Edinburgh in winter – 15 things to do in Edinburgh for culture lovers

Edinburgh is a fantastic city break destination at any time of year. The guidebooks often tell you to visit in summer for the Edinburgh Fringe Festival or at New Year for Hogmanay.

But let’s face it, Scotland’s capital is packed at those times. So, if you’d like to enjoy all the top sights and world class culture, but have them pretty much to yourself, I can recommend Edinburgh in winter for a short break.

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On a visit for a couple of days in January I found a fantastic range of things to do in Edinburgh. I explored art galleries and theatre, photogenic architecture and scenic views of the castle.

Bright, clear days were the norm, but the weather may sometimes turn against you. However, you’re never far from one of Edinburgh’s free museums to entertain you with a dose of Scottish culture.

Day 1 – let’s explore Edinburgh West End and New Town

1. Edinburgh’s West End – for elegant architecture and shopping

I spent my first morning exploring Edinburgh’s West End, a mainly residential area. You’ll find some charming boutiques and cafes down the smaller cobbled streets.

From the main thoroughfare of Prince’s Street, a 5 minute walk along Shandwick Place will bring you to the imposing Gladstone memorial. It’s set in the green space of Coates Crescent backed by elegant 19th century houses. Several embassies are also located in this neighborhood.

Discover 3 impressive castles in Scotland – Edinburgh, Stirling and Perth

I continued my stroll north from the crescent. Here there are fine sandstone houses and green squares that are partly residential and partly used for offices.

Look out for Stafford Street and William Street which are charmingly cobbled. There’s a row of cute boutiques, galleries and cafes where you can do some shopping and stop for morning coffee.

I popped into the Roots Deli for a cup of warming soup to ward off the cold. Their rainbow salads and cakes looked very tempting, but it was not long since I’d had breakfast. I mentally earmarked this for lunch on another occasion.

If you want to explore Edinburgh’s food scene, why not take this 3 hour guided secret food tour

2. Dean Village – by the Water of Leith

From the West End I recommend you walk down to Edinburgh’s Dean Village. This scenic spot set by the river goes by the equally picturesque name of the Water of Leith.

The area was once a hub of industry full of woolen mills. At its heart is Well Court, the Victorian sandstone building that was created as model housing for the mill workers and has recently been restored.

Most people visit to take lots of photos from the two footbridges that cross the river. You can also follow the Water of Leith Walkway as far as the port of Leith on the Firth of Forth.

I headed in the opposite direction towards the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art. A landslip on the path meant that I had to divert onto the road, which was not quite so scenic. Even so I’d try the river walk to the museum if you visit in the future as it may have been repaired.

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3. Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art

While you’re in Edinburgh’s West End, it makes sense to combine your walk to Dean Village with a look at the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art. This is in the same area and one of the less well known Edinburgh attractions.

In fact there are two separate art galleries known as Modern One and Modern Two. They are on opposite sides of the road and very close to each other. Between them they house Scotland’s collection of modern and contemporary art.

Most of the permanent collections and outdoor sculptures are in Modern One. Modern Two mainly hosts special exhibitions.

Modern Two – at the Scottish National Gallery

Had I realized the difference between the two galleries, I probably would have headed first to Modern One to see the free galleries. But, as I happened to arrive first at Modern Two, I took a look at the exhibition by Portuguese artist, Paula Rego Obedience and Defiance (now finished).

The exhibition included 80 prints and paintings, with a film about the work of Paula Rego. Rego was born in 1935 and grew up under the Portuguese Salazar dictatorship.

The paintings were colorful and striking but also extremely thought provoking. They dealt with difficult topics like political tyranny, abortion and gender inequality, often with hidden messages and underlying menace.

The art at Modern Two is not just confined to the galleries, and I enjoyed the stairwell transformed into an artwork by Richard Wright. A towering robot like metal figure takes up all the double height of the museum café.

There’s a handy museum bus that shuttles every hour between the three National Galleries that are in different parts of Edinburgh. You can easily get a ride between the Modern and the National Gallery.

