Paxos Villas for luxury lovers – staying at Villa Glaros in Greece

Arriving at Paxos, with its wooded slopes and impossibly blue water, it feels as if you’ve stumbled on a secret part of Greece; the ‘real’ Greece of mythology and Mamma Mia. The smallest of the string of Ionian islands, Paxos has no airport and has escaped the excesses of mass tourism. You arrive by boat, by ferry or by yacht, just as it’s always been.

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On the eastern slopes of this gem of an island is Villa Glaros, a stone villa that’s built into the hillside and perfectly fits into the stylish but understated feel of Paxos. This seven bedroom luxury Paxos villa, was built in the last 15 years by the present owner, who designed it for his own use but now wants to share the pleasure with others, who can rent it when he is not on the island.

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I stayed for a week at Villa Glaros with fellow bloggers Amanda of The Boutique Adventurer and Rebecca of Life Beyond Borders and felt like we’d stumbled on a little piece of heaven. The seven bedrooms make this an ideal Paxos villa rental for extended families or groups of friends to holiday together.

Once you are there, you may never want to leave, since the villa offers all the facilities of a 5 star hotel with pool, tennis court and lots of water sports, as well as a private chef and concierge service.

One of the most beautifully designed luxury villas in Paxos, Villa Glaros takes care of everything, leaving you to just relax and unwind in a very private and secluded setting.

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Villa Glaros – those sea views!

One of the first thing that hit me on arrival at Villa Glaros was Wow! Those views!

As Paxos villas go, you can’t get a much better location than this, set on a hillside surrounded by nature. The gardens and pathways are carved from the natural landscape of Cyprus, gorse and woodland that covers much of Paxos.

It’s a very well thought out design on multiple levels, to make the most of the outlook over the sea and views towards mainland Greece in the distance.

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The ground floor living space of this Paxos luxury villa, gives out to a broad terrace with loungers, wicker sofas and a dining area, with another upper terrace with more seating.

Almost all the seven bedrooms and mezzanine level rooms have seas views and they continue from the seating areas, sun loungers and hammocks as you descend through the garden, past the pool and to the beach below.

I love being in sight of the ocean and found it incredibly calming to gaze out to sea, following the occasional boat buzzing across the horizon as it made a tour of the island.

To make an enquiry for booking and availability, go to the Villa Glaros website

Villa Glaros – The Gaios Master Suite

On the ground floor is the Gaios master suite, with glass doors out to the terrace and an open bathroom with enormous bath as well as a private shower room. Like all the rooms of the villa, the style is understated luxury, with hardwood floors and minimalist furnishings, offset by splashes of colour in the rugs and artworks from the owner’s collection.

This is a bedroom that really makes you feel special, the master of all you survey and would be ideal for a couple who wish to invite their friends or extended family to enjoy the gorgeous villa with them.

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Villa Glaros – around the house

The luxury of this spacious villa in Paxos is expressed not with opulence or gold finishes but rather in the clean lines, the light filled spaces and the architecture of the villa, which grows on you the longer you stay there.

It’s about the small details and the carefully chosen abstract artworks that inject a burst of colour into the pale spaces. The design highlights a play of lines and shadows as the light changes throughout the day.

Light pours into the villa from the enormous double height windows and fills the entire house, with relaxed modern sofas, a kitchen to one side and a cosy area at the back with a games table and drinks cabinet.

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The kitchen is huge by any normal standards, although somewhat dwarfed by the airy spaces of the living area. It’s equipped with everything you’d need to cater for a houseful of guests if you fill all of the seven bedrooms.

If you love to cook there’s every kitchen knife, machine or gadget you could wish for. But if, like many guests, you prefer a complete break, there is a concierge service and private chef who live in to take care of you.

They can plan your menus, shop and cook your meals, so that you never have to worry about the work involved in feeding a large group of friends or family and have a proper holiday.

