Uncovering the delicious food in Athens

“We want you to help the world dream about Greece”, the Minister of Tourism told us at the opening night party for the TBEX travel bloggers conference in Athens. This vibrant Greek capital had opened its arms wide, to welcome over 500 travel bloggers attending the conference, so that we could help change perceptions about what Greece has to offer. The city was keen to showcase the delicious food in Athens and invite us to tell their stories.

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Greece is looking to the future

Greece had been through some tough times, filling the newspapers with reports of strikes and public protests. During the crisis the government was forced to take drastic measures to balance the books and pensioners, students and families alike struggled to make ends meet.

But during our visit to Athens, we could feel a new energy as Greece leaves the worst behind and looks to the future. Local tourism businesses had come together to show us their best side and at the opening party restaurants and food businesses wow’ed us with a feast of Greek cuisine and enterprise.

Read about the food in Athens – 23 dishes and foodie experiences you’ll want to try!

A showcase of Greek food in Athens

Arriving at the Technopolis cultural centre I found stands of food and drink, where producers tempted me with tastes from all the regions of Greece. From Stremenos I tasted my way through the naturally matured prosciutto and salamis from the pine forests of Central Greece, washed down with Verve natural juices in blends of apple, celery, melon and ginger. I sipped Greek wines from Papaioannou Wines and nibbled a plate of miniature hot dogs from local restaurant ManhManh who offer Greek regional dishes with a modern twist.

Another local Athens restaurant Aleria was serving a creamy, nutty Halva mousse to die for and I was given a bag of traditional Loukoum sweets, perfumed with rosewater, coated with coconut and dripping with syrup. I took them back to my hotel room and looking for a late night snack I’m ashamed to say that I couldn’t resist eating the whole bag.

Our food tour in Athens

During the day I had taken the Athens Food Tour with Big Olive, a new business run by young Athenian entrepreneurs including the founder, Yannis and architecture expert, Nikos who fed us historical snippets during our walk. Although Big Olive is no longer running their food tours, we can recommend this food tour which offers 8-10 different tastings to give you a great overview of the Athens food scene.

Greek pastries and yoghurt

Our gastronomic walking tour started back to front with the deserts first, although of course the Greeks tend to eat their yoghurt and honey in the morning for breakfast and their cakes in the afternoon when guests come visiting.

At Stani, a family run dairy cafe just off Omonia Square, tubs of creamy Greek yoghurt were piled in the chiller cabinet. Jars of honey were stacked on the shelves of cream painted cabinets, as if transported from some Greek grandmother’s kitchen.

Plates of sweet treets were laid out for us to try, with crisp Loukoumades, miniature doughnuts drizzled with honey. We feasted on Galaktobureko custard tart enclosed in syrupy filo pasty and Moustalevria a sweet jelly made from grape pulp left over from the wine pressing and scattered with nuts. And of course there was creamy Greek yoghurt made from sheep’s milk bathed with honey and scattered with walnuts. Address: Stani, 10 M. Kotopouli str, Omonia square

Read about the best Athens restaurants – our favourites by neighbourhood

Olives – the symbol of Athens

Our next stop offered a tasting of olives and olive oils with sweet, hard biscuits flavoured with orange and almond. These traditional Koulourakia biscuits would be hard baked to preserve them but then softened by dipping into olive oil.

The LIA extra virgin oil from Messinia, beside the Ionian sea was poured into a cup to sip on its own and savour the green grass flavours. We tasted the small, salty, black Kalamata olives from the Peloponnese and the plump, fleshy Amphisa olives from central Greece, the Kalamata ones being the more expensive of the two.

The olive is seen as a symbol of peace and prosperity in Greece. Legend tells that the Greek Goddess Athena planted a tree on the Acropolis, so founding the city of Athens which was named after her. For Athens the olive is not only the symbol of the city, but also of regeneration, since it will spring up and grow again after a forest fire.

Read more: Athens street art – discover these amazing murals and artists!

The Athens Central Market

Our gastronomic tour now took us through the amazing Central market on Athinas Street known as the Varvakios Agora. Stand after stand of fish was laid out, with all the vendors keeping up a constant calling and exhorting us to buy their fish. Silver scaled and yellow striped fish stared up at me with dead eyes and open mouths from their bed of ice. Prettily arranged plump pink crayfish were mixed with lemons, standing ready to make a seafood supper.

At the farthest end of the fish section we reached the meat section where half carcasses of dead animals hung from the meat hooks. I winced as the butchers wielded their cleavers expertly on the chopping blocks and hoped that no fingers would be chopped off in the process!

Nikos the story teller told us how the market had originally been located within the archaeological area until this new one was built in the 1880s to allow the excavations to take place. The traders resisted moving into it since it was further away from the busy shopping areas. However, a fire mysteriously broke out and burned down the original market, leaving them no choice.

A food tour is a great way to experience the food of Athens – this food tour includes a visit to the Central market and tastings of local delicacies.

Feyrouz for Levantine street food in Athens

Next stop on our gastronomic journey around the regional influences on Greek cuisine was Feyrouz Lahmajoun, another new family venture featuring the flatbreads of Antiochia. What is a Lahmajoun? It’s a Turkish or Armenian street-food that is somewhere between cross a pizza, pitta and a pie.

The owner, Andreas explained how the shop was named for his mother Feyrouz who made all the doughs and fillings for the Lahmajoun. Also for the much admired singer Fayrouz who was considered the queen of Lebanese music and whose portrait was hanging behind the counter. “She is the only Arabic singer who is loved by all religions and all nationalities” Andreas told us.