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4. Edinburgh New Town

Old Town, New Town, what’s the difference in Edinburgh? Well, the Old Town is the Medieval quarter around Edinburgh Castle that includes the Royal Mile and tends to be where most tourists head first. It can get pretty busy in summer as visitors spill out from the castle to be caught up in the tartan shops and whisky bars.

The New Town is actually not that new, since it was laid out in the mid 18th century. It enabled the wealthy classes to escape the narrow streets, overcrowding and stinky smells of the Medieval Old Town. Don’t worry though, it’s quite clean today!

Laid out in a grid pattern, New Town is an early example of town planning. Its classic Georgian architecture, grand townhouses and wide boulevards forms part of the UNESCO World Heritage site of Edinburgh.

Along Prince’s Street and George Street you’ll find all the major high street fashion brands. In between these there are some smaller streets and lanes, that are interesting to explore.

Rose Street – in Edinburgh New Town

I especially enjoyed my walk along Rose Street which is pedestrianized. It is formerly the back entrance of the grand houses on the parallel streets.

Now it’s full of interesting pubs and bars where you can try anything from the local beer to a Scottish Whisky tasting. It’s one of the best places for shopping and eating out in Edinburgh.

Culture lovers will enjoy climbing the Scott Monument dedicated to Sir Walter Scott or a visit to the National Scottish Portrait Gallery. Or, catch an alternative comedy show from Gilded Balloon.

For more of what’s on in the New Town area check out the Edinburgh City Centre website. They offer their own gift card that you can spend in 90 city center shops, bars and restaurants.

5. Scottish National Portrait Gallery in New Town Edinburgh

If you have spent the morning exploring some of the places I’ve already mentioned, you might like to squeeze in an afternoon visit to the Scottish National Portrait Gallery on Queen Street. The Gallery was purpose built in the late 19th century in the fashionable neo-Gothic style of the time. It was designed to house portraits of well known Scottish heroes.

The entrance hall is an artwork in itself, with colorful murals around the atrium. The frieze that runs at first floor level depicts famous Scots over the centuries.

I bypassed the main galleries that house portraits of notable Scots like Mary Queen of Scots or Rabbie Burns. Instead I focused on the contemporary portraits that I found much more interesting, in the BP Portrait Awards Exhibition.

BP Portrait Awards Exhibition

In the past portraits seemed to be designed to flatter the subject and enhance their importance, but these days the subject can be an everyday person. The job of the artist is to give some insight into their personality or situation.

I found it fascinating to read the explanations beside each portrait, such as the Three Oncologists by Ken Currie. At first glance these seem to be spooky figures. You come to understand that their job as perceived by the artist, is about going into the darkness of cancer to rescue patients and bring them into the light.

6. Catch an alternative comedy show from Gilded Balloon

If you’re looking for some alternative comedy and entertainment in Edinburgh, check out the productions from Gilded Balloon at various venues. I stopped by for a performance that was part of the Burns and Beyond program running up to Burns night, when the birthday of Scotland’s national poet Rabbie Burns is celebrated.

There’s no shortage of recognition for male Scottish icons. But, the performance of Armour: A Herstory of the Scottish Bard reset the balance. It tells the story of Rabbie Burns from a women’s point of view.

In the intimate theatre space, with tables laid out cabaret style, the female cast of three were completely transfixing as they told their stories as the wife, mistress and granddaughter of the poet Robert Burns.

They wove in poetry and song to tell how life went on, while the great bard was off doing his important work of writing Scotland’s favorite poems and how his legacy continued in their lives after his death. This performance was for one night only but it’s typical of the kind of thing you might see at the Edinburgh Fringe, proving that you can find great theatre in Edinburgh all year round, not just in summer!

If you enjoy comedy and storytelling, why not try out this Mountebank Comedy Walk around Edinburgh hosted by a professional comedian?

7. Cocktails at Tiger Lily, Edinburgh

Looking for a quick bite to eat before the theatre I spotted Tiger Lily on George Street and popped in for a pre-theatre drink and light dinner. Behind the Georgian façade, it’s a large bar and restaurant with a buzzing atmosphere and a series of colorful, contemporary spaces created like individual rooms.