To make an enquiry for booking and availability, go to the Villa Glaros website

On the mezzanine level above the living area is an office and library, with views over the gardens and sea, just in case you need to keep in touch with business matters.

The room is also the one place in the villa with a TV cleverly hidden in a special cupboard, so that those who want to watch the big sports fixture or a film will not be disappointed.

Guests will also enjoy browsing the books on the shelves for novels, glossy photography books and guides to Paxos.

Paxos holidays are generally relaxed affairs and if ever there was a villa that was conducive to curling up with a good book on a shady sunbed or hammock, Villa Glaros is that place.

From the landing, the wooden front door swings open to take you out to the upper walkway where there’s a small parking area and the tennis court set above the house.

The bedrooms at Villa Glaros

Within the main villa are two adjoining bedrooms, Lakka and Loggos, that lead off the mezzanine landing. Both are about the same size, one with en suite shower room, the other with adjoining bathroom, making them the ideal choice for parents who want to be close to their children or guests who want to be close to each other.

I slept in Lakka which has a small terrace with chair and table looking towards the sea, a place for early risers to sit in the morning with a cup of coffee and watch the sun come up.

The adjoining bedroom Loggos was used by my friend Rebecca from Life Beyond Borders who had an uninterrupted view towards the sea, with a small en suite shower room. A ladder led up to a mezzanine platform that could make an extra sleeping or relaxation space for teenagers.

Both rooms had simple, clean lines with polished wooden floors and beds that could be set up as either twins or doubles. The luxurious finishes continued into the bathrooms with floors and walls lined with honey coloured marble.

To make an enquiry for booking and availability, go to the Villa Glaros website

Artwork around Villa Glaros

Another aspect of Villa Glaros that I loved was the artwork scattered around the villa and the small personal details like the shell collection in the fireplace. Each sculpture or painting had been carefully chosen to suit the space, the elongated black marble torso, the primary colours in the column of faces outside the study and the quirky ceramic figurines in the bathrooms.

I’m not an expert on the artists featured, but if you admire the abstract style of Picasso, Matisse and Henry Moore you will enjoy these carefully chosen artworks that are to be found in many spots around the villa and gardens.

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Dining at Villa Glaros

Dining outside in the warm night air is one of the great pleasures of being on holiday in Greece, creating a feeling of warmth, sunlight and memories to take home with you and lock away for the rest of the year.

Villa Glaros is truly made for entertaining and sharing with friends and family, and has two separate terraces with large dining tables where you can gather.

Both terraces enjoy those astounding sea views, and are made for long, lazy lunches in the shade or evenings with good food and wine that linger well after the stars come out. If you want a relaxing break, the villa offers the services of a concierge and private chef team who live on site and can shop for you and prepare all meals.

You have all the services of a 5 star hotel with the privacy and seclusion of one of the most spacious luxury villas in Paxos – the best of all worlds if you are looking for a complete break.

Villa Glaros – the lower bedrooms

I’ve already described the Gaios master suite and two further bedrooms, Lakka and Loggos in the main part of the villa, now to the additional four bedrooms that are located on the lower level of the villa.

These are a little separate in that they are accessed from the outside, and not connected to the main living spaces. The rooms are self contained and ideal if you have a family group who need two adjoining rooms or couples who want more privacy.

Two bedrooms Ozias and Fontana (named after the prettiest local villages) make a pair that sit side by side and share a private terrace with sun loungers and table to sit outside. Each room has its own en suite marble bathroom with colourful artwork and the same pared back decor and luxurious finishes of the main villa.

To make an enquiry for booking and availability, go to the Villa Glaros website

On the same terrace level and again accessed from the outside are two further rooms, which are slightly larger and have their own shady terrace area with seating and loungers. Delphine is a beautiful white room, which has recently been renovated with the most modern fittings and all white bathroom, with plenty of space for an additional child’s bed or cot if required.

