Visit Muscle Shoals Alabama – for music history and more!

For music lovers, Muscle Shoals Alabama is a place of pilgrimage. The town’s vintage billboards proclaim it as the Hit recording capital of the world.

Fans are drawn to visit the recording studios where legendary recording artists. Aretha Franklin, Wilson Pickett, Steve Winwood and the Rolling Stones created hit after hit through the 60s, 70s and 80s. What is it about this small town in North Alabama, on the banks of the Tennessee River, that makes it so special?

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Muscle Shoals on our Alabama Road Trip

I visited Muscle Shoals as part of my Alabama Road Trip, driving from Huntsville in the north, to Gulf Shores in the south. Muscle Shoals is just over an hour’s drive from Huntsville, making it an easy day trip and an essential stop on any musical tour of the Southern States.

The wider area of The Shoals is made up of four cities; Muscle Shoals, Florence, Tuscumbia and Sheffield. These merge into one area straddling the Tennessee River.

Exploring the musical heritage is one of the top things to do in Muscle Shoals AL. Of course there’s much more in the way of delicious food, activities and heritage attractions. You’ll be busy for a few days in this part of northern Alabama.

The Muscle Shoals Documentary

Before you visit, I highly recommend watching the inspiring Muscle Shoals documentary (2013). It celebrates the Fame Studios and Muscle Shoals Sound Studio, including the musings and memories of the producers, musicians and artists who recorded there.

The area is still famous for its music, with many top musicians living in the area to be close to the music studios at Memphis and Nashville. You never quite know who you’ll hear playing in the local bars and music venues!

The Muscle Shoals Sound

Known by the Yuchi Indians who lived here as the Singing River, the Tennessee River meanders lazily through this part of Alabama, creating lakes and swamps on its journey.

Perhaps there was some influence of W. C. Handy, known as the ‘Father of the Blues’, who was born in Muscle Shoals, in the funky, soulful Southern sound that became synonymous with the area. Sam Phillips of Sun Records was also born nearby. Later he left to work in Memphis where he produced records for Elvis Presley, Roy Orbison and Jerry Lee Lewis.

The role played by record producer Rick Hall, owner of the FAME Studios, was key to the Muscle Shoals Sound. Hall had a drive for perfection and an ability to turn out hits. This drew top artists from labels like Atlantic Records to Muscle Shoals, to record at the original studios that he started.

FAME Studio’s original group of session musicians became known as The Swampers. They later moved on to create their own Muscle Shoals Recording Studio, providing the backing for well known bands.

Enormously talented musicians in their own right, these local white boys were steeped in the musical tradition of the South. All of these musical influences came together to create the Muscle Shoals Sound. It drew both white and black artists to work here, in recording studios where colour was no issue and music was the unifying force.

The Muscle Shoals Sound Studio

‘Muscle Shoals it has the Swampers‘, sang Lynyrd Skynyrd in their hit song Sweet Home Alabama, but who were The Swampers? I found the answer behind the door of an inconspicuous former coffin showroom on Jackson Highway that became the Muscle Shoals Sound Studio.

The four session musicians were Barry Beckett (keyboards), Roger Hawkins (drums), Jimmy Johnson (guitar) and David Hood (bass). They originally worked for Rick Hall as the rhythm section at FAME Studios. In 1969 they decided to break away and set up on their own.

At the new Muscle Shoals recording studio, these talented session musicians quickly built a reputation. It attracted artists like Cher, Rod Stewart, Paul Simon and the Rolling Stones to record there. As Clarence Carter said in the Muscle Shoals Documentary, “Each time a person went to Muscle Shoals, they came out of there with a hit.”

Muscle Shoals Sound Studio tour

The studio is still in use by musicians, but it now mainly acts as a museum. Tour the small recording studio with its historic recording equipment, when you can hear some of the stories of what these music legends got up to.

Furnished in shades-of-brown 1970s style, the waiting room is like being in a music hall of fame. Survey the many hit record albums and gold discs displayed on the walls.

In 1978, the Swampers had outgrown the studio at 3614 Jackson Highway and moved to a larger premises. This is now renamed the Cypress Moon Studios and occasionally open for musical events.

After your Muscle Shoals Sound Studio tour, you can take a photo on the same porch where the Rolling Stones stood after they recorded Brown Sugar and Wild Horses. Stand at the front where Cher was photographed together with The Swampers for the cover of her first solo album, 3614 Jackson Highway.