As I didn’t have too much time, I sat at the bar and watched the bartenders creating cocktails – for me was a non-alcoholic mojito. I enjoyed my starter of tuna tartare with avocado cream, roasted aubergine and straw potatoes, which was very moreish.

The restaurant clearly has been decorated with Instagram in mind. There’s mirrored walls, hanging greenery, colored lighting and a quirky, Alice in Wonderland quality.

Tiger Lily is also a boutique hotel with 33 rooms and suites offering the same mixture of contemporary and colorful décor. I think would be a fun place to stay.

8. Stay at The Angels Share Edinburgh

I stayed in two different hotels during my short break in Edinburgh. First was The Angels Share Hotel, a smart boutique hotel that’s just off Charlotte Square. It sits between the West End and New Town neighborhoods of Edinburgh.

The hotel feels a world away from the touristy hub of the Royal Mile. There’s a much more local feel in its celebration of the contemporary Scottish culture. Each of the 31 rooms is decorated for a different Scottish icon of stage, screen, sport or music.

Black and white photos, granite grey walls and punches of warm color are featured in the cushions and furnishings. I must have lucked out, as I got to spend the night with actor Ewan McGregor. He looked splendid in his kilt above my bed, with film posters from his Trainspotting movie around the walls.

Scottish touches at The Angels Share

I loved the Scottish touches in the room, such as the sparkling chandeliers. The Tunnock’s tea cakes with chocolate marshmallow are a Scottish icon in their own right!

The next morning I had a chance to look around a bit more at the downstairs reception. This doubles as a bar and sitting area, with its mirrors and chandeliers.

Photos of all the Scottish icons around the walls make for a good guessing game on who they all are. Downstairs was a ‘secret’ Prohibition style bar, The Devil’s Cut, which is a fun place to hold a party or book for a private event.

9. Whisky tasting in Edinburgh at The Angels Share

The next morning I took breakfast in the bar of The Angels Share. Its brick walls, polished wood and plenty of mirrors create a bit of sparkle and light if you enter from the cold outside.

There’s no breakfast buffet here, but ordering from the menu, I decided against the Full Scottish with black pudding, haggis sausage, tattie scone. Instead I went instead for my usual Eggs Royale with Scottish smoked salmon.

I couldn’t help noticing the fine array of Scottish whisky and other spirits at the bar and realized what a great place The Angels Share would be if you’re looking for an informal whisky tasting. This is one of the most popular things to do in Edinburgh.

Not only did I count around 80 different Scottish whiskies on the drinks menu, but they offer six different whisky flights to allow you to taste a selection. Choose from well rounded Scotland’s softies, to the smooth and well matured Old Geezers.

It would be a fun place to come with a few friends to do a bit of whisky tasting, especially on a Thursday, Friday or Saturday night, when they also have live music in the bar.

If you prefer to have a guided whisky tasting, check out this history of Scottish Whisky tasting and storytelling experience.

Day 2 – exploring Edinburgh’s culture near the castle and Old Town

10. The Scottish National Gallery in Edinburgh

On the second day of my short winter break in Edinburgh, I decided to focus on some of the museums and galleries that cluster around the castle mound and the Old Town of Edinburgh. One of the greatest Scottish art institutions and showcases of Edinburgh culture has to be the Scottish National Gallery. It’s one of the three national galleries you’ll find in Edinburgh, the others being the Modern and Portrait Gallery.

The National Gallery houses the Scottish collection of art masterpieces from the likes of Rembrandt, Van Gogh and Monet, with a sizable collection of Scottish painters. The collections are actually housed in two different buildings which are connected by a lower level passage. I was there to see the Turner in January exhibition.

The Turner Watercolors

Joseph Turner was a celebrated English painter of the 19th century. He is best known for his watercolors that were made on his travels throughout England, Scotland and Europe, especially his romantic and awe inspiring mountain landscapes.

The collection of Turner watercolors on show was made by art collector Henry Vaughan. Vaughan bequeathed it to the Scottish National Galleries, specifying that it should be shown free to the public once a year in January.

Although this exhibition was just for the month of January, the Scottish National Gallery in Edinburgh holds different exhibitions throughout the year. There’s also numerous tours, musical events and drop-in drawing classes – and entrance is free so it’s well worth checking what’s on.