We could see the different flatbreads laid out behind the counter covered with minced meat or vegetables to which you could add humus or olive paste as an extra topping. The Peinirli or open top pies were laid out along the window counter for us to try, warm from the oven with toppings of cheese and tomato or cooked vegetables. To accompany them we sipped a glass of perfumed amber Turkish tea, flavoured with cardamon and cloves. Address: Feyrouz: Karori 23 in Aiolou, Athens

Karamanlidika – Greek cheese and charcuterie

Reluctantly our group moved out of Feyrouz, having devoured everything that had been laid out for us. We headed through the side streets to another cafe/deli specialising in cheese and charcuterie called Karamanlidika.

Strings of red sausages, bunches of garlic and chillis and whole hams were strung above the counter like Christmas decorations. With bare stone walls and simple wooden tables the place looked like a classy village taverna serving simple plates of cheeses and sliced charcuterie to appreciative diners.

Many of the hams had a thick red coating of spices like pepper and fenugreek which once thinly sliced, made a ribbon edge of the meat, giving a zap of flavour as we greedily ate it with our fingers. Also on the menu were Meze like the stuffed vine leaves and matured cheese, with plenty of jars and bottle full of oils and condiments to take home. Address: Karamanlidika: Sokrates 1 & Evripides 52, Athens

The Museum of Gastronomy

Our final stop was the charming Museum of Greek Gastronomy, a private house that had been opened up with a restaurant upstairs, some specialist produce on sale and downstairs an exhibition about the foods and cultivation of the monks of Northern Greece.

We sat in the small courtyard looking out towards the church next door and enjoyed a strong Greek coffee perfumed with rosewater. With it was offered a “Sweet Spoon” which in this case was a miniature aubergine preserved in syrup like a crystallised fruit. Update: Sadly the Museum of Greek Gastronomy has now closed

A visit to the Acropolis

Now mid-afternoon our Athens food tour completed, it was time for a bit of tick-list sightseeing. Paris has the Eiffel Tower, Rome has the Colosseum, London has Buckingham Palace and of course, when in Athens one must see the Acropolis.

The heavy rain that we had battled through in the morning had given way to warm sunshine and so I headed up the hill towards the Parthenon. By pure chance we had chosen the perfect time to take photos of those famous monuments, at the golden hour of late afternoon when the sun bathes the golden stone of the Parthenon and those lovely ladies holding up the roof bask in the sunshine.  

Read more: Visit the Acropolis is Athens – here’s what you need to know

The Parthenon was something of a building site and seemed to be in a process of being dismantled and put back together with cranes and scaffolding everywhere. We walked around, took lots of photos and marvelled at the size and sprawl of Athens below us, stretching as far as the mountains in the distance.

If you are planning to visit the Acropolis, we recommend pre-booking a skip-the-line ticket as the queues can be long.

Time for ice cream in Athens

Sightseeing boxes ticked, we headed back down and wandered around the narrow streets filled with cafes and restaurants. We stopped for a pistachio ice cream and enormous chocolate truffle from Da Vinci, an artisan ice cream parlour that it seemed churlish to pass by without investigating the flavours on offer.

The next two days were taken up with the blogging conference but our final Saturday night was spent at a street party put on for us by the local traders of Pandrossou Street. Emerging from Monastiraki Metro station and crossing the square I was half expecting that this narrow street nestling below the Acropolis hill would be full of tourist tat.

Read more: Psiri Athens – a neighbourhood guide – street art and nightlife

Artisan shops in Pandrossou Street

Instead I found charming family businesses that were full of character, displaying Greek crafts and artisan goods. I stopped to watch the lady hand painting gorgeous vases at Pagani and stepped inside to find a treasure trove of painted gifts from all over Greece.

Further along the street the shops were putting on demonstrations of their crafts, a shoemaker tooling traditional leather sandles that a fashionable Ancient Greek lady might have coveted and the bouzouki maker at the Pegasus musical instrument workshop.

I tried a real Greek coffee outside the Mikro cafe, strong and sweet just how I like it, but beware drinking it down to the last drop or you’ll end up with coffee sludge between your teeth.

Read more: The best things to do in Athens for culture lovers

Bouzouki Dancing in Athens

At the end of the street the bouzouki band were playing all the old favourites, those foot tapping, shoulder swaying tunes that demand to be danced to. Since my sister lives on the Greek island of Zakynthos, I’ve had the pleasure and fun of the Greek night that she puts on in her hotel each week for guests, and all the songs were familiar to me.

This is the music of festivals and wedding celebrations, enjoyed by every age from the trendy young things to their black clothed grandmothers. Believe me when the band strikes up, the Greeks don’t need much excuse for a dance!

I’d like to say that I joined the circle of dancers, a mixture of locals and bloggers and danced the night away in the streets of Athens, but was too busy recording the music on video for you dear reader (please watch it below). 

Come visit Athens!

“We invite you all to be Athenians” the major had told us, and on our final night in Athens, listening to the familiar songs we took that message to heart. “Come to Greece” was the message, “come enjoy our ancient culture and our modern spirit, come enjoy the sunshine and the music and the people”. 

Enjoy a glass of wine with new friends, come eat our traditional dishes reinvented in new ways, come feel the warmth and spirit of Athens and Greece. Come back and visit us again soon.

I hope you enjoy the video below of Bouzouki music in Pandrossou Street Athens

If you can’t see the video above of Greek Bouzouki music in Athens, see it on my blog here or Youtube here and please do subscribe to my channel.

Click here for direct download of video

Read Next

If you’d like to explore accommodations in Athens, read my review of Electra Palace Hotel: classic, elegant, close to the Acropolis