In the car park, next to the airstream trailer, there’s one of the original Muscle Shoals, hit recording capital of the world billboards that once stood by the road into town.

The Muscle Shoals Studios are open Tuesday to Saturday with tours every half hour (Address: 3614 Jackson Highway). Check the website or ring ahead to book a tour as schedules may change depending on whether the studio is in use. You can also check availability and book tour tickets in advance here.

To find out about the funky sounds of Muscle Shoals, watch the Muscle Shoals Documentary on Amazon Prime – if you don’t already have Amazon Prime, get a 30 day free trial here.

The Fame Studios Muscle Shoals

FAME Studios was the original recording studio in Muscle Shoals, (‘where it all started’ according to their logo) run by legendary record producer Rick Hall. From the 1960s, the FAME recording studio was where hit after hit was recorded

This is where Aretha Franklin found her sound, where Wilson Pickett cut Mustang Sally and where Rick Hall was named as Producer of the Year in 1971.

Rick Hall and FAME Studios

As I discovered from watching the Muscle Shoals Documentary, Rick Hall was a complex and driven man. Born into a poor local family, he was raised by his father when his mother left the family after the tragic death of his baby brother.

Later life dealt him more tragedy in the death of his wife in a car accident. Despite struggles with depression and heavy drinking, he was always driven to succeed, to make up for his difficult start in life.

According to the musicians that worked with him, he was a both a pleasure and a pain to work with. His drive for perfection meant that musicians and artists would often have to perform the same song over and over until he got the sound he was looking for.

The result was a string of hits, with numerous gold albums and top selling singles recorded at FAME Studios. This inspired other recording studios such as Wishbone Studios to set up in the Muscle Shoals area.

Although Rick Hall passed away in 2018, FAME Muscle Shoals has gone through a major restoration in partnership with Beats Electronics. In addition to supporting young musicians, FAME still operates as a recording studio.

Artists are attracted to record with both cutting edge and vintage equipment. With such a musical legacy, FAME recording studios have been placed on the National Register of Landmarks and Heritage.

FAME Studios Tour

Visitors can also tour the studio when it’s not in use, with two regular daily tours during the week and more tours at weekends. During the tour you’ll visit the studios and see many of the original instruments and equipment used to record the hit records. You’ll hear the stories behind well known tracks. Check the website for tour details and times before you book. Address: 603 Avalon Avenue, Muscle Shoals.

To find out about the funky sounds of Muscle Shoals, watch the Muscle Shoals Documentary on Amazon Prime – if you don’t already have Amazon Prime, get a 30 day free trial here.

Where to hear live music in Muscle Shoals and Florence Alabama

FAME Studios and Muscle Shoals Sound Studios are no longer as active as they were in the 60s and 70s. However, they still operate as recording studios and there are many more recording studios in the area inspired by their success.

The Shoals area attracts numerous musicians, with a tradition of live music that you’ll want to dip into while you are here. Here are some of the places in Muscle Shoals and Florence Alabama that host live music. Check their websites for what’s on when you visit, or look at the event listings on the Visit Florence website.

Live music in Florence Alabama

• FloBama – Family friendly BBQ restaurant, with a wide range of live music in downtown Florence.
• Shoals Community Theatre – Once a movie house, now a community theatre in downtown Florence, with a varied programme of music and theatre.
• Swampers Bar and Grille – Casual dining within the Marriott Hotel, with lots of music industry memorabilia and live music every evening.
• The Boiler Room – One for sports lovers, with bowling, darts, shuffleboard and casual dining menu as well as live music.
• On the Rocks – A traditional American style pub with burgers and live music most nights.
• Lil Capone’s Bar and Grill – Authentic Italian food, bar and daily live music.
• High Ridge Spirits Distillery – Bar and distillery serving, vodka, gin and other spirits with cocktails and live music Tuesday – Friday evenings.

Live Music in Muscle Shoals Alabama

• Ray’s at the Bank – Seafood and Southern dishes with live music on Fridays and Saturdays.
• Champy’s Chicken – Local diner chain with famous fried chicken and southern comfort food, live music in the evenings.
• Birdy’s Sports Grill – Bar, golf simulator, virtual reality machines, bar snacks and live music.

Live Music in Tuscumbia Alabama

• Rattlesnake Saloon – Outdoor venue attached to the Seven Springs Lodge with hiking and riding trails, and live music events held under an overhanging rock.