11. Lunch at Scottish Café – National Gallery of Scotland

If you’re looking for a good café in Edinburgh to meet a friend, I can recommend the Scottish Cafe at the National Gallery of Scotland. It’s in one of the modern wings of the National Gallery, in a light and airy space with full length windows looking out towards the Edinburgh castle mound.

The décor at the Scottish National Gallery Café is warm and colorful. It’s run by the Contini company, founded by an Italian Scottish family who have other restaurants around the city.

This is a café restaurant, with table service, but the prices are quite reasonable. I ordered the leek tart with celeriac puree, which I thought would be a bit like a quiche. Soon I realized that it was a starter sized portion and also ordered the warm winter vegetable salad with hummus which was very tasty.

12. National Museum of Scotland

In the afternoon, a good place to while away a few hours is the National Museum of Scotland. It’s close to Edinburgh Castle in the Old Town and one of the top things to see in Edinburgh.

This is deservedly the second most popular visitor attraction in Edinburgh after the castle and incorporates science, natural history, arts and fashion. It’s a blend of all the South Kensington museums in London under one roof.

Anyone with an eye for a photograph will head first to the Grand Gallery. This glass roofed gallery is held up by slender metal columns and soars three stories high. Many of the other galleries radiate off it. I was intrigued by the Window on the World collections that are displayed on the walls of the gallery, showing a eclectic mix of different items from the collections.

Explore the National Museum of Scotland

As I used to work in fashion I made a beeline for the fashion galleries. Striking examples of contemporary fashion are arranged catwalk style. Cabinets around the walls show the evolution of fashion design through the decades.

Next door in the Explore Gallery was Dolly the Sheep. Dolly is apparently one of the most visited personalities in the museum, being the first mammal to be created by cloning.

The Scottish Galleries are also well worth a look, with a different architectural feel. The building was designed with stairways and narrow spaces to look a bit like a Scottish Castle. It was here that I tracked down Mary Queen of Scots (at least a replica of her tomb) and took a look at some of her beautiful lockets intricately decorated in gold and jewels.

Heading up to the 7th floor (take a lift in the Scottish Gallery), you’ll reach a roof terrace which has great views of Edinburgh Castle and a 360 degree panorama over the city.

If you are looking for lunch or a quick bite, there are a number of different cafes in the National Museum, including the Balcony Café that overlooks the Grand Gallery and the more cozy Brasserie in the basement. They had a tempting display of cakes laid out here, including some that were decorated for the Chinese New Year and Burns Night theme, which coincided this year on the same day, and a tasty seared salmon with Asian stir fry vegetables which I tried.

There are a number of other fascinating Edinburgh Museums to visit, so check out the National Museums of Scotland website for more on the Museum of Flight, Museum of Rural Life or National War Museum.

14. Calton Hill – for views over Edinburgh

Although I didn’t visit Edinburgh Castle on this trip, it is the number one visitor attraction in the city, but one that you can also enjoy it from a distance from several locations including Calton Hill. From Prince’s Street you may look up and spot what looks like a Greek temple on the hill, but it’s actually quite easy to get there on foot if you head eastward on Prince’s Street and then take the short walk up to the top of the mound.

As you walk around the grassy park on the top of Calton Hill you can get views not just towards Edinburgh Castle but also in the other direction towards Arthur’s Seat and as far as the port of Leith on the Firth of Forth.

Buildings at the top of the hill include the City Observatory with its metal dome that is now an arts space, The Nelson Monument that can be climbed for even better views and the National Monument inspired by the Parthenon, built to commemorate Scottish servicemen who died in the Napoleonic wars.

Calton Hill is also a good spot to take photos of the castle and city at sunset, although I was a little early and as I headed back down the hill at dusk, I passed lots of people arriving, who no doubt had that perfect sunset photo in mind.

If you do plan to visit Edinburgh castle, check out this guided walking tour that includes tickets that you can book in advance, or take a tour of Edinburgh’s Underground Vaults in the Old Town.

