Christmas in Malaga is a time when the city is buzzing with festive atmosphere. The pedestrianised streets of the historic centre are strung with sparkling Christmas lights. Restaurants are full to bursting as friends gather for an al fresco lunch or dinner, enjoying the mild temperatures and sunny days. Discover a different kind of Christmas experience in Malaga, with free light shows, sweet Turon and sardines on the beach.
Here are our 10 festive reasons why you should consider visiting Malaga at Christmas time.
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10 festive things to do in Malaga at Christmas
- View the Christmas lights – especially the free daily light show on Calle Larios
- The Cathedral light show – free light show with music and video projections on the cathedral tower
- Botanical Garden light trail – a magical light trail through the Botanical Gardens
- Festival of lanterns – a trail of colourful Chinese lanterns in Parque del Oeste
- Nativity scenes or Belénes – on display in churches and public buildings around Malaga
- Christmas markets – two big markets in Malaga, with smaller markets throughout December
- Christmas shopping – there’s a huge range of shopping for elegant outfits and gifts to take home
- Christmas feasting and eating out – discover Malaga’s Christmas food specialties and eat out in the many excellent restaurants.
- Eating Sardines on the beach – enjoy an al fresco lunch in one of the Chiringuitos that line the beach.
- Sightseeing in the sunshine – there’s so much to see with generally mild and sunny weather in December.
1. The Christmas lights in Malaga
If you are used to the Christmas markets of Germany and Austria, you might need to reset your expectations when visiting Malaga at Christmas. With the weather balmy rather than snowy, in Spain the focus is less on markets and more on Christmas lights and light shows in public spaces, that you can enjoy while socialising outdoors.
Every street seems to have a different set of colourful Christmas lights, with the most impressive being on the main shopping boulevard of Calle Larios.
Christmas lights in Malaga generally go up around the last weekend of November, being taken down after 6 January when the Three King’s parade marks the end of festivities.
Each evening, the lights are turned on throughout the city promptly at 6pm, leading to a collective Ahhh… moment in Malaga.
On Calle Marques de Larios, the lights sparkle silver and gold on pillars, with angels hovering overhead. The boulevard hosts a popular daily light show at 6.30pm, 8pm and 10pm, with lights turning on and off in time to a sound track of festive music.
Make sure you see the (completely free) light show on Calle Marques de Larios when visiting Malaga, although be aware that at weekends it can be very crowded.
2. The Malaga Cathedral light show
Almost more impressive than the Calle Larios light show, is the one on Malaga Cathedral. The video-mapping sound and light show is projected on the facade of the cathedral’s bell tower, and can be viewed from the square of Calle de Molina Lario.
The light show takes place three times each evening at 7.30pm, 8.30pm and 10pm, with the timings making it easy to see it right after the Calle Larios light show.
When we visited, the Cathedral light show was on the theme of Manto de Estrellas (Mantle of stars). It included plenty of colourful and fun moments, with music, voiceover and cute cartoon like characters running up and down the facade.
Even though part of the show had voiceover in Spanish, it didn’t really matter for us English speakers, since the music and light projections didn’t need any translation.
3. Botanical Garden “Las Luces de la Concepcion” light trail
One of the best known and established light trails in Malaga is held each Christmas at the La Concepcion Botanical Gardens, located on the northern edge of Malaga.
After dark the botanical garden is transformed into a magical trail, meandering through different Christmas themed zones. From the Polar express train with its cheery engine driver to the slightly scary Grinch’s hideout in the bamboo thicket, we progressed up to the Christmas Mansion with a musical video light projection.
The Las Luces de la Conception light trail then took us up the hill through the candy cane grotto to a pavilion at the highest point of the park, where we could see the lights of Malaga city in the distance.
The “Lights of the Concepcion” trail at the Botanical Garden takes place between end of November and 6 January each year from 6.30pm – 10.30pm. It takes at least an hour to walk around the light trail and there are steps in a few places.
