While Northern Ireland’s Causeway Coast offers windswept golden beaches and ruined castles, what impressed us most was the quality of the food. We found artisan producers creating new and interesting products and dined at restaurants using the freshest of local ingredients. And the seafood, oh the seafood!
So let me take you on a tour of some the restaurants and the dishes I enjoyed. Between visiting the Giant’s Causeway, Carrick-A-Rede rope bridge and Mussenden Temple – there’s plenty here to make your mouth water.
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1. The best of Irish cooking at The Bushmills Inn
I loved eating my way through the menu at the Bushmills Inn where I stayed while exploring Northern Ireland’s Causeway Coast. If you want to feel the warmth of Irish hospitality, not to mention the peat fire that burns summer and winter at the entrance, this is the place for you.
The hotel started as a coaching inn and the oldest part of the building that fronts the main road now houses the Gas Bar. Lit by gas lamps the bar has a traditional feel, with red walls and subdued lighting casting a rosy glow.
It’s especially atmospheric on a Saturday or Wednesday night when they have an Irish band sitting in the corner, playing all the folk favorites.
Breakfast was served in the oldest part of the Bushmills Inn. I sat in one of the wooden booths and enjoyed the thick, juicy slices of Irish smoked salmon with scrambled eggs served on crested china plates. I was even more impressed when I had dinner in the newer part of the restaurant which is glazed on one side, creating a lighter feel.
Local produce and suppliers
The hotel is committed to using local produce. The suppliers are listed at the end of the menu, right down to the farm that produces the herbs.
Having heard that the beef here was outstanding I chose the Braised Belted Beef with a mustard crust with vegetables and champ. It was meltingly soft having been cooked very slowly ‘sous vide’.
My friend’s Kerry Hill Lamb was also getting oohs and ahs of approval. The dishes were at once sophisticated yet totally Irish and beautifully presented. They have an Innkeeper’s Choice section of the menu that changes regularly and a decent vegetarian selection too.
This is the place to treat yourself for a special dinner and a taste of traditional Irish cooking at it’s best. It’s considered one of the best restaurants near the Giant’s Causeway.
The Bushmills Inn, 9 Dunluce Road, Bushmills. I ate: Braised Belted Galloway Beef and Forest Berry crème brûlée
Stay at the authentic and luxurious boutique hotel Bushmills Inn
2. Seafood on the beach at Harry’s Shack
After hearing so many great things about Harry’s Shack at Portstewart, I was determined to have lunch there. I managed to fit it in between a visit to Mussenden temple and Dunluce castle.
This is the sort of beach café you find on every other beach in Cornwall. But, it’s a surprising rarity on Ireland’s North Coast considering the number of unspoiled, golden beaches. I half expected to find Jamie Oliver popping in for lunch with the family.
The ‘Shack’ is an overgrown garden shed set just above the beach. There’s space to eat outside on picnic tables and plenty of light flooding in.
I’d heard that the fish here was outstanding so was surprised that there were so many meaty crowd-pleasers: Beach burger and chips, chicken terrine, Irish chicken and mushroom pie. I certainly wasn’t complaining when my pan fried fish arrived with capers and cockles in a pool of buttery sauce with a bowl of mash to soak it up.
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Authentic fish and chips
My friend’s fish and chips also looked very good, with the chips in the obligatory metal pail and mushy peas on the side. I was tempted by the cakes on the counter but settled on a single salted caramel macaron to have with my coffee.
Harry’s shack is definitely a place I’d head back to and it’s also one of the best restaurants near the Giant’s Causeway. It manages to be both family friendly and please serious food lovers of all ages. Rustic beach style with simple food done very well. Why aren’t all restaurants like this?
Harry’s Shack, 118 Strand Road, Portstewart. We ate: Pan fried fish and Fish & Chips
3. Restaurants in Portrush – a lively Saturday night at Ramore
Ramore in Portrush is the foodie spot on the Causeway coast where you head for good food and good times at the weekend. It’s a place to put on your high heels and have a laugh.
Housing some of the best restaurants in Portrush, the tall white building overlooks the harbor. The Coast Pizzeria is on the ground floor. Check out The Mermaid on the top floor with a sophisticated driftwood and deckchair stripe theme.
Ramore has spread sideways to the Harbor Bar next door. The Neptune and Prawn serving Asian inspired dishes is just across the road.
None of them is bookable except The Mermaid, where I found myself sitting at the cocktail bar for dinner on a Saturday night. I wished I’d made a bit more effort to dress up amidst the perfectly groomed hair and fashionably bright lipstick!
Dinner at The Mermaid
Things looked up once my Hendricks Southside cocktail with gin, cucumber, mint and elderflower arrived. At least I was in a great spot for people-watching!
The cocktails were mixed and shaken before my eyes: espresso martinis decorated with a carefully placed coffee bean, mint and ice being crushed for the Mojitos.