Faros is a self contained suite with small kitchen and indoor sitting area, which is used by the concierge / chef team when they are required in the villa or are available for guest use if the team is not required. This makes Villa Glaros a six / seven bedroom villa with plenty of different options to accommodate extended family groups or groups of friends.

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Swimming pool at Villa Glaros

Many of those planning a Greek holiday will be looking for Paxos villas with pools and Villa Glaros does not disappoint. Walking down through the gardens you’ll reach the swimming pool, which is set a little below the villa, surrounded by gardens and greenery.

There’s lots of room for sunbathing on loungers bedside the pool as well as on a sun-trap terrace just above, with a shallow area of the pool for children to paddle.

Beside the swimming pool is a pool house with small kitchen and a gym as well as shaded area for lunches at the dining table. I could easily imaging lazy days relaxing by the pool with a good book and a few lengths to cool off every so often, in the name of exercise.

The Treehouse at Villa Glaros, Paxos

The path continues down the hill to a charming treehouse set in the woodland which makes a playhouse for children to exercise their imagination as they gaze out to sea.

Who knows what pirates might be spotted on the horizon or what nymphs and fairies may dwell in these woods? It’s the details like this that makes Villa Glaros stand out against other Paxos holiday villas.

Tennis court at Villa Glaros

The villa has everything for those who love to stay fit and active on holiday and I’ve mentioned the gym and pool but there’s more! Set above the house is a beautifully kept tennis court where you can practice your best Wimbledon technique, and of course the concierge can arrange lessons with local instructors if required.

Teenagers and big kids may also enjoy the table tennis that’s in a shady courtyard at the back of the house – there’s something here to keep all ages busy.

To make an enquiry for booking and availability, go to the Villa Glaros website

The Beach at Villa Glaros Paxos

The path continues through the garden to the bottom of the hill, where a pretty wrought iron gate opens to take you down to one of the secluded Paxos beaches that are to be found all over the island.

Of course there’s no such things as a completely private beach in Greece but this is about as close as you can get, since the only other access is from the sea or from a small footpath that runs from the neighbouring villa.

The water here is crystal clear and the beach of pebbles, which is typical all over the island of Paxos. There are paddle boards and kayaks available at the villa for the use of guests and a boat is also available here for the use of villa guests, with a skipper as required.

Being on the more sheltered east side of the island, the water is calm and makes a gorgeous place for a swim or to take one of the kayaks and paddle boards to explore nearby coves.

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Things to do on Paxos while staying at Villa Glaros

Map of Paxos

Check out the Google Map below with marked with the things to do in Paxos that I recommend

Visit Gaios in Paxos

The ferry brings you to the New Port at Gaios, which is a 5 minute drive from Gaios town. Gaios is the island capital and the largest of the three towns on the island, so it’s where you’ll probably head first to sort out car rental, food shopping or boat trips. Since many people visit for the day from Corfu in high season it’s also likely to be the most crowded of the places you visit on Paxos, especially in high season.

But don’t be put off, as Gaios is a pretty little town where you can easily spend a few hours exploring the narrow lanes, sitting in a shady cafe around the main square or shopping in the stylish boutiques and gift shops. The harbour at Gaios is protected by the wooded St Nicholas island which has the remains of an old fort and a church.

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Along the channel between the town and the island is a long harbour front lined with boats, so it’s a delightful stroll beside the water to admire the beautiful yachts and pretty painted fishing boats.

The main square is the heart of the town, open on one side to the harbour, lined with old buildings from the Venetian era, busy cafes and the church of Agios Analipsi which is a landmark in the centre of the square.

At the other end of Gaios, we enjoyed dinner at Carnayo, the pretty stone built restaurant facing the olive groves. The food was excellent and they offer a Greek tasting buffet every Friday which is a great chance to try Greek specialities, with a selection of traditional starters and vegetable dishes as well as meats from the spit cooked over charcoal and some delicious desserts.