The cost of the timed tickets for adults was around €15.50. To ensure entry, these should be purchased online in advance, although if there’s availability they can also be purchased at the entrance.
Getting to the Botanical Garden light trail
The Botanical Garden is located a little outside the centre of Malaga, so you’ll need to find transport to get there. We were driven by a friend and used the paid car parking, which can be quite crowded on weekends.
In general it’s better to use the public transport options available to get to the Botanical Garden. The tourist bus makes a round trip from Malaga train station and historic centre to the Botanical Garden (cost €5) or take the EMT Line 2 bus to Ciudad Jardin, from where a free shuttle bus runs to the Botanical garden during the light show opening hours.
4. The Chinese lantern trail
We really enjoyed our visit to the Festival of Lanterns (Festival de las Linternas) in Malaga, located in a park that’s a little to the west of Malaga centre. The light trail has 600 Chinese style lanterns arranged in colourful groups on the grassy areas of the park.
Although you can’t touch the lanterns, you can get close enough to see all the details of lantern groups, ranging from pandas and snakes, to mushrooms and exotic flowers.
In the centre of the park is a lake with an enormous Chinese dragon, reflecting pretty colours in the water. There’s a soundscape of music to accompany each section of the light displays, changing as you move through the trail.
At the furthest end of the lake from the entrance was an area of food kiosks and a small stage, where we watched a show of Chinese circus performers and acrobats. The stage shows are held at 6pm, 7.15pm, 8.30pm and 9.45pm.
However, other than the stage performances, the lantern displays are static and you have to walk around to see them. Paths are flat, so the whole show is pushchair and wheelchair friendly.
You can book tickets for the Festival of Lanterns online, although we just paid at the entrance on Calle Francisco de Cossío. Tickets start from €15 weekdays and €20 weekends. The festival runs from end of November until 12 February, which is longer than the other Malaga light shows, as it also covers the Chinese New Year.
Getting to the Festival of Lanterns
The Chinese lantern festival is located in Parque del Oeste to the west of Malaga city centre and you can easily get there by public transport. Take Metro Line 2 to the La Luz-La Paz station and then walk 15 minutes to the festival entrance on Calle Francisco de Cossío. Alternatively EMT bus lines 7 and 15 stop 400 metres from the park entrance.
5. Visit the Nativity scenes or Belénes
Aside from the light shows in Malaga, a big part of Christmas in Malaga is the nativity scenes or Belénes on display around the city. These displays can be found in around 70 locations, such as churches, museums and other public places, the idea being that you pop in to have a look as you walk around Malaga.
The huge range of figures on display in the Belénes show not only scenes from the birth and early life of Jesus, but also street scenes, markets, house interiors and water features. They are a Spanish version of what daily life might have been like at the time of Jesus’s birth.
There are published maps of all the Belénes in Malaga provided by the City Hall, so you can easily locate them as you walk around the city. To find the latest year’s map just search online or ask at the Malaga Tourist Information.
Our favourite Belénes
Malaga Cathedral – this is one of the best known and at certain times there might be a queue. It’s a really long Belénes that you file past, with lots of details to look at.
Patio del Ayuntamiento – the Town Hall facing Paseo del Parque. Don’t be put off by the security checks, there are clear signs to direct you inside to the Belénes and it’s considered one of the best.
Museo Carmen Thyssen – this was a charming smaller nativity scene in the courtyard of the museum, you can enter to see it without paying if you ask at the desk.
Malaga Glass and Crystal Museum – although it’s a bit out of the way, the Belénes is particularly nice, set in the mansion’s courtyard and made of Lladro porcelain figures.
Cofradia de Estudiantes – this is located near the Roman Amphitheatre and we enjoyed walking around the Belénes as well as looking at the huge float that is used in the Easter parades.
Malaga Museum – If you walk through the courtyard of the museum, there was an exhibition of smaller Belénes from Malaga, and one that featured the city’s landmark lighthouse.