By the time my starter of roast scallops with black pudding and curry cream arrived I was definitely converted. This could possibly be the prettiest dish I’d seen in a long while. The richness of the scallops and sauce being offset by the sweet sharpness of the red currents scattered across the plate.
The roast hake was perfectly cooked, balanced on top of a broth with vegetables and new potatoes. I should have known better than to order the floating brandy snap for dessert.
Here I had to admit defeat and could only nibble bits of the plate size brandy snap. I managed a taste of the four different ice creams beneath and a little of each of the three sauces that came with it.
The clatter of glasses and chatter of friends was overwhelming but perfect if you want to party on a Saturday night. It’s probably a little calmer at other times – highly recommended as one of the best restaurants in Portrush.
Ramore Restaurants, The Harbour, Portrush. I ate in The Mermaid: my cocktail, starter, fish, and dessert
4. A honeycomb ice cream at Ballintoy Harbour
I’d probably have missed Ballintoy harbour, had I not visited as part of my tour with Glenara Elite Travel. It’s as picturesque a place as they come!
It was used as a Game of Thrones setting for the port of Pyke in the Iron Islands (OK, I admit I had to look that up). Because the road down to the harbor is steep and narrow you won’t find any larger coach parties down there, although I suspect it’s still packed in summer.
As we arrived in the late afternoon, the small tea room on the harbor was closing, But, we just managed to buy a locally made ice cream to eat at the golden hour.
I chose honeycomb flavour which is a local favourite. Although not much to do with honey, but studded with the kind of burnt sugar honeycomb you find in a Crunchie bar. If you ever get to the Ballycastle Auld Lammas Fair this kind of honeycomb is a local specialty and sold along with Dulse seaweed (but not eaten together!)
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5. A drop of Bushmills Whiskey
Of course on the Causeway Coast it’s difficult to get by without a drop of whiskey from the famous Bushmills Whiskey Distillery in Bushmills where I was staying. I’d recommend doing the tour which gives an excellent insight into how the whiskey is made, even though you are walking through a not-particularly-attractive commercial production plant.
The fun bit comes at the end when you get to taste a generous slug of the Bushmills whiskey which is included in your ticket. You can take your time sipping it in the cozy café area. Buy your favorite in the shop, including a personalized bottle of the 12 year old which they sell exclusively at the distillery.
Try a whiskey tasting
Interested in trying a few different whiskeys? You can have a mini tasting of 3 of the whiskeys and chat to the bar staff about the different flavors.
Or, better still book for the tutored tasting which takes place every day. Book for this on its own or combine with a distillery tour. You get to sit at the table in the café next to the old copper still and taste your way through 5 of the finest whiskeys, (including the 21 year old).
One of the distillery staff will tell you about each whiskey which are different ages, but also matured in different oak casks. The casks have contained bourbon whiskey, port or madeira, each taking a different flavor from the casks.
My favorite was the Bushmills 16 year old with flavors of honey, almonds and vanilla matured on port casks (I looked that up from the tasting sheet but it was delicious).
Be sure to arrange someone to drive you back to your hotel after the tasting. Better still book in just down the road at the Bushmills Inn so you can walk (stagger?) back. Spend the rest of the afternoon snoozing in front of the peat fire.
Bushmills Distillery Tour, 2 Distillery Road, Bushmills. Tour: including a taste of one whiskey | Tasting 3 whiskeys after the tour | Tutored tasting of 5 whiskeys or including the tour (takes place daily and must be booked in advance)
Stay at the authentic and luxurious boutique hotel Bushmills Inn
6. A fine Sunday lunch in Bushmills
If you enjoy the Irish charm of Bushmills Inn, with its oak paneling and peat fires, be sure to try its Sunday lunch menu. There’s a carvery where the chefs will serve you a selection of roast meats and sides, as well as delectable starters and deserts to try.
From the Sunday lunch menu I chose the roll of pork stuffed with apples and raisins. I had a prettily presented side dishes of carrots, peas with lettuce. There were both mashed and roast potatoes (always a choice of potatoes in Ireland).
Stay at the authentic and luxurious boutique hotel Bushmills Inn
7. Italian inspiration at Bartali Wine Bar at Portballintrae
On a quiet Sunday evening I ate at Bartali Wine Bar. This overlooks the bay at Portballintrae and was just a short drive from Bushmills.
The long whitewashed building with a slate roof looked as if it had been converted from an ancient barn or fisherman’s boathouse. In fact it was only built around 10 years ago.
Inside the wooden booths, brick arches and Victorian fireplace might have been from an old pub. But, there was also a young, trendy feel to the place, with an emphasis on local produce and craft ales.