The W. C. Handy Home and Museum

W. C. Handy, known as the ‘Father of the Blues’, was born in 1873 in a simple wooden cabin in Florence Alabama. It has been restored as a museum to celebrate his life.

From childhood, William Christopher Handy showed musical talent. He was influenced by birdsong and sounds of the natural world, as well as the church music that surrounded him.

As a pastor his father disapproved of popular music, but Handy bought a guitar secretly and later joined a local band where he played the cornet.

Moving to St Louis Mississippi, W. C. Handy scraped a living as an itinerant musician. He was influenced by the folk songs of the African American workers in the cotton fields. Later he popularised the musical style that became known as the Blues, with pieces such as St Louis Blues, Beale Street Blues and Memphis Blues.

Moving to New York, Handy became one of the most influential band leaders, musical entrepreneurs and publishers in America from the 1920s to the 40s. His compositions were performed by celebrated artists such as Louis Armstrong, Ella Fitzgerald and Eartha Kitt.

Visit the W. C. Handy Home and Museum

The W. C. Handy Birthplace & Museum is furnished as it would have been during his childhood. Original sheet music of Handy’s compositions is at the piano where he is said to have played St Louis Blues for the first time.

Check the website before visiting for tour opportunities. The museum is located at 620 West College Street, Florence, Alabama.

W. C. Handy Music Festival

If you love American blues, folk and jazz music, you can time your visit to the Shoals area with the W.C. Handy Music Festival. The event is held around Muscle Shoals and Florence in July, with musical events held at multiple locations throughout the Shoals.

This week long event celebrates the musical heritage of northwest Alabama, to honour W. C. Handy the ‘Father of the Blues’, who was born in Florence. The W. C. Handy Blues festival hosts multiple events including small scale and headline concerts, art exhibitions, food stalls and events. Check the event website and social media channels for latest information on the live and virtual events planned.

Once you’ve explored all the musical connections in the Shoals there are still more things to do in Muscle Shoals and Florence Alabama that I can recommend.

Shopping in Muscle Shoals and Florence Al

Of the areas I visited in The Shoals, historic downtown Florence had the most upscale feel. This is where I’d recommend you head for the best shopping, independent boutiques, bars and restaurants.

Billy Reid Clothing – If you love fashion, be sure to pop into the Billy Reid flagship store on the main street in downtown Florence. This leading US fashion designer hails from Florence AL and has his design studio here. In the store you’ll find luxury clothing for men and women that’s known for its casual elegance.

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Alabama Chanin – Known for upscale, sustainable and thoughtfully designed clothing and homeware, Alabama Chanin is a big name in Florence. The flagship store and cafe is set in an old industrial building. The Factory also hosts sewing workshops and community events.

Frank Lloyd Wright Rosenbaum House

In a suburb of Florence, is the Frank Lloyd Wright Rosenbaum house, designed by renowned American architect Frank Lloyd Wright. He was known for his concept of Organic Architecture, with buildings designed to fit into their landscape. His construction with local materials and a holistic design approach extends to the interior furnishings and gardens.

The Rosenbaum House was built in 1939 for newlyweds Stanley and Mildred Rosenbaum and is an example of Wright’s Usonian design. After the great depression of the 1930s, the architect wanted to make his Usonian house plans widely available. His goal was to enable every middle class American family to afford a well designed family home.

Tours of the Frank Lloyd Wright house in Alabama

Everything in the house was designed by Frank Lloyd Wright, including the furniture and Japanese style garden. The house itself is relatively small, despite being extended as the Rosenbaum’s family grew.

Wright’s philosophy was that as much time as possible should be spent outside enjoying nature. Frank Lloyd Wright’s Rosenbaum House is open to the public as a museum to visit on a 45 minute guided tour. Check the website for opening times.

Read more about the culture of Southern Alabama: 11 cool things to do in Mobile, Alabama

Helen Keller House – Ivy Green

While you’re in the Shoals area, it’s worth visiting Ivy Green, the birthplace of Helen Keller at Tuscumbia. As a baby, disease had left Helen Keller deaf and blind, but with the help of her teacher Anne Sullivan she learned to communicate.

There’s a sculpture of Helen at the water pump, and you can also see the original pump behind the main house. This pump enabled Helen to learn her first word – water.

Built in 1820, the Helen Keller House at Ivy Green is a simple, white clapboard home, typical of Southern architecture in the 19th century. The house is furnished as it was when Helen Keller grew up there. You can see some of her shoes and toys as well as the desk and braille book in her bedroom where she studied.

