While on holiday walking in Austria, Headwater walking tours had taken us along the picturesque Gaistal Valley, up to the high peak of Seefelder Spitz, and we’d enjoyed the traditional Rifleman’s parade at Seefeld.
On our final day of hiking in Austria, my friend Julia and I found that the best was yet to come. We explored the wild, rocky landscapes of the Leutasch valley and the picturesque painted houses of Mittenwald. Finally we enjoyed a lakeside walk through glorious mountain scenery.
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From Hotel Xander we took a 10 minute taxi ride down the valley to the entrance of the Leutasch Gorge. Leutasch Gorge spans the border between Leutasch Austria and Germany.
On reading the information signs it was clear that we were entering a mysterious watery realm, owned by the fairies and goblins that live in the gorge, where the water swirls in a fast moving torrent between high rocky cliffs.
Hiking in Austria
Along the wooded path we took the turning that leads into the gorge itself, along metal walkways. We could see the water foaming in pools of milky-green below us. The metal walkways, a complex feat of engineering completed in 2005, followed one side of the gorge until we crossed a bridge to the other side.
Dizzyingly far below us, the rushing water made a ribbon of green. Above us the pine trees shot tall towards the sky from the grey rocky side of the gorge.
We walked in dappled sunshine, stopping every now and then to read the information boards. We enjoyed stories of mountain fairies and learned the dramatic names of this watery world, such as Hell’s Bridge and the Devil’s Cauldron.
Entering the Leutasch Gorge
At the end of our walk through the main gorge, the path descended to a cafe and kiosk where we found the entrance to a smaller gorge. While the main gorge walk had been free, we now paid €3 to enter the gorge.
The charge is to see the rushing waterfall at the end, which was well worth the additional cost. This time the gorge was narrow and the air refreshingly cool. We zig-zagged along the walkway just above the green-blue water.
After 10 minutes we reached the waterfall at the end of the gorge, a deafening torrent of water that created spray all around us. Although the day had been warm, I was pleased to have my waterproof jacket to stay dry. I found a small alcove to the side of the viewing platform to unpack my camera for a quick photo.
Mittenwald hikes in the Leutasch valley
Retracing our steps along the walkway through the gorge, Julia and I stopped to eat our picnic lunch by a flower filled meadow. Then we followed our printed notes from Headwater Holidays to follow the river past pretty Alpine houses. Our goal was to reach the town Mittenwald on the German side of the border.
As we entered the centre of Mittenwald we noticed the painted houses for which the town is well known. The murals often have a religious story or meaning behind them. The local tourist office runs guided tours where you can discover more about them.
We walked along the main pedestrianised street, past many attractive pavement cafes. At the end we reached the painted church tower of St. Peter and Paul. We found a shady cafe to have a beer and then inquired at the tourist office about the bus up to the lakes of Lautersee and Ferchensee above Mittenwald Gorge.
Other hotel guests had recommended these lakes, and since I’d hurt my ankle in a fall on the first day, we were looking for a gentle walk. The arduous Frenchman’s Climb described in the Headwater Holidays walking notes would wait for another day.
Enquiring at the tourist office we were directed to the train station. We found the number 1 bus to take us up to the two lakes, from where we could walk back down into Mittenwald.
Lake Ferchensee
The bus dropped us off at the furthest lake of Ferchensee, at a convenient cafe with cheerful yellow sun umbrellas. We couldn’t resist stopping for an apple strudel and a creamy iced coffee.
Our table on the lakeside terrace was perfectly placed to watch the trout and larger perch swimming around the jetty. This scene was pure Austrian holiday brochure.
As the afternoon wore on and the sun cast its golden glow across the lake, it was tempting to just sit and enjoy the idyllic mountain scenery. Reluctantly we continued on the lake side path, knowing that if we delayed too long we’d miss the last bus from Mittenwald back to our hotel.
We reached the grassy swimming place where Julia decided to go for a swim. I waited on a bench while she gently breaststroked up and down serenely like a swan.
Lake Lautersee
At the end of the lake, the path took us through forest past a pretty little shrine. In another 15 minutes we reached the second lake of Lautersee. Not daring to stop too long we continued as the track took us now steeply down to Mittenwald. We passed several cascades and waterfalls which streamed down the mountain.
By half past six we were down at Mittenwald again, with the evening sun lighting up the grey crag above us. Returning to the bus station we found the bus that would drop us back at our hotel in Leutasch after a day of enjoying the landscapes of Austria and Southern Germany.
It was a fabulous finale to our four days of walking with Headwater Holidays. I hope you’ll also enjoy reading about the other walks from this trip;
Day 1 – A high mountain walk (and a tumble) in the Gaistal Valley of Austria. We set out from our hotel hoping to sample the local food served in the mountain huts of the valley but changed our plans when I took a tumble and had to hobble down the mountain.
Day 2 – Hiking in Austria – the views from the cross at Seefelder Spitze. We took the cable car from Seefeld up the ridge of Seefelder Spitze for 360 degree views over Seefeld and the surrounding valleys.
