Didn’t I say the skies are brighter and the sea is bluer in Cornwall? And how right I was – I’ve just returned from break at YHA Treyarnon Bay in Cornwall that was both energising (breathe in that sea air) and relaxing (stoke up that log fire).
This article may contain affiliate links that provide commission on purchases you make at no extra cost to you. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Arriving at YHA Treyarnon Bay
Like a flock of noisy seagulls, we descended with six other families, on YHA Treyarnon Bay in Cornwall for a long weekend. The hostel occupies the most enviable position on the cliff above Treyarnon beach, which is only one in a string of near perfect beaches, with sand to build castles, rock pools to dabble in, and rolling surf. Seven bays for seven days is the local saying, and you could try out a different beach for each day of the week.
The hostel is open all year round and as hostels go is pretty top of the range (and I’ve tried a few!) In fact it’s so popular that its always booked out well ahead for the summer months. But better to try an out of season break before the crowds hit Cornwall and you can have the place to yourself.
Nice to cosy up at Treyarnon hostel
They have a café here for evening meals, a bar where you can sample Cornish real ales, or cook up your own seafood feast in the self-catering kitchen. Big efforts have been made to jazz up the sitting and dining areas with trendy burnt orange and sea blue walls, surf boards hanging from every surface and the work of local artists and photographers decorating the walls. With an open fire in the evening, this was the place to cosy up with a board game or a good book.
The rooms at YHA Treyarnon Bay sleep from 3 to 6 people and are all kitted out with pine bunk beds, primrose walls and cheerful curtains – the best of 1980’s design. It’s perfectly suited to families and out-door types although romantic couples or style gurus might be disappointed. Some of the rooms even have en-suite bathrooms, although on the functional side – think school dorm rather than Travelodge.
Oh yes, the days of communal potato peeling are long gone as the YHA reinvents itself, to serve a new generation of happy hostellers.
The Cliff Path at Treyarnon Bay
The cliff path runs in both directions from outside the hostel. We wandered along round to the next beach at Constantine bay, passing stone benches set up in memory to those who must have also enjoyed these views. Who were the Captain and the purple lady?
I wondered as I sat on their bench and mentally toasted them with their motto; the sun is always over the yard arm. Or Nick, who lived from 1973 to 2000, and whose beautiful stone bench and table, gazing seaward, was engraved with a motor-bike and adorned with a bunch of fresh flowers.
Majestic beach views of Constantine Bay
At low tide there are rock pools enough to keep children happy for hours – there’s even one that’s big enough to swim in, known as the Treyarnon swimming pool, which the children dipped a toe in. This area is a mecca for surfers – there’s a surf school just round the bay and we saw plenty braving the freezing water, bobbing like seals in their wetsuits.
We strolled along the broad sandy beach of Constantine bay, backed by dunes, past the more rocky Booby’s beach which only reveals itself at low tide, and on to the lighthouse at Trevose head. Then back to the hostel to enjoy that cosy bar and roaring fire.
There’s plenty more to keep you busy here and I’ll be posting soon about our visit to the fishing village of Padstow and a stroll through the sand dunes to find a half buried church and the final resting place of the Poet Laureate, John Betjeman.
Need a guidebook for Devon? We recommend the Rough Guide to Devon and Cornwall
This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com.
Marian
Monday 18th of March 2013
Such a wonderful blog! Stumbled across it whilst googling Treyarnon (where I spend my holidays every year.) The Captain and the Purple Lady were actually my Granny and Grandad, and it made me smile that you mentioned them and the bench we have left in their name!
Marian x
Patrick
Friday 28th of May 2021
Hello. I've just been sitting on your grandparents bench. Can you tell me a little more about them? Have you heard the music that's been composed inspired by them.
Heather Cowper
Monday 18th of March 2013
@Marian Thanks so much for your comment - it's great to connect with the family of the Captain and the Purple Lady - I'm sure there must be a story in that.
Happy Hostelling in Cornwall | Heather on her travels
Wednesday 16th of March 2011
[...] Read all about our weekend at Treyarnon Youth Hostel [...]
Coastal beauty and adventure in New Zealand | Heather on her travels
Tuesday 24th of August 2010
[...] Gone fishing for crabs on the Ile de Houat – in Brittany, France Sea caves and a boat trip – in Sardinia Bright skies and blue seas at Treyarnon in Cornwall [...]
Cornwall Dude
Sunday 17th of January 2010
Great article, will be back to Treyarnon Bay this summer
Friday photo - the windswept cliffs of Cornwall : Heather on her travels
Friday 13th of February 2009
[...] our second visit to Treyarnon on the north Cornish coast - you can read more about our previous stay at the youth hostel and visit to Padstow [...]