Helen went on to school and college, working throughout her life to help others who were blind and deaf. If you happen to be visiting in June, you may be able to time your visit with the Helen Keller festival that celebrates her life and work.

The house is open most days for guided tours. You can see the carriage house, gardens and cottage where Helen spent most of her time learning with teacher Anne Sullivan. Check the website for opening times.

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More things to do in Muscle Shoals

There’s lots more to see, so if you have time check out these Muscle Shoals attractions.

Museums

• Alabama Music Hall of Fame – Located in Tuscumbia, so easily combined with a visit to the Helen Keller Birthplace. This museum pays tribute to Alabama’s greatest music achievers.
• Tuscumbia Railroad Depot Museum – Near Spring Park is the restored 1888 train depot. It’s now a small museum with train memorabilia and a display of old trains on the rail tracks outside.
• Indian Mound and Museum – A good place to learn about the Indian tribes who populated this area. View artefacts, carvings and a 43 ft high earth mound.
• Earl Peanutt Montgomery Music Museum – Located in Sheffield Alabama, this small museum is dedicated to the country music songwriter Earl ‘Peanutt’ Montgomery who was also a session musician in Muscle Shoals. Tours by appointment.

Outdoor activities

• Spring Park – Named after the spring that runs through it, this green space in Tuscumbia is often used for festivals and concerts. There’s a man made waterfall, narrow gauge train, play area for the children and a fountain that shoots jets into the air.
• River Heritage Park – In Florence, overlooking the Wilson Dam on the Tennessee River, close to the Marriott Hotel is River Heritage Park. On hot days, the children will enjoy playing in the splash pad fountains and there’s also a playground, picnic area and restrooms.
• Wilson Lock and Dam – This impressive structure spanning the river between Florence and Muscle Shoals is worth a look. It was completed in the 1920s to improve navigation along the Tennessee River. There’s a pedestrian walkway onto the dam, from where you can see the barges passing through the lock.
• The Old Railroad Bridge – Originally constructed in 1832, this metal bridge spans the Tennessee river. It was partially destroyed during the Civil war but has been restored. You can walk or cycle across to get great views of Florence from the river.
• Pickwick Lake – Nature lovers will enjoy the 50 mile stretch of the Tennessee River between Wilson Dam in Florence and Pickwick Dam. This broad reservoir of Pickwick Lake is a popular place to visit in summer for outdoor activities such as fishing, kayaking and swimming. The lake is also home to many species of birds, including the bald eagles that nest near the town of Waterloo.
• The Robert Trent Jones Golf Trail – for golf lovers the RTJ Golf trail offers two 18 hole championship golf courses within the Shoals area. The Fighting Joe golf course and The Schoolmaster golf course, both overlooking the Tennessee River.

Restaurants in Muscle Shoals and Florence Al

As the largest of the Shoals neighbourhoods, historic downtown Florence offers the widest choice of dining. This is where I’d head if you are unsure of what or where you’d like to eat. Read on for the restaurants in Florence and Muscle Shoals that I personally tried and those that are recommended by reputation.

Champy’s Chicken

In Muscle Shoals I can recommend Champy’s Fried Chicken, a roadside diner that’s part of a small group of restaurants around the Southern USA. There’s a certain 50s style in the melamine tabletops and checked PVC tablecloths. Check out the jukebox and neon signs, car and college memorabilia around the walls.

This is where you can really get into the Southern style of cuisine. Order a basket of succulent fried chicken cooked to order, served with sides of slaw, baked beans or French fries.

Champy’s Chicken is a great place to stop for lunch after visiting the Muscle Shoals Sound Studio. They often host live music in the evenings or during festivals, so check the website to see what’s on.

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Odette

I enjoyed dinner at Odette in downtown Florence, which is less of the home cooking and more of the refined American fare. The neighbourhood restaurant is named after the owner’s grandmother whose portrait hangs on the wall.

It’s all seasonal and sustainable with a nod to Southern flavours and seems to be the go-to restaurant for foodies in the Shoals area. The restaurant’s chefs have won prizes for dishes such as their Gulf snapper escabeche, in Alabama culinary competitions.

Odette is open through the day for lunch, brunch and dinner. I tried a couple of the smaller plates – the strawberry salad with pesto and an amazing charcuterie board.

