A tale of two Refuges – on the Tour de Mont Blanc

The mist was swirling in as we reached Refuge Col de Balme, our first stop on the Tour de Mont Blanc trail. Clouds were blowing over the high passes as dusk was falling.

Our way had been blocked by a herd of sharp horned cattle, their large bells clanging from the leather collars around their necks. We moved off the path into the brush to let them pass, not knowing if they might try to butt us out of the way.

A little further on, the Refuge was in darkness, but a car was parked outside. I skirted around and an elderly man eventually came to the window.

When he asked what I wanted, I explained that I’d rung him to reserve a place. He came to open the front door, indicating where we should leave our rucksacks, inside the door.

This article may contain affiliate links that provide commission on purchases you make at no extra cost to you. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Refuge Col de Balme

The dining room was cosy from a metal stove in the middle of the floor and my hands began to thaw out. We appeared to be the only walkers there. An elderly lady shuffled forward to serve us hot tea from the bar.

For supper a simple meal of omlette jambon was proposed, with green salad, local cheese and bread. It was followed by a Tarte aux Myrtilles in a dry pastry case.

Shortly afterwards three other walkers arrived, two men, one with his teenage son. They had come up from Champex in the opposite direction to us.

We compared notes, realising that we had both tried to ring the Refuge to book with little success. It seemed that the couple were not over anxious to take bookings.

A chilly night

Madame showed us to the dortoirs upstairs, where the electric lights only extended as far as the stairwell. They switched off automatically after a few minutes – thank goodness for the head torches.

Madame brought us three blankets for the night between the two of us. The extra one was for my friend Julia as she had not been feeling well due to the altitude.

I enquired in my most polite French whether it might be possible for me to also have an extra blanket? “Oh, c’est pas la peine” said Madame. No need, as the three men would be in the dortoir with us and we would all soon get warm.

Eyeing the other empty rooms on the landing I wondered whether the Monsieurs might be in a separate room to us ladies. However my suggestion was dismissed – the other rooms were all shut for the end of the season.

Sharing basic accommodations

The toilet just along the corridor was pointed out to us, with a tap near the floor to fill a washing up bowl and act as a sink. We were just glad that we wouldn’t need to go outside into the freezing cold, to use the portaloo that was there for walkers coming to the cafe in the day.

Fully clothed, I went to bed and lay awake for a few hours trying to get warm with my coat and spare fleece draped over me. I wondered whether I might risk waking the other sleepers by get up and put on a second set of clothes.

In the morning we discovered a second bathroom that Madame had failed to mention. We then hurried down to breakfast of coffee and baguette with jam.

Our rucksacks packed, we set off along the path that skirted the mountainside. We paused only to admire the view of Mont Blanc, its snow capped peaks framed by a blue sky.

Chalet Bon Abri

Later that day, things were quite different as we arrived at Chalet Bon Abri, having crossed into Switzerland. We made it by a combination of hitch hiking, bus and train to Champex Lac (that’s another story).

Just down the track above the lake we spotted first the tipi in the flower filled garden. Then we saw a couple of campers playing table tennis on the table outside. This place was a well-run Swiss hostel in wooden chalet style but where everything was stylish and modern inside.

Madame showed us where to leave our boots downstairs. She pointed us to the neatly stacked pairs of plastic clogs that we could borrow to wear indoors.

Upstairs, our dorm room had three bunks but luckily we had the room to ourselves. The red checked quilts and orange sheets looked invitingly cosy.

Just down the corridor their was a spotless new shower room with piping hot water. However, dinner was being served promptly at 7pm, so we went down straight away.

Comfortable atmosphere

An aperitif of white wine with cheesy waifer biscuits would not have been out of place in a smart restaurant. We enjoyed the home made carrot soup, followed by chicken in a wine sauce.

I examined the route we had just come on the topographic map on the wall. The map was ideal to help us plan our route for next year. We hope to walk a further leg of the Tour de Mont Blanc from Champex Lac to Courmayeur.

Is it better to be high in the mountains with basic facilities, or down in the valley with a little more comfort? Let’s just say that we’re planning to start our walk from Chalet Bon Abri next year, and I can’t wait!

 Click here to get the FREE Tour de Mont Blanc Packing guide

You’ll also be subscribed to our free monthly newsletter for great travel resources, news and offers. You can unsubscribe at any time and we’ll never share your e-mail.

More tales from the Tour de Mont Blanc

What I packed for my mini Tour de Mont Blanc – video
My second year on the Tour de Mont Blanc – video diary 2011
My Tour de Mont Blanc diary Day 2 – Col de Balme to Champex

Resources for those walking the Tour de Mont Blanc

On the first night of our walk we stayed at Refuge Col de Balme (Tel 04 50 54 02 33). The cost included dinner and breakfast in a 6 bed dorm room. On our second night we stayed at Gite Bon Abri at Champex-de’en-Haut, which we highly recommend. They offer private rooms and 6 bed dorm rooms with dinner and breakfast. Gite Bon Abri may be booked in advance by e-mail.

For outdoor clothing I used Ellis Brigham who have a wide range of waterproof jackets, trousers and other walking gear you might need for a trek on the mountains.

We used the Cicerone Tour of Mont Blanc guide by Kev Reynolds. It’s an excellent guide for both the clockwise and anti-clockwise route. There’s a detailed route guide, maps, accommodation information and points of interest along the route.

At the start and end of our walk, we stayed at the modern, stylish, budget boutique Hotel Slalom in Les Houches. It is perfectly placed for summer walking opposite the start of the anti-clockwise TMB route. The ski lifts are close for winter ski-ing.

We booked our transfer from Geneva airport to Les Houches through Chamexpress. They run an extremely efficient airport to hotel service.

Read Next

Read my Tour de Mont Blanc diary Day 1 – Flégère to Refuge Col de Balme

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com

Click to subscribe to our monthly newsletter, news and reader offers