Tour de Mont Blanc – Day 10 & 11 – Courmayeur to Chapieux

Here we go again on the Tour de Mont Blanc! This was the fourth (and we hoped the final) year that my friend and I were back in the Alps, walking a section of the Tour de Mont Blanc. The TMB is one of the great mountain hikes of the world, spending 10-12 days on a circular route around the Mont Blanc Massif through France, Switzerland and Italy.

Read about our previous section of the walk: Tour de Mont Blanc – Day 9 – Rifugio Bonatti to Courmayeur

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We’d really enjoyed our walks in previous years, with bright sunny days and glorious mountain views. The final leg in early September would take us from Courmayeur in Italy where we finished last year, around to Les Houches in the Chamonix valley where we’d started 3 years earlier.

We had mixed feelings as we set off from our hotel in Courmayeur. It was exciting to be back in the mountains with the forecast for sunshine, but a relief that our Tour de Mont Blanc would finally be complete this year.

Day 10 – Courmayeur to Rifugio Elisabetta

The day’s walk took us out of the Courmayeur valley, up through the pretty hamlet of Dolonne. The dry dusty path zig-zagged up through forest, finally following the line of the cable car up the mountain.

After the first cable car station at Plan Checrouit, the vista opened up and forest gave way to open meadow, with a scattering of chalets.

Further up the hill we passed the second cable car station at Col Checrouit. Coming over the crest the Refuge Vielle Maison came into view, set in a bowl between one valley and the next, known as the Fauteuil des Allemands (the German armchair).

The path now rose again behind the Refuge until we found ourselves on a long balcony path along the Val Veni. Mountain peaks loomed on our right across the valley, rising finally to Mont Favre, the highest point of the day’s walk at 2430m.

From here it was downhill through meadows and beside a rushing stream down to the milky blue Lac Combal. We followed a flat, marshy valley until finally the path rose again up to Rifugio Elisabetta at 2195m.

Highlights of Day 10 – Courmayeur to Rifugio Elisabetta

• We enjoyed our night in Courmayeur at the very comfortable and elegant Hotel Villa Novecento, beautifully furnished in traditional Alpine style with plenty of antiques and interesting local objects.

• We witnessed what we thought was a helicopter rescue below Plan Checrouit, as mountain rescue teams abseiled down from a helicopter onto cable cars. Although it looked like they could be shooting a James Bond movie, we concluded that it was just a practice for the coming winter season.

• We enjoyed the very welcome drink at the jolly Refuge Vielle Maison. It appeared suddenly as we came over the crest, like a mirage, with flags flying and cheerful red and yellow sun umbrellas and deck chairs.

Read my article on what to wear for the Tour de Mont Blanc.

• The easy, undulating balcony path of the Val Veni with wonderful views of the mountain peaks and hanging glaciers, where we found a great picnic spot near one of the small green lakes.

• The final walk of the day along a pleasant, flat path through the beautiful but deserted valley of Vallon de la Lee Blanche. Streams and lakes run through it but we saw virtually no habitation as we headed for Rifugio Elisabetta.

Lowlights of Day 10 – Courmayeur to Rifugio Elisabetta

• Climbing up the dry, dusty path through forest from Dolonne, the reverse of what we had experienced coming down to Courmayeur last year. Hours of climbing but only glimpses of mountains through the trees.

• The relentless climb to the high point of Mont Favre at 2430, with endless false crest after false crest to trick you into thinking you’re nearly there. Luckily all the French walkers coming down from the peak were very encouraging and everyone we passed told us “you’re nearly there!”

• The sinking feeling as we reached the valley at Lac Combal at the end of the day and realised we had at least another hour to walk to Rifugio Elisabetta, when we were quite ready to stop for the day and enjoy a cold beer.

• The final climb up to Rifugio Elisabetta at the end of a very long day nearly finished us off and we only arrived just before dinner at 7pm, having been on the path for over 10 hours.

Day 11 – Rifugio Elisabetta to Chapieux

The path took us just below Rifugio Elisabetta and past the ruins of the old military barracks. It then followed a level track along the Vallon de la Lée Blanche.

Gradually we climbed uphill past the Casermetta information centre and up to the Col de la Seigne. This yielded fabulous panoramic views at 2500m.

Over the pass we now crossed the border from Italy into France. We descended on endless winding grassy paths to the bottom of the Vallée des Glaciers. Here we stopped for a picnic lunch at Refuge de Mottets.

Now it was across the river, through the hamlet of Ville des Glaciers. Then along the small road above the river for an hour or more until we reached the village of Chapieux at the other end of the valley.