Visit Lakka in Paxos

At the northern end of Paxos is Lakka which is only a 15 minute drive from Gaios and a favoured place for yachts since there’s a sheltered harbour. It’s smaller than Gaios, but there are several interesting shops selling local food specialities, fashion and gifts in the narrow alleyways.

There’s plenty of choice of restaurants and cafes, especially along the harbour front. We chose a prime spot for lunch to admire the yachts coming and going at Fanis Bar, where you can equally sit with a coffee or a drink in the evening.

We also returned on another day for an excellent fish lunch at La Rosa di Paxos where the ice cabinet displayed the catch of the day and the tables overlooked the water. For dinner in the evening, we were also recommended to try Taverna Nionios in the square, which serves traditional Greek dishes.

From the harbour you can follow a path around the bay to Lakka Beach, with a pebble beach and a beach bar. The views of the bay from the coast path over the aquamarine water and yachts at anchor are very pretty.

If you have a hire car, you might also want to drive up to the lighthouse (Faros) on the headland close to Lakka and from there walk down to Planos beach, an unspoiled beach where you will only see the occasional person.

Visit Loggos in Paxos

The third of the three small towns on Paxos is Loggos (spelt Longos in Greek) which like Lakka has a pretty harbourfront with numerous bars, cafes and restaurants overlooking the water. We had lunch at the excellent Vasilis Taverna on the waterfront serving delicious Greek and Mediterranean inspired dishes with stylish flair.

One thing to consider in choosing your table is that what appears to be a pedestrian path is actually a road that runs right around the harbour front, so you may have a stream of cars passing you if you sit at the front of the restaurant as we did.

After lunch we walked along to the cluster of bars on the jetty where the larger yachts moor up, where there’s a local bakery to indulge in honey soaked Greek cakes or sweets. We sat with a coffee at the popular Roxi Bar which has a prime view of the harbour and also liked the look of the secluded terrace of Le Rocher Cafe Bar which would be a great spot for a sundowner by the sea.

Take a boat trip in Paxos

Paxos is a sailor’s paradise with countless coves and beaches to explore and so a boat trip is one of the unmissable experiences when staying on the island. Many visitors hire a boat for a few days, but at when staying at Villa Glaros guests are treated to the use of the villa’s own boat and a skipper to take you out.

One of the most popular boats trips is a round-the-island tour, taking in the sheltered east coast where the villa is situated and the rocky west coast where you can explore sea caves and admire the towering cliffs. Another popular boat trip is to the smaller sister island of Antipaxos, where you can have lunch and a swim.

If you are up for a whole day out on the water, then combine these as we did with a morning boat trip around the island, followed by lunch and a swim at Antipaxos, before returning back in the afternoon to Paxos.

The trip down the west coast was especially spectacular and we passed the Tripitos sea arch and explored the blue sea caves and the Ortholithos sea stack making a great photo framed in the cave.

A boat trip to Antipaxos

Our boat trip continued to the smaller sister island of Antipaxos, which is one of the unmissable places to see while staying on Paxos. The island has just a few houses and offers a sandy beach which is a rarity on Paxos. The water is so impossibly clear and aquamarine that it looks as if someone has increased the saturation with a filter.

Antipaxos is reached by boat across a short stretch of sea from the south east corner of Paxos, which is easily achieved for guests at Villa Glaros, since the villa has its own boat and skipper who can take you.

Otherwise you can rent boats almost as easily as renting a car on Paxos, or engage the services of a boat and skipper for a private trip, or take one of the many group boat trips that run regularly from Gaios.

Arriving at Antipaxos, you have the choice of two beaches. The first beach at Vrika is most popular, since there is a landing stage where you can disembark. Settle yourself for a few hours on the sandy beach for sunbathing and swimming, or have lunch and snacks in the beach cafe that is open in the summer season.

The second beach at Voutoumi is more for sailors, since there is no landing stage and the beach is pebble like most on Paxos. Here you can drop anchor and swim from the boat, enjoying the crystal clear water.

