A pilgrimage to see the Black Madonna at Altötting in Germany

During our visit to Bavaria to see the Oberammergau Passion Play we spent a couple of nights at the pilgrimage town of Altötting, an hour or so’s drive east of Munich. I’ve heard that the town is the German equivalent of Lourdes in its importance as a site of pilgrimage.

Over the three days of Pentecost 30,000 people converge on the town for a candle-lit procession around the town square. Altötting was somewhat quieter during our stay and was a very pleasant, picturesque and relaxing place to stay for a couple of days.

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We stayed at Hotel Zur Post, Altötting, right on the main square. First we tried some Bavarian specialities for lunch in the cafes around the square. Later we wandered round to get our bearings.

We didn’t spend too much time that afternoon looking around the many churches as we knew that we would be having a guided walking tour of the town on the next morning.

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The Chapel of Mercy in Altötting

The heart of the town is the small Chapel of Mercy at one end of the town square. It houses the shrine to the Black Madonna. There’s a small black statue of the Madonna and baby Jesus, clothed in richly embroidered robes.

The Black Madonna is believed to have granted many miracles. The legend apparently originated in the 15th century when a young child who had drowned nearby was brought before the altar by his desperate mother. The mother’s prayers to the Madonna were answered and the child was revived.

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There is an ambulatory or covered walkway around the exterior of the chapel. Every inch of the walls and roof are covered by small pictures depicting the miracles experienced by those who have offered their prayers there. All with the phrase Maria Hat Geholfen (Maria has helped).

You can even see a collection of crutches and leg braces that have been discarded by those who have been cured of their ailments. There are also wooden crosses available in the covered walkway of the chapel. The custom is for the faithful to carry a cross three times around the perimeter while praying to the Madonna for forgiveness from their sins.

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The Black Madonna at Altötting

The interior of the chapel is painted black, the colour once created from the soot of the many candles. Now the colour is perpetuated in the painted walls.

In front of the altar are a couple of large solid silver statues. Tne on the right was commissioned by Emperor Karl Albrecht after his son recovered from a fatal illness. It is comprised of 41 pounds of silver, the same weight as his son.

Explore more of the region on this day-trip to the splendid castles of Neuschwanstein and Linderhof, lunch in Hohenschwangau, and through the little town of Oberammergau

Opposite kneels the silver statue of Saint Conrad of Parzham. He was the sexton of the St Anna’s Capuchin monastery and is buried in St Conrad’s church.

Within the inner part of the shrine, the dark walls are covered by silver ornaments. From the ceiling hang silver caskets, containing the hearts of the Kings of Bavaria from the Wittelsbach dynasty, starting with Elector Maximilian I, interred here after their death.

For this reason and because of the geographical position and religious significance of the town, Altötting was called the ‘Heart of Bavaria’ by Pope Benedict XVI. Benedict XVI was born nearby in the town of Marktl and has a close connection to Altötting.

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Our tour of Altötting

After starting our tour beside the shrine, we followed our guide around the many churches of the town. These have been built over the centuries to house all the pilgrims coming there.

I was reminded how worthwhile it can be to hire a local guide. We were regaled with little stories and anecdotes that brought the town to life for us.

After the 30 years war ended in 1670 the townspeople decided to make the current large open square. We learned how there were originally plans to build a larger dome over the small chapel. Foundations were marked out by the hedges around the chapel. But, the money ran out so the chapel was left unchanged and a larger church later built in 1876 alongside the chapel.

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Our guide pointed out the metal cockerel on top of the steeple. It was placed there to remind of what Jesus had said to Peter that ‘before the cock crows you will have betrayed me three times’. If you wish to light a candle, you do so at the small kiosk near the front of the chapel as candles are not allowed inside for fear of fire.

Church of St Philip and Jacob in Altötting

We next visited the church of St Philip and Jacob. Our guide pointed out that the ornate and brightly coloured statues of the saints were not made of plaster. Traditionally they are carved from wood and then coloured with a lacquered finish.

At the back of the church was the much photographed Tod von Eding clock with the statue of the Grim Reaper on top, swinging slowly from side to side. It was put there to remind everyone of the number of people who had died from plague and during the 30 year war (1618-1648).

As an altar boy, it was our guide’s responsibility to wind up the dropping movement that powered the clock before it was converted to electricity.

In the basilica we paused in front of a group of small photos of men from the town who had been killed during the second world war. Our guide told us how he had six brothers, three of whom had been killed in the war – ‘Crazy War’ was all he said.