Should you wish to buy your own nativity figures to make a scene at home, they are often on sale in the Christmas market on Paseo del Parque, or there’s a permanent shop selling them called Nazareno de Malaga (Calle Carreteria 2).
6. Christmas markets in Malaga
Don’t come to Spain expecting the kind of Christmas markets that you find in Germany and Austria. Indeed, I’d say that Christmas Markets in Malaga are less of an attraction, compared to the Christmas light displays and feasting al fresco with friends.
Nevertheless there are a couple of markets that run through December and until the Feast of 3 Kings (6 January).
Paseo del Parque – the biggest Christmas market in Malaga, close to the historic centre, with a long row of around 90 stalls selling gifts and crafts.
Malaga Port / Muelle Uno – a long row of stalls on the promenade that runs parallel with the Park, and another cluster of stalls near the Pompidou Centre. These stalls are here all year round, but take on a more seasonal flavour in December.
I found both of these markets somewhat uninspiring, with a commercial feel and only a sprinkling of authentic local craft stalls. One exception is the stalls we saw selling nativity figures, which are a big feature of Christmas in Malaga, as people display nativity scenes in their homes and churches.
If you’d like to buy figures to make your own Christmas nativity scene (every year we put out the one we bought at a craft market years ago), this would be a good place to look for one.
In addition you may find smaller craft markets being held on certain weekends before Christmas. We heard about one-off Christmas fairs in Plaza de la Merced, Calle Tomas Heredia in Soho and the English Cemetery, but didn’t manage to be there on the right days.
Sabor a Malaga
This 6 day outdoor food market is held in the first or second week of December on Paseo del Parque, and unfortunately we just missed it. Expect to find stalls that showcase the best produce from Malaga and the surrounding regions, such as cheese, charcuterie, wine, honey and olive oil. More information on the Sabor a Malaga website.
7. Christmas shopping in Malaga
While I prefer to spend my holiday money on experiences rather than shopping, I have to confess I did enjoy looking around the shops in Malaga. As the capital city of the Malaga region, there’s a huge range of high street and independent shops in the pedestrianised Old Centre.
Spanish women enjoy dressing up when they go out and there’s plenty of choice and quality if you are looking for an elegant outfit that you might not find at home. There’s something about shopping in beautiful and traffic free surroundings, that makes it more of a pleasure to browse for fashion.
Calle Larios is where you’ll find some major upscale brands and the streets on either side also have a wide range of fashion stores. Across the river in the newer part of town, El Corte Ingles stocks a huge range of Spanish and international fashion brands.
If you want to find some smaller and uniquely Malaga items for Christmas gifts, you might find them in the Museo Carmen Thyssen shop or the Temporanea Concept Shop, which sells artisan souvenirs from Malaga.
8. Christmas food and eating out in Malaga
One of the joys of Malaga at Christmas is the festive atmosphere from packed bars and restaurants in the old town, where the weather is normally mild enough for people to sit outside in the covered restaurant terraces.
Sweet treats in Malaga at Christmas
Turon is an almond based soft nougat that’s a speciality of Malaga and an indispensable part of the Christmas festivities. There are numerous shops selling it, but the most authentic and best is considered to be Casa Mira, which has branches on Calle Larios and Calle Cister near the cathedral.
Both these branches sell their own ice cream, and I can vouch that the Turon flavour ice cream is particularly delicious! While Turon is sold all year round, there are some other sweet treats that are just for the Christmas season.
More traditional sweets in Malaga
- Mantecados – round shortbread cookies that come in different flavours individually wrapped in a paper twist.
- Polvorones – similar to Matecados, a small crumbly shortbread cookie that’s dusted with sugar.
- Borrachuelos– a deep fried pastry filled with a fruit or pumpkin puree, served as a desert around Christmas time.