There are some paths that lead between the beaches and around the island, which we followed for a little way but gave up in the end as it was so hot and we could not tell where they would lead.

Visit the Tripitos arch

The Tripitos sea arch is a magnet for photographers and one of the most instagrammable spots on Paxos. You can view the arch by boat on one of the island boat trips, but the best views are from the cliffs above, accessed on foot from the closest parking spot on a small road.

Once you reach the cliffs there’s a slightly precarious walk down a steep path, which is easily achievable those who are fit and agile.

You can actually walk over the sea arch and ask your friends to take some fun photos like this, although it looks more dangerous than it actually is. Despite looking as if you are balanced on a knife edge, the path across the arch is actually quite broad, so you can get those images to thrill your friends without actually risking your life!

From this spot there are gorgeous views along the wild west coast of Paxos and across the water to the island of Antipaxos.

Paxos beaches we enjoyed

It goes without saying that there are some fabulous beaches on Paxos, not least the secluded cove that’s immediately below the villa. They are almost all pebble beaches, which the Greeks prefer as it makes for crystal clear water.

I’d recommend that you buy some beach shoes in the local shops to to save your feet or borrow the ones that are in the villa. We visited a number of pretty beaches on Paxos while driving around and can recommend:

• Mongonissi beach – a narrow strip of sand backed by a couple of nice beach restaurants and sheltered harbour for yachts to moor up. This is more crowded than some due to the accommodation close by but a good one for families.

• Lakka beach – a short stroll from Lakka town around the bay, a pebble beach with a beach bar looking out on the gorgeous Lakka bay.

• Plani beach – an isolated beach near Lakka that’s a steep walk down the hill, one for those who want to get away from it all.

• Erimitis beach – on the wild west coast and although not difficult to find there’s hardly any parking, but it’s a spectacular location with high cliffs towering over you.

• Monodendri beach – a pebble beach on the sheltered east coast and worth a visit for the laid back Ben’s Bar where you can rent sunbeds and paddle boards

• There are many other pretty beaches all along the east coast of Paxos and you’ll have fun checking them out if you have a car and go exploring.

How to get to Paxos from Corfu

I mentioned earlier that the Greek island of Paxos does not have an airport. This is a blessing for those looking for an authentic Greek experience, since the lack of mass tourism means that Paxos has remained traditional and unspoiled.

It’s the picturesque Greek island you always dreamed of, attracting sophisticated and cosmopolitan visitors who stay mainly in villas, apartments and the occasional boutique hotel.

The main route to reach Paxos is via the neighbouring island of Corfu, which being a bigger island offers flights from many international destinations.

From Corfu there are a few routes to reach Paxos, and private boat or helicopter transfers can be arranged for guests at Villa Glaros who want both speed and privacy.

The ferry to Corfu to Paxos

Most people arrive on one of the two ferry lines from Corfu, each of which offers sailings of around 3 times a day in the high season.

Kamelia Lines – This ferry line runs from Corfu to Paxos and back three times a day in the summer season and the cost is around €20 per person each way. The ferry line operates two different vessels and depending on which you take the journey time is 60-90 minutes. There is wifi, a toilet and a small selection of snacks on board. The Kamelia Lines ferries carry between 75 and 96 passengers. Advance bookings can be made via email [email protected] or by travel agents.

Ilida II (no website) – This ferry line operates a hydrofoil service from Corfu to Paxos and back 2-3 times a day in the summer season and the cost is around €20 per person each way. The journey time takes 60 minutes and there is wifi, a toilet and a selection of snacks on board. The Ilida II boat is larger than Kamelia lines but otherwise there is little to choose between them (I tried both). Advance bookings can be made via email [email protected] or by travel agents.

How to buy tickets for the ferry from Corfu to Paxos

You can buy tickets in advance for both services by email although this is quite laborious as there is no online payment system so you may have to ring through your credit card details. If you are using a travel agent to plan your holiday, it is better to ask them to make your reservation.

