Hythe, the Talbot Inn at Swinford, The Trout Inn at Godstow and The Perch at Binsey. There are several pretty locks along this route that make a good picnic location.
Oxford – once you reach Oxford there are numerous shops and cafes.
Day 4 – Transport for this stage
This stretch is tricky as public transport is limited.
Newbridge – the nearest railway station is at Oxford, then take S6 Gold and X15 bus to Newbridge or a 40 minute taxi ride.
Oxford – there is a railway station and good coach or bus connections.
Options by car – As we had two cars, we left one at Faringdon (near Lechlade) where we had stayed the night and took the S6 gold bus to Oxford getting off at Osney Bridge, Oxford. Then we walked back to Newbridge where we had left the second car in a lane by the Rose Revived pub.
If you are leaving a car in Oxford, you could try the Oatlands Road Car Park in Botley, or the Port Meadow South Parking, both of which are close to the Thames Path.
Accommodation for Days 1-4 of the Thames Path National Trail
Here are our recommended places to stay for Days 1-4 of the walk.
If you need accommodation for the night before starting the walk at Kemble book 1 night at the Thames Head Inn
Day 1 Cricklade – we recommend the central and comfortable White Hart Inn where we stayed.
The White Hart Hotel – located in the heart of Cricklade with comfortable, modern rooms
Day 2 Lechlade – The Riverside Inn is located right by the river, near the bridge at Lechlade.
The Riverside Inn – set by the river in Lechlade with a restaurant serving British cuisine
Day 3 Newbridge – stay at The Rose Revived, which is the only accommodation on this stretch, so book well in advance.
Rose Revived is a 16th-century inn with original character in the quiet village of Newbridge.
Day 4 – you’ll end this day’s walk in Oxford where there are numerous accommodation options, so rather than recommend just one, we suggest you check these Oxford hotels to find something that suits your style and budget.
Read Next
Read about the next 4 day stage of hiking this trail: Hiking the Thames Path National Trail – from Oxford to Henley – Days 5-8
More articles about the Thames Path National Trail
I’ll be publishing more articles in this Thames Path series very soon. In the meantime, if you have questions about our walk on the Thames Path National Trail, feel free to email me at heather(at)heatheronhertravels(dot)com
Coming Soon – Tips for hiking the Thames Path National Trail
Coming Soon – Days 9-12 on the Thames Path National Trail – Henley to Kingston
Coming Soon – Days 13-15 on the Thames Path National Trail – London
Resources for hiking the Thames Path National Trail
Train bookings – to get you to the start and end of this 4 day walk, we recommend Trainline for easy rail bookings.
Book accommodation: to easily book hotels online and have all your bookings in once place, we used Booking.com but if you prefer you could also use Expedia.
Guidebook – we used and recommend the Trailblazer Thames Path Guide – this is the one we used and we liked the easy to follow maps and the fact that it’s just as easy to follow for walking in either direction.
The Thames Path National Trail website is a useful source of information about the trail as a whole.
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This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com
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