- Roscos de Vino – a small ring shaped donut that’s cooked in wine then dusted with sugar.
- Roscón de Reyes – a ring cake filled with cream that’s served for the feast of the Three Kings on 6 January.
Roasted chestnut stalls also pop up in the streets around Christmas time, with the chestnuts roasted over an open brazier, then served peeled ready to eat in a cone of paper.
Al fresco feasting in Malaga
One of the lovely things about Malaga in the run up to Christmas, is that the generally mild weather allows plenty of al fresco dining. At lunchtime, when the sun is out, the restaurant terraces are packed with friends enjoying a meal out together.
Dining out in Spain is more affordable than many parts of Europe, and the atmosphere of locals gathering for a lunch with family or work colleagues is very festive.
Just bear in mind that at weekends or for larger groups you may need to reserve a table, or otherwise ask if you can be seated at the bar until space becomes available.
This is the time to take advantage of Malaga’s excellent and affordable seafood, which is considered a big part of the Christmas feasting in Spain.
There are endless bars and restaurants in Malaga, so I’d hesitate to recommend any particular ones. Instead I’d suggest that you meander around the pedestrianised Old Town, looking for some of the quieter side streets that are a few blocks from the Cathedral and Plaza de la Constitucion.
Here you’re more likely to find the restaurants that locals favour because the food is excellent and the prices more moderate. If you push me I’ll mention a few that looked nice or were recommended by our friends who are Malaga locals.
Recommended restaurants in Malaga
El Cenachero Centro (Calle Compania 16) – busy and atmospheric seafood restaurant on three floors close to the Carmen Thyssen Museum.
Carmen Thyssen Museum Cafe (Calle Compania 10) – if you are looking for a quiet spot for lunch, this museum cafe serves a good value Menu del Dia at lunchtime.
O Mamma Mia (Plaza de las Flores 7) – a family run Italian pizza & pasta restaurant in a central but quiet square with outdoor terrace, a good bet if you need somewhere that’s family friendly.
L’Experience (Plaza Obispo 4 ) – While you are in prime tourist territory, there’s something magical about this tapas restaurant’s terrace overlooking the cathedral. There are plenty more nice looking restaurants in the streets around the Cathedral.
If like me you are picky about your barista style coffee, head to Next Level Coffee (Calle San Juan 27) or Syra Coffee – takeaway only ( Calle Martires 13).
Casa Mira (Calle Cister 8) – This Malaga institution serving ice cream, sweets and turon has several locations, but the one near the cathedral is especially nice and has a few tables outside for coffee or ice cream.
Markets and foodie souvenirs in Malaga
While we were keen to enjoy Malaga’s buzzing restaurant scene, we enjoyed a walk around the covered Atarazanas Market in the centre of Malaga. It’s a feast for the eyes with colourful displays of fruit and veg, where you can get a sense for what’s fresh and in season.
The market is also a good place if you want to shop for some Spanish foodie souvenirs. Look out for finely sliced jamon, which is sold in sealed packets to take any home for your own Christmas table.
Another excellent place for upscale food shopping is the food hall on the Lower Ground floor of El Corte Ingles. Because it’s a supermarket that has extra deli and specialty food counters, this a good place for a no-pressure wander, although it’s a bit of a walk from the main tourist centre of Malaga.
9. Sardines on the beach in Malaga
The Chiringuito or beach restaurants are a classic fixture on the beaches of southern Spain. But the good news is that this sand-in-the-toes seafood experience is not just reserved for the summer months.
Even in December we found it warm enough to sit on the semi-covered terrace of Chiringuito Tropicana overlooking Malagueta beach for lunch. There are several Chiringuitos set on the sand or beach promenade of Malaga beach, so take your pick of what looks busy and open.
Unfortunately the beach was not looking its very best when we were there. During our lunch, the bulldozers drove up and down, cleaning and moving sand around after the autumn’s heavy rainstorms. But we still had a grandstand sea view and plenty of fresh air, as we soaked up the warm sun on our face.