In high season I would recommend making an advance reservation, since you risk not getting the ferry of your choice and then requiring accommodation on Corfu or even missing a flight on the return from Paxos.

In low season you can buy tickets for both the Kamelia Lines and Ilida II services on the day. In Corfu, tickets are on sale at the New Port, from the travel agents opposite the Setti Venti Cafe just across the road from the ferry terminal.

In Paxos there is a small ticket office at the New Port of Gaios from where the ferries go and also a ticket office in Gaios old town. Ferry tickets are not for sale on the boat but pre-booked tickets may sometimes be picked up from the boat if you find the ticket offices at the ferry port closed.

How to get from Corfu airport to Corfu New Port

From Corfu airport it is a 10 minute taxi journey to Corfu New Port where the ferries go from. Kamelia Lines also advertise a bus that they run directly from Corfu airport to Corfu New Port for their customers in high season.

It’s worth knowing that there’s a left luggage desk at Corfu New Port, which we found useful on the return journey as we had a few hours to kill before our flight and left our luggage to have a look around Corfu old town which is within walking distance.

How to get to Paxos New Port

In Paxos, the New Port of Gaios where the ferry operates from is a little distance along the shore from Gaios Old Town. It’s a 5 minute drive between the old town and the New Port or a 15 minute walk along a flat road that runs beside the water.

If you are arriving by ferry at Paxos New Port, you will be met by the Villa Glaros team, but otherwise you should pre-book a taxi or transfer which can be arranged by your accommodation.

Getting to Paxos from the Greek Mainland

For drivers on the Greek mainland, the alternative route to Paxos is via the port of Igoumenitsa from where you can get a ferry to Paxos. Ferries also connect Igoumenitsa to Italy via the port of Bari.

Other resources for Paxos

If you need a guide book for the Greek islands we recommend the DK Eyewitness guide for the Greek Islands and also the Landscapes walking guide to Paxos, which includes walking routes and driving tours.

Even if you are not staying in Paxos, you can enjoy a day trip from Corfu – check out the boat trips to Paxos from Corfu to see the Blue Caves and Antipaxos with a stop at Gaios

Car rental in Paxos

If you have booked a hire car in advance from one of the car rental companies on Paxos, it will normally be left on the quayside at the Gaios New Port with your name on and the keys left in the ignition. This relaxed arrangement may surprise you if you are used to completing endless paperwork at larger airports for car rentals, but it’s normal for the smaller Greek islands. The system is that you will then stop by the car rental office within the next day or so to sort out the paperwork and payment.

We used Alfa Car Hire who have an office in Gaios and found their service to be friendly and efficient. You can make a car reservation from them via email: [email protected] . We recommend that you hire a Group B or above car while staying at Villa Glaros.

We started with a Group A car and found that while it was fine for most roads around the island, it was not quite powerful enough for the steep road down to the villa. You do not necessarily need a big car in size as many of the roads on Paxos are narrow, but you do need a car with a bit of power for the steep hills and rough tracks that lead to many places on the island.

While most main roads around the island are tarmac and in good condition, we found that the road down to Villa Glaros is quite rough, steep and narrow, so you need a car that can cope with this and ideally it’s one for more experienced drivers.

How to book Villa Glaros

To make an enquiry for booking and availability, go to the Villa Glaros website.

Villa Glaros booking includes;

• 6-7 en-suite bedrooms which can be arranged as doubles or twins
• Heated swimming pool with pool house and gym
• Floodlit tennis court
• Treehouse, table tennis, table-top football
• Direct access to a secluded beach
• Kayaks, paddle boards, small sailing boat for use of guests at the beach
• Villa’s own boat and skipper by arrangement to take you on boat trips
• Live in concierge and private chef
• Daily maid service cleaning

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My visit to Paxos was sponsored* by Paxos Villa Greece who provided the villa stay and some of the experiences mentioned.

* More info on my policies page

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com

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