Church of St Conrad in Altötting

I particularly liked the interior of the church of St Conrad, part of the monastery where Saint Conrad of Parzham was a Capuchin friar. He died in 1894 and was beatified in 1934.

In contrast to the other ornate churches this one was much more simple. In the base of the altar, the remains of the saint were interred in a life size metal statue, with his skull on display.

We could see the small room where the Saint had slept as a doorkeeper at the church. Outside was a water fountain coming from a statue of the Saint. We wondered at the steady stream of people coming to fill their water bottles, we were told that the water was considered holy, as it flowed over the finger bone, in a casket, of the saint himself.

The visit of Pope John Paul II to Altötting

Just outside the church of St Conrad, our guide pointed out a small tree, now known as the Pope’s Linden tree. The tree was planted by Pope John Paul II on his visit to Altötting in 1980.

Our guide told us how there was originally no time in the schedule for the Pope to stop outside the church and ‘throw a couple of shovels of mud’ over the tree. But somehow he had found someone who spoke Polish to have a quiet word with the Pope who had agreed to stop and plant the tree.

As the guide showed us a photo of him meeting the pope and the rosary that he had been given by Pope John Paul II, a number of people instinctively reached out to touch the blessed rosary that had been touched by the Pope.

And so, with many other little interesting stories our tour passed around all the many churches of Altötting.

Explore more of the region on this day-trip to the splendid castles of Neuschwanstein and Linderhof, lunch in Hohenschwangau, and through the little town of Oberammergau

The Jerusalem Panorama at Altötting

At the end of our tour, we took an optional visit to the Jerusalem Panorama at Altötting. This panoramic painting sits on the curved walls of the large, dome shaped room. It depicts the city of Jerusalem at the time of Jesus’s death with different scenes from the Crucifixion around the walls.

As you stood in the centre, as if looking from a viewpoint at the countryside around, the audio-guide told the story of the scenes being viewed. The Panorama art form became very popular in the 19th century.

This example, painted by Professor Gebhard Fugel in 1903 is one of the few remaining in Europe. It made an interesting addition to our pilgrimage tour of the town.

Walking and cycling around Altötting

There are a number of walking and cycling trails through the area surrounding Altötting. The Benedict Route takes cyclists 248 km around towns that are significant from the Pope Benedict XVI’s childhood and youth.

The town would also be well worth visiting in the Advent and Christmas period with a Christmas market on the chapel square and many advent concerts in the churches.

More articles about our visit to Altötting from this trip to Bavaria

Hotels in Altötting – Review of Hotel Zur Post
Bavarian Lake swimming in the Badesee near Altötting
Delicious Bavarian Food – Wiener Schnitzel and cherries

More articles about Oberammergau and the Passion Play

Tips for seeing the Oberammergau Passion Play
Painted houses and wood carving at Oberammergau – in Bavaria, Germany
An introduction to the Oberammergau Passion Play
Podcast: The Oberammergau Passion Play and visit to Altotting

Hotels in Altötting

Here are some hotels in Altotting that we recommend.

Hotel Zur Post – This historic 4-star hotel is set on the famous Kapellplatz square and features 5 stylish restaurants.

Hotel Muencher Hof –  Located on Kapellplatz Square within a mansion-style building dating from 1681, offering stylish rooms and a traditional Bavarian restaurant.

Bavaria Lifestyle Hotel – Rooms offer one of 36 different types of sauna, including salt, aromatic, light, steam and Turkish baths. Massages can be booked and there is also an 59 foot swimming pool.

Altötting – Visitor Resources

More information to plan your trip is available on the Altötting official tourism website

Visit the Jerusalem Panorama in Altötting website

Oberammergau Passion Play – Visitor Resources

To plan your visit to Oberammergau check out the official Oberammergau Passion Play Passionsspiele website and the Oberammergau official tourism website

You can also get ideas for visiting Germany on the Germany Travel official tourism website and on the Bavaria tourism website.

Our 5 day tour to the Oberammergau Passion Play and other places in the region was booked with Pax Travel who organise holidays to many other pilgrimage destinations.

Looking for a guide to the Oberammergau passion play? We recommend The Pilgrim’s Guide to Oberammergau. If you need a guidebook for visiting Germany we recommend the DK Eyewitness Germany Travel Guide or the Lonely Planet Germany Travel Guide.

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Photo credits: All by Heather Cowper except photo of the interior of the Chapel of Mercy from the Altötting official tourism website

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com

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