It was impressive that the server was able to recite the names of each of the dozen or more local cheeses, pickles and cured meats. Cocktails, wines and beer are also available at the bar, if you just want to relax with a drink.

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More restaurants in Muscle Shoals and Florence

Other places to eat and drink in the Shoals area that I haven’t personally visited but are worth checking out include;

Wildwood Tavern – A lively bar in Florence that’s known for its hot dogs, craft beer and cocktails. There’s a games room filled with pinball machines, skeeball and jukebox. Their motto is ‘Keep Florence funky’.

Singin’ River Brewing Company – The Shoal’s first Craft Brewery in Florence Al, with a tap room where you can try all their beers. They host weekly community events and there’s outdoor patio serving food.

Ricatoni’s Italian Grill – Owned by local restaurateur Rick Elliott, it offers fresh modern Italian cuisine. It boasts one of the only handmade brick pizza ovens in the state.

Trowbridge’s – Established 100 years ago, this retro diner and soda fountain in downtown Florence, serves creamy ice cream sundaes, milk shakes and lunchtime sandwiches.

Dick Howell’s – This no frills BBQ joint in north Florence has been in business since 1947. They serve all the BBQ favourites to dine in or take out, famous for their barbecue sandwich with hot slaw.

Bunyan’s Bar-B-Que – Mostly take out with a small inside seating area, serving hot dogs, their own special slaw and pulled pork BBQ sandwich.

Turbo Coffee – A great little coffee shop on the ground floor of the Gunrunner hotel where I stayed. They serve excellent coffee, healthy smoothies and acai bowls.

360 Grille revolving restaurant – Located on the top floor of the Marriott Hotel, this upscale restaurant gives the best views over Florence and the Tennessee River.

Garden Gate Cafe – Well known in the Tuscumbia area for reasonably priced, homemade Southern-style comfort food.

Hotels in Muscle Shoals and Florence Alabama

Gunrunner Boutique Hotel

For music lovers and stylish travellers, the Gunrunner Boutique Hotel in Florence Al has to be the place to stay. Its ten quirky and individually designed suites are themed on local places and personalities from the music business, tapping into the musical legends associated with Muscle Shoals.

Gunrunner is unassuming on the outside. The square brick building was once a car showroom with a central lift to take cars up to the first floor. Entrance to the hotel and rooms is via key code so you come and go as if it was your home. A roof terrace is a fun place to relax with a drink in the evening.

Climb the stairs past the old Harley motorbike and you’ll reach the huge central bar area, with wood beams, brick walls and slouchy vintage furniture. Each of the suites leads directly off this common area. You feel a bit as if you are in some rockstar’s home with guitars and memorabilia scattered around.

Music themed suites at The Gunrunner Hotel

I stayed in the Sam Phillips suite, named for the legendary record producer, who was born in Florence Alabama and managed stars like Elvis Presley and Jerry Lee Lewis under his Sun Records label.

My room was enormous with a retro sitting area, guitar ready for me to strum, a bar to mix a drink for any visiting music stars and en suite bathroom with claw foot bath and separate shower.

The Billy Reid suite is named after the leading fashion designer who has his studio in Florence Al and is known for his understated but elegant American designs. Check out his designs in the flagship store on the main street of downtown Florence.

The Single Lock Suite is named after the American record label based in Florence, and celebrates the owners and artists of the label in the furnishings and memorabilia.

Muscle Shoals Sound Suite pays homage to the Muscle Shoals Sound Studio and the legendary artists who recorded there. Other suites are themed for architect Frank Lloyd Wright and The Lion’s den with the lion being the mascot of local Alabama University.

Gunrunner Boutique Hotel | 310 E Tennessee Street, Florence, Alabama | Check prices for other hotels in Florence

More hotels in Florence and Muscle Shoals

Other hotels to check out in the Shoals area include;

The Stricklin – a stylish boutique hotel with 24 guest rooms in Downtown Florence, overlooking the main street.

Marriott Shoals Hotel and Spa – If you prefer a resort style hotel, the Marriott Shoals Hotel and Spa is located a little outside Florence, on the banks of the Tennessee River, with classic style and all the amenities of a larger hotel.

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If you’d like to explore more places I visited on my Alabama Road trip, read about 20 things to do in Birmingham Alabama

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Map of things to do in Muscle Shoals

Check out all the places we’ve mentioned on this handy map of the best things to do in Muscle Shoals and Florence, Alabama.