13. St Giles Cathedral Edinburgh

On my way back from Calton Hill I stopped at St Giles Cathedral, which was hosting a special experience while I was there as part of the Burns and Beyond program to celebrate Burns Night and the work of Robert Burns. Within the cathedral there’s a stained glass window that was added in 1985 to commemorate Scotland’s favorite poet, but in honor of Chinese New Year there was also an illuminated display of Chinese lanterns which were lit up for evening visits.

The lanterns glowed red amid the stone pillars and arched ceiling of the cathedral, lit up with colors of pink and purple and accompanied by ethereal Chinese music wafting around the space. On the chairs that would normally be laid out for services, you could sit and read some of the best known poems of Rabbie Burns, hanging down on banners against the columns. There was a small charge for this special event but you can visit St Giles Cathedral at other times without charge.

15. Theatre in Edinburgh – at The Lyceum

My final stop that evening was at The Lyceum, a classic Victorian theatre built in the 1880s, with the plush seats and gilded decoration that makes theatre in Edinburgh such a great night out. I was there to see Pride and Prejudice (sort of), a feel-good reinvention of Jane Austen’s classic romance, interpreted for a new feminist generation.

I learned that the romances of Jane and Mr. Bingley and of Elizabeth and Mr. Darcy were not just the happy ending we all crave, but saved the Bennett family from a penniless future as a result of archaic property laws that prevented the girls from inheriting the family estate!

Pride and Prejudice (sort of)

The dazzlingly talented all female cast of five proceeded to act, sing and dance their way through the story, playing all the characters including the men and the servants and naturally came out on top. With lots of comedy and a few pop songs thrown in (not to mention the accordion, guitar, keyboard and trumpet that all made an appearance) this was a top performance that left me laughing and wanting to recommend it to all my friends!

While you may not be able to catch this particular show, it’s just one example of all the great theatre in Edinburgh that’s available at numerous venues like the Lyceum Edinburgh, Festival Theatre, King’s Theatre and Traverse Theatre.

16. Stay: Kimpton Charlotte Square

If you want to treat yourself to a luxury hotel in Edinburgh, the Kimpton Charlotte Square has your name written all over it! Set in a row of elegant Georgian townhouses on Charlotte Square, just a stone’s throw from Prince’s Street, this was where I checked in for the second night of my short break in Edinburgh.

I fell in love with Kimpton Hotels when I stayed at the gorgeous Kimpton Seafire in the Cayman Islands, as each of their hotels are individually designed to be luxurious and elegant, yet with a great sense of place that nods to their location.

My suite at Kimpton Charlotte Square was a beautiful oval room that must once have been the dining room or drawing room of a grand mansion, complete with the original curved doors. The luxurious furnishings and finishes and soft tartan throw made me feel like a cosmopolitan world traveler yet reflected the atmosphere of Edinburgh perfectly.

Scottish touches at Kimpton Charlotte Square

From the moment I entered the classic Georgian entrance hall at the Kimpton Charlotte Square I was given a warm welcome, shown to my room and spoiled by the lovely toiletries in the bathroom, the complimentary mini bar and the Tunnock’s caramel wafers – a totally Scottish touch.

If I’d had more time I would have definitely been making full use of their heated pool and spa, dining in their Middle Eastern BABA restaurant or having breakfast in the light and airy Greenhouse Conservatory restaurant (which I sadly missed due to my early start back to Bristol).

Heading back home from my cultural break in Edinburgh

The next morning I was on the Airlink bus to the airport and my flight back to Bristol after a whirlwind two days exploring the best of Edinburgh’s cultural scene. Short and sweet it was, but certainly long enough to realize that Edinburgh is a city that beguiles and entertains at any time of year.

So when you read the guidebook that tells you to go to Edinburgh in August for the fringe, when the city is overflowing and every hotel bed’s taken, you can smile and know better.

Edinburgh in winter has plenty to recommend it, with room to breathe, better hotel rates, cozy bars and restaurants, all the same historic sites and world class art, theatre and culture – what’s not to love?

Visitor information for visiting Edinburgh in winter

You’ll find a wealth of information to plan your visit to Edinburgh on the official Visit Scotland website.

For more accommodation in Scotland check out the deals at myHotelBreak.com

Want to see more of Scotland?