The chiringuitos specialise in seafood, but they are pretty relaxed if you just want to order a few light dishes. We tried the local specialty of sardines, grilled over charcoal in an old wooden boat beside the restaurant. I also ordered a bowl of warming Sopa de marisco (seafood soup), full of flavour with chunks of fish, clams and prawns.
It’s one of the joys of the Malaga’s mild climate, that even in December, you can sit by the sea enjoying freshly grilled sardines!
10. Glorious weather for sightseeing
While I can’t guarantee the weather, the climate of Malaga is generally mild into December, often with clear blue skies and temperatures up to 18 degrees celcius on sunny days. That makes ideal weather for sightseeing, although there’s also plenty to do in Malaga if it rains.
Fine weather sightseeing in Malaga
If the weather is good you can enjoy outdoor activities like:
- Stroll around the port area, past shops and restaurants on Muelle Uno, to La Farola Lighthouse, then round the point onto Malaga’s main beach where you can stop in a Chiringuito for refreshments.
- Visit the Alcazaba, the beautiful Moorish fortress on the hill, with fountains and courtyard gardens. You can take this guided tour including tickets.
- Stroll through the Jardines de Pedro Luis Alonso filled with trees laden with bitter oranges fruiting around Christmas. Then walk up the hill to the Gibralfaro castle, with lovely views on the way.
- Visit the remains of the Roman Theatre, with its small museum to explain about its history.
Indoor sightseeing in Malaga
If the weather is too cold or rainy, there are still plenty of indoor highlights.
- Picasso Museum – 200 works by Pablo Picasso, who was born in Malaga, set in a 16th century Palace. Buy your tickets here.
- Carmen Thyssen Museum – a beautiful art museum set in a 16th century palace, with art from the old masters to impressionists and early 20th century Spanish artists. The museum shop is a good place for gifts.
- Malaga Museum – set in an 18th century palace that was once Malaga’s Customs House, now an art and history museum to give you insights in Malaga’s past.
- Malaga Glass and Crystal Museum – a collection of glass and ceramics set in a charming 1700s mansion.
- The Hammam Arab Baths – Enjoy the modern Spa experience in a traditional Arab style Hammam, with hot and cold baths, steam rooms, massage and treatments.
Where to stay in Malaga for your Christmas break
If visiting Malaga in winter, we recommend you stay in the central area, close to all the Christmas activities. However as there are many bars and restaurants in this area, just check what is around your accommodation, and read the reviews to avoid places mentioning street noise.
Luxury – Palacio Solecio – a small luxury hotel in the heart of Malaga’s historic centre.
Mid-range – AC Hotel Malaga Palacio by Marriott – a smart modern hotel that’s well located in Malaga’s central area. Also the Christmas decorations were impressive!
Budget – Ibis Malaga Centro Ciudad – a modern budget hotel on the edge of the historic area.
2 bedroom apartment – You Trip Malaga – this 2 bedroom apartment owned by our friend (where we stayed) is clean and modern, just a 10 minute walk from the historic centre.
The Three Kings Parade in Malaga
The feast of the Three Kings on 6 January is a big event in Malaga. Through the city centre there’s a procession of floats with each of the three kings on a separate float, surrounded by their courtiers. This is the last day of the Christmas festivities and after 6 January the Christmas lights are turned off and taken down.
Public holidays over Christmas in Malaga
If you are visiting Malaga over the Christmas period, be aware that 25 December, 1 January, 6 January (Feast of the 3 Kings) are public holidays. On these days all shops and visitor attractions will be closed, with many shops closing early the day before a public holiday. Light shows don’t take place on 24 December and 31 December.
Bars and restaurants are also generally closed, so if not visiting friends and family, you should make sure that you have stocked up on everything you need for your festivities. Some larger restaurants may be open, but you will need to have reserved these in advance.
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This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com
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