Day 3 – Hiking in Austria – a Rifleman’s Parade and Mental Power Walk at Seefeld. We joined a traditional parade with local regiments in colourful uniforms, then walked back to our hotel along a forest walking trail with relaxation stations on the theme of mental wellbeing.
Want to go walking in Austria’s Leutasch Valley?
Heather’s walking holiday in Austria’s Leutasch Valley was provided by Headwater Holidays. This 7 night walking holiday is based in Kirchplaztl at the 4 star Hotel Xander.
There are over 450km of walking trails accessible direct from the hotel or via local bus, taxi and lifts. The holiday includes a full programme of self-guided day walks. There are 1 boot or 2 boot levels, depending on whether you prefer the gentle valley walks or the more challenging high altitude trails which are sometimes accessed via chair lifts and cable cars. Also included are detailed walking guides and maps, breakfast and dinner at the hotel, a packed lunch on walking days and flights/ transfers via Innsbruck. Prices from £669 per person.
Headwater Holidays are a leading UK specialist in self-guided walking, cycling and relaxed activity holidays. These holidays allow you to travel at your own pace and get closer to the places you visit. For more information check their Website | Facebook | Twitter | YouTube | Pinterest | Instagram
More things to do in the Tirol region of Austria
For more information on things to do in the Tirol region of Austria visit the Tirol tourism website. Follow their social media channels Blog | Twitter | Facebook | Instagram | Pinterest. More information about things to do in Austria on the Visit Austria Website. Information on the Seefeld Region can be found on the Seefeld Olympia Region Website.
How to get to Leutasch Valley, Austria
Heather flew from Bristol to Munich with BMI Regional. They fly 12 times each week on this route, so you often have a choice of 2 flights per day. The ticket includes 20kg checked baggage and full at-seat in-flight bar and snack service at no extra charge.
Transfers from Innsbruck airport are less than 1 hour’s drive to Leutasch and included in your Headwater Holidays package. If, like us you fly into Munich Airport, the transfer to Leutasch Valley takes around 2 hours and can be arranged through your hotel or holiday provider.
Stay at Sporthotel Xander in Leutasch
Heather stayed at Sporthotel Xander in Leutasch as part of the walking holiday booked through Headwater Holidays. The hotel is a very comfortable 4 star hotel offering rooms, suites and apartments that are ideal for summer walkers or winter cross-country skiers.
The other guests when we stayed at the end of August were mainly couples and a few families enjoying a late summer walking break. The hotel is used by several walking companies including Headwater Holidays.
We stayed on a full board basis, with breakfast, packed lunch and evening meal. Our food was of a very high standard with a 4 course meal every night and a 5 course gala meal on one of the nights we were there.
The hotel has an indoor pool and spa although we did not use them since we were out all day walking and making the most of the fine weather. The hamlet of Kirchplatzl where the hotel is situated is mainly residential. The nearest shops are a 15 minute walk away in Weidach. The bus to Seefeld which runs several times a day stops right by the hotel.
We think Hotel Xander is a comfortable, traditional hotel that will suit keen walkers who want a quiet and relaxing atmosphere. If you are looking for a lively atmosphere, shopping or evening entertainment then Seefeld would be a good alternative base. Check prices and book your stay here.
Read more articles about how to prepare for a hiking trip here:
How to choose the perfect waterproof jacket for your hiking holiday
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This article was sponsored* by Headwater Holidays who hosted Heather’s walking holiday and BMI regional who provided Heather’s flight to Munich.
* More info on my policies page
This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com
suraj vishwakarma
Tuesday 10th of May 2016
amazing post on your hike, loved reading it!I love the pictures, these are alive.I hope i will do hike one day Thank you for sharing with us
Heather Cowper
Wednesday 11th of May 2016
@Suraj Thanks, glad you enjoyed it
lifedreamadventure
Thursday 10th of December 2015
Very nice photos and beautiful coverage. Heather, some scenes are alike of Kali Gandaki gorge (deepest gorge) in Annapurna region of Nepal. Love to see this place, hope I can hike one day. Thank you for interesting story.
apm
Friday 27th of November 2015
This is very unique. nice place.
the-worldwide
Friday 27th of November 2015
Excellent place. I love the pictures, these are alive.
Sand In My Suitcase
Wednesday 25th of November 2015
The Leutasch Gorge looks amazing! We love hiking, but have never gone on a dedicated hiking trip. We like the idea of self-guided hiking trips too. We googled and Headwater Holidays will move your bags from hotel to hotel if moving around. (Wasn't sure if one stays put in the same hotel with Headwater and fan out for daytrips form there, or if you can hike from hotel to hotel.) Thanks for the recommendation!
Heather Cowper
Friday 27th of November 2015
@Sandinmysuitcase You can do both travel styles - we had one hotel where we stayed and then did day trips for different walks each day. There are some trips, especially the cycling ones where the luggage is taken for you each day, which we have done in the past.