I learned that this restaurant and its sister restaurants in Belfast are named after Italian champion cyclists. being the namesake of Gino Bartali, the others being Coppi (named after Fausto Coppi) and il Pirata (named after Marco Pantani) which serve cichetti bar snacks and rustic Italian cuisine.
I enjoyed my market fish; sea bream with cabbage, pancetta and gnocchi which had just the right blend of Irish and Italian.
Update: Unfortunately since I wrote the article, Bartali Wine Bar has now closed
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8. Meeting the goats at Broughgammon Farm
As I left Bushmills for my drive past the Glens of Antrim I stopped at Broughgammon Farm near Ballycastle. The family that runs the farm are friends and I was meeting up with Becky Cole. With her husband Charlie, Becky has started a business to rear Billy goats for meat which they sell at farmer’s markets around Ireland.
They run butchery and cookery courses on the farm, have a small farm shop selling their meat and other local products. Becky also has a blog about seasonal living on the farm.
Becky told me how they had found their niche after realizing that most goats are reared for their milk and the Billy goats are slaughtered at birth.
For a sustainable approach they buy the male kids and rear them to make cabrito goat meat cuts and sell the famous ‘billyburgers’ at farmer’s markets and country shows, recently branching out into free range rose veal and wild game.
Becky took me to see the goats in their barn. They were full of fun and mischief, nibbling my hand and checking me out with an inquisitive gaze.
There’s a whole scene of artisan food producers like Becky and Charlie in Northern Ireland. Look out for them at local markets and in farm shops and delis.
Broughgammon Farm, 50 Straid Road, Ballycastle, BT546NP. Check out the meat boxes that can be delivered anywhere in the UK. The events calendar will tell you at which markets you can find the billy-burgers.
9. Nelly Rua’s in Ballycastle
I’d already visited Ballycastle when I took the ferry across to Rathlin Island. But, I decided to stop there again for lunch before driving down the Glens coast back to Belfast Airport.
On a Monday lunchtime many of the shops and restaurants were closed but I settled into a table in front of the fire at Nelly Rua’s (formerly the Central Bar). This attractive stone building is on the main road through town.
Without looking at the menu I knew I had to order the seafood chowder. The dish came recommended by a Ballycastle local I’d met. It was a delicious creamy soup with chunks of vegetables, fish and prawns from Mortons fishmonger down at the harbour.
On the side were three different breads which are cooked on the premises. A treacle and fennel seed, Guinness wheaten bread and a tomato focaccia.
The lunch was a real treat and all I needed to set me up for the drive along the Glens coastal route. Nelly Rua’s uses fresh local ingredients cooked to order. There was something to please everyone from Italian pizza, local seafood, steaks, curry and chicken dishes.
Nelly Rua’s, 12 Ann Street, Ballycastle. I ate: Seafood Chowder.
Places to eat in Ballycastle
Ballycastle is one of the main towns on the Causeway Coast and there’s a thriving food scene going on here. I had plenty of recommendations for Ballycastle restaurants. Unfortunately when I visited on a Monday many were closed. Check out the following and let me know what you think;
Morton’s Fish and Chips – Look out for the kiosk beside the Ballycastle harbor which is renowned for the best fish and chips in the area. The family own their own fishing boats and also have a fishmonger selling the fresh fish next door. You can be sure that the fish is ultra-fresh and cooked to order. The locals travel miles to buy their fish and chips here and sit eating it with a view of the harbor.
Ballycastle Food Markets – There’s a regular food market in Ballycastle where you’ll find plenty of different local artisan food producers. Check out the Naturally North Coast and Glens website for more details.
Caroline Redmond offers food tours in Ballycastle which visit many of the foodie stops mentioned. She also does walking tours of the Causeway coast. Contact her by email: [email protected]
More places to eat in Ballycastle
Thyme and Co, 5 Quay Road, Ballycastle – a pretty and airy café that uses a lot of local produce. Perfect for breakfast, brunch or a light lunch of Mediterranean tarts and aromatic soups served with crusty breads.
Ursa Minor Bakehouse, 45 Ann Street, Ballycastle, is the place that everyone mentioned to me for bread and cakes and they have a small café too. They make their bread with organic ingredients using traditional methods and supply many local cafes such as Thyme and Co and Harry’s Shack.
The North Coast Smokehouse isn’t open to the public but look out for their smoked fish at markets and local cafes like Thyme and Co. You’ll find their smoked sea salt at delis and food shops. I also saw it on sale at Belfast airport. Their website has details of stockists.
Causeway Coast Foodie Tours are run by Wendy Gallagher. You can take one of her 6 hour Coast and Country tours by coach to visit a range of different food producers along the Causeway Coast for tastings and food demonstrations. The tours start and end in Colraine. Email: [email protected]
Cushendun and Cushendell as you drive down the Glens coast
On my drive south from Ballycastle I passed through the coastal villages of Cushendun and Cushendell. Unfortunately most places were closed on the Monday but I was recommended the following for a place to eat;
Cushendun is a pretty village is managed by the National Trust. It has a long beach, picturesque old stone bridge and a shop where you could easily buy a picnic if the weather is fine. Mary McBrides (2 Main Street) is a tiny whitewashed bar right by the bridge and serves good lunches with a fish restaurant upstairs.