Check out this 5 day tour of Scotland’s highlights or this 1 day tour of Loch Ness, Glencoe and The Highlands

How to get to Edinburgh

As Scotland’s capital, Edinburgh has excellent road and rail links from all parts of the United Kingdom.

If you are flying into Edinburgh Airport, check out Easyjet which I used for my quick flight from Bristol Airport as well as other airlines like Ryanair, Flybe, British Airways, Loganair.

From the airport – Once you arrive at the airport, you can take the Airlink 100 bus for £7.50 return, which runs very regularly and will bring you in 30 minutes into the heart of Edinburgh – you can also book the ticket in advance here. Another option is to take the Airport tram which follows a similar route and is just a little more expensive.

Around Edinburgh – Once you are in Edinburgh, the main sites are are very walkable, but you can also use the local tram, bus or call a taxi which is not too expensive.

Hotels – For a place to stay, I can recommend the Angels Share and Kimpton Charlotte Square where I stayed.

Guidebooks – If you are looking for a guidebook for your visit to Edinburgh , we recommend the Lonely Planet Pocket Guide to Edinburgh

Follow my 2 day Edinburgh itinerary for culture lovers

Day 1

• Morning – Explore Edinburgh West End on foot to enjoy the architecture, boutiques and cafes
• Walk to Dean Village to take some photos of the picturesque old mill houses
• Walk on the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art (free) where there’s a nice café and restaurant
• Afternoon – walk or take a taxi back to Edinburgh New Town for excellent shopping on Prince’s Street and George Street
• Take a look around the Scottish National Portrait Gallery (free)
• Evening – Drinks and dinner at Tiger Lily or check out the many bars and restaurants on Rose Street or George Street
• Take in a show – check out the performances by Gilded Balloon
• Stay – at Angels Share or Kimpton Charlotte Square

Day 2

• Morning – Walk to the Scottish National Gallery (free) with coffee or lunch in the gallery’s Scottish Cafe
• Lunch / Afternoon – Walk on to the National Museum of Scotland (free) which has a couple of nice museum cafes for lunch
• Visit St Giles Cathedral – check if there are any special event
• Walk on to Calton Hill to visit the monuments (free) and catch the late afternoon or sunset views of Edinburgh castle
• Evening – A Whisky flight or Whisky cocktail at Angels Share
• Take in a show – check out the Lyceum Theatre or other venues
• Stay – at Angels Share or Kimpton Charlotte Square

What my trip cost

To help you plan for your own trip to Edinburgh I’ve provide details of the costs below for 1 person. Where this was provided as part of my press trip I’ve estimated what it would cost you.

Transport – £121

• £108 Return flight from Bristol with Easyjet
• £7.50 Airbus Airport Transfer return trip to Princes Street
• £5.50 Uber from West End to Old Town (only because I was running late for a lunch appointment)
• Otherwise I walked everywhere – Edinburgh is totally walkable!

Hotels – £333 for 2 nights

• £115 Angels Share – 1 night in Deluxe Double room Flexible room only rate in February (rooms from £56)
• £218 Kimpton Charlotte Square – 1 night in Deluxe Room in February (rooms from £152)

Attractions and Theatre – £65

• £11.50 Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art – Paula Rego Exhibition (permanent galleries free)
• Scottish National Portrait Gallery – free
• Scottish National Gallery – free
• National Museum of Scotland – free
• £5 Burns and Beyond Chinese Lanterns at St Giles Cathedral (free to visit cathedral during the day)
• £12 Burns and Beyond – Armour performance at Gilded Balloon
• £37 Lyceum Theatre – Pride and Prejudice (sort of)

Food – £87

• £11 Breakfast at Angels Share (if not included in room rate)
• £3 Soup to take away at Roots Deli
• £21 Lunch at Scottish Cafe at National Gallery (leek tart + winter veg salad)
• £18 Lunch at Brasserie – National Museum of Scotland (soft drink + salmon stir fry)
• £19 Cocktail and starter at Tiger Lily
• £15 – various snacks and drinks from local shops

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This article was sponsored* by Edinburgh Wows who provided the hotel stay and experiences mentioned.

* More info on my policies page

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