We were thankful that we’d chosen to shorten the route outlined in the Cicerone Trekking the Tour du Mont Blanc guidebook. It would have taken us on a further arduous climb up to Refuge Bonhomme. Instead we had a pleasant afternoon sitting in the sunny garden of the Auberge de la Nova, where we spent the night.

I hope you enjoy this short panorama video I made at Col de La Seigne

If you can’t see the video of Col de la Seigne above, view it on my blog here or on YouTube here

Highlights of Day 11 – Rifugio Elisabetta to Chapieux

• The walk from Rifugio Elisabetta took us past the Casermetta information centre. It is housed in the old Italian border post that has now been restored. We loved the view from the balcony with a board naming all the mountain peaks in view. There’s information inside about the history, flora and fauna of the area.

• The view from Col de la Seigne at 2500m with panoramic views. Down the valley towards Valon de la Lée Blanche on the Italian side. The end of Vallée des Glaciers in sight on the French side. We sat beside the rocky cairn at the peak in the sunshine and looked at all the peaks marked on the metal viewing table. This Col forms the border between Italy and France. It saw fierce fighting between the Alpiniste troops of both countries during the Second World War. It was wonderful to pass so freely and peacefully from one country to the next.

• A pleasant lunch at the picnic tables outside Refuge de Mottets. We enjoyed a view down the valley while a galloping white horse and farting donkey entertained us with their antics.

Lowlights of Day 11 – Rifugio Elisabetta to Chapieux

• The walk along the quiet road towards Chapieux was pleasant but unremarkable after the high mountain passes we’d come across. There’s a local bus that runs up and down the valley in July and August. It is worth taking to save your legs, unless you’re following the high route directly up towards Refuge de la Croix de Bonhomme.

• All along the Vallee des Glaciers I had no phone signal and Auberge de la Nova had no wifi. Perhaps some of you may relish the freedom of being out of touch with the world. As the owner at Auberge de la Nova put it, when I approached hopefully with my mobile in hand; “No Mobile, no Internet, Juste la Liberté!”

Resources for walking the Tour de Mont Blanc

We used the Cicerone Tour of Mont Blanc guide by Kev Reynolds. It’s an excellent guide for both the clockwise and anti-clockwise route. There’s a detailed route guide, maps, accommodation information and points of interest along the route.

On this part of the Tour de Mont Blanc we stopped at the following hotels and mountain refuges;

In Courmayeur we stayed at Hotel Villa Novecento. This beautifully decorated 4 star hotel features elegant, traditional furnishings and antiques. We paid for an en suite twin room with excellent breakfast and very friendly service.

Rifugio Elisabetta is one of the nicest and best run refuges, in an isolated position at 2200m. It has wifi but limited phone signal. You can pay per night for half board (dinner and breakfast) in a 2 bed private bunk room. Book by e-mail [email protected] or Telephone +39 0165 844080

In Chapieux we stayed at Auberge de la Nova, a friendly inn at one end of the valley at 1550m. They offer private and dorm rooms and a large restaurant and garden. You can purchase a half board (dinner and breakfast) in a 12 person dorm. Book by e-mail [email protected] or Telephone +33 (0)9 82 12 64 35.

Bookings for some refuges can also be made on the Mon Tour de Mont Blanc website. To avoid disappointment and a long walk, you should book your place in all refuges. You can normally do so a day or two before, or from the previous refuge.

The Autour du Mont Blanc website has useful information to help you plan your Tour de Mont Blanc walk.

How to get to Courmayeur

To reach Courmayeur, we flew to Geneva and took our pre-booked airport transfer to Chamonix with through Alpy Transfers. From Chamonix SNCF station there are bus service for the 45 minute journey through the Mont Blanc Tunnel to Courmayeur.

Read Next

Read about our next day’s hike: Tour de Mont Blanc – Day 12, 13 & 14 – Chapieux to Les Houches

More tales from the Tour de Mont Blanc

• Tour de Mont Blanc – Day 1 – Les Houches to Refuge la Bellachat
• Tour de Mont Blanc – Day 2 – Refuge de Bellachat to la Flegere
• Tour de Mont Blanc – Day 3 – Refuge Flégère to Lac Blanc
• Tour de Mont Blanc – Day 4 – Flégère to Refuge Col de Balme
• Tour de Mont Blanc – Day 5 – Col de Balme to Champex
• Tour de Mont Blanc – Day 6 – Champex Lac to Ferret
• Tour de Mont Blanc – Day 7 – Ferret to Rifugio Elena
• Tour de Mont Blanc – Day 8 – Rifugio Elena to Rifugio Bonatti
• Tour de Mont Blanc – Day 9 – Rifugio Bonatti to Courmayeur
• Tour de Mont Blanc – Day 10 & 11 – this article
• Tour de Mont Blanc – Day 12, 13 & 14 – Chapieux to Les Houches

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com

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