Cushendall is a larger village with several cafes and restaurants with the beach a short drive from the center. I was recommended the fish restaurant above Johnny Joe’s bar – Upstairs @ Joes (23 Mill Street) where they also run a cookery school. Also Harry’s Restaurant (10-12 Mill Street) which is just across the road, both of which serve local fish and seafood.
Stay at the authentic and luxurious boutique hotel Bushmills Inn
10. Afternoon tea at the Glenarm Castle Tea Rooms
My final stop before I reluctantly returned to Belfast airport was the tea room at Glenarm castle. Just off the coastal road, this and makes a great refreshment stop.
You can visit the tearooms even if you don’t want to visit the walled garden. They serve brunch, sandwiches and soup for lunch and tea and cakes. I just had time for a slice of Lady Grey and orange tea loaf washed down with raspberry fruit tea.
The tearoom looks as if it was once a garden building and is all painted wood and pine tables with pretty garden flowers on each table. I wish I’d had time to visit the walled garden which I could glimpse through the archway and just popped out to take a photo before continuing my drive, with the majestic glens and glacial valleys on one side and the sea on the other.
Glenarm Castle: Garden admission. I tried herbal tea and cake. They serve a traditional afternoon tea per person.
A golden bonus from Broighter Gold
Everywhere I went I kept spotting bottles of Broighter Gold who produce cold pressed golden rapeseed oil on their farm at Limavady. They also sell a range of salad oils infused with flavours like basil, lemon and chilli.
It’s fashionable to use olive oil with abandon in our cooking. But, this rapeseed oil made me stop and wonder why, when there are delicious and healthy local products like this that are part of our own farming landscape.
I loved my foodie tour of Northern Ireland’s Causeway Coast exploring local artisan products, fabulous seafood and outstanding quality meat, all served up in huge portions with a healthy dollop of friendly Irish charm. I hope your mouth is watering too!
Read Next
Check out my driving guide to Northern Ireland’s Causeway Coast
More things to enjoy in Ireland
Irish tales and 50 shades of green on the Wild Wicklow tour
10 things we did on a weekend in Dublin
Discover the natural beauty of Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way
Visitor Information for visiting Ireland’s Causeway Coast
For more information and to plan your visit to Northern Ireland’s scenic Causeway Coast visit the Causeway and Glens website.
Heather stayed at The Bushmills Inn in Bushmills which is a luxury 4 star hotel. It is close to all the major things to see such as The Giant’s Causeway and the Bushmills Whiskey Distillery. The hotel has a traditional Irish warmth with excellent food and friendly service and the peat fire is always burning to welcome you. If you’re lucky you may find your own country’s flag flying from the tower to greet you!
Stay at the authentic and luxurious boutique hotel Bushmills Inn
For guided tours I recommend Glenara Elite Travel who operate tours in a comfortable mini-bus. You’re able to easily see all the attractions of the Causeway Coast in one day. They run regular day tours per person.
My extremely knowledgeable guide for the Giant’s Causeway and other local attractions was Mark Rodgers of Dalriada Kingdom Tours who fed me with local tales of fishing families and mythical giants.
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Thanks to the Causeway and Glens Tourism Board for hosting* my stay on Northern Ireland’s Causeway Coast.
* More info on my policies page
Robert Blair
Sunday 17th of April 2022
Hi The Taphouse in Bellaghy first class for lunch or dinner I would recommend the tampura prawns as a starter and for the main course venison. On the North Coast try Amichi in portstewart For a great meal with Italian feel
Heather Cowper
Tuesday 31st of May 2022
@Robert Thanks for the tips
Maureen Staniland
Saturday 31st of July 2021
When was Heather in BARTALALI Wine Bar ? 2016.
This place is not there in 2021.
Heather Cowper
Monday 10th of January 2022
Thanks Maureen, I've updated the article accordingly as it was written some time ago.
Bruce
Sunday 11th of July 2021
Way out of line. The Central in Ballycastle is an over priced ,boring food place. The Cellar, the Diamond bar and O'Conners over the road are all more worthy. You won't get an ice cream at Ballintoy either.
Heather Cowper
Wednesday 14th of July 2021
@Bruce Thanks for the local tips
Umina Beach
Monday 22nd of January 2018
I just love the idea that you are sharing your Irish Foodie Tours and so excited for more of your foodie experience. Keep posting Heather
Tanishka
Wednesday 12th of April 2017
It was just amazing, really enjoyed reading the whole article